Blog Title: The Gold Digger
She takes my money when I'm in need 
Wire Tuck, Rust Repair, 2Gb Talon Conversion, etc.

Wire Tuck, Rust Repair, 2Gb Talon Conversion, etc.
My Wire Tuck and Engine Bay Clean Up Part 1
Posted 09-23-2011 at 02:16 PM by Blurred Talon
Over the past couple of days I removed all the loom and electrical tape from the OEM harness. This is a super messy job, went through a couple pairs of nitrile gloves.
First day, I got up to the DRL/High beam relay bracket done (that's what those relay rust things are). I'll likely be doing away with the bracket as it's pretty pointless and HUGE to mount two little things. I'm also looking into rewiring my DRLs.


Day 2, I got all the way up to the fuse box. You'll also see the pile of loom and tape that's come off so far.


Day 3 (today), I started by removing the bracket from the fuse box and then removing the bottom from it.

From there I finished up the forward chassis/fuse box harness.

Then I turned my attention to the engine harness, this one went by pretty quick in comparison. It's 95% done, I left the loom on somethings for now.

Pile of garbage.

Over the weekend I'm going to depin and remove the wires I no longer need. The list is:
Everything AC related.
Everything ABS related
Cruise Control
Fuel Pressure Solenoid
EGR Control Solenoid
Brake fluid level switch
Theft Alarm Horn
EVAP Solenoid
Front and rear O2 Sensors (I have a wideband and via ECM Link I can simulate narrow band functions)
Fog Lights
Oil Pressure Gauge (dash one, replaced by an aftermarket)
Hood Switch
MAF connector (leave the wires needed for IAT sensor for Speed Density)
Fuel Pump Check Connector
Engine Speed Detection Connector
Ignition Timing Check Connector
I'm also going to order the Deutsch HDT-48-00 crimper and some DT series connectors to start working on the harness itself. I'll be using a 12 pin connector to make a Fuel Injector harness, another connector will replace the wiper motor one, one of the fuse box (will be mounted where the passenger air bag was) and another to mount into the firewall.
First day, I got up to the DRL/High beam relay bracket done (that's what those relay rust things are). I'll likely be doing away with the bracket as it's pretty pointless and HUGE to mount two little things. I'm also looking into rewiring my DRLs.


Day 2, I got all the way up to the fuse box. You'll also see the pile of loom and tape that's come off so far.


Day 3 (today), I started by removing the bracket from the fuse box and then removing the bottom from it.

From there I finished up the forward chassis/fuse box harness.

Then I turned my attention to the engine harness, this one went by pretty quick in comparison. It's 95% done, I left the loom on somethings for now.

Pile of garbage.

Over the weekend I'm going to depin and remove the wires I no longer need. The list is:
Everything AC related.
Everything ABS related
Cruise Control
Fuel Pressure Solenoid
EGR Control Solenoid
Brake fluid level switch
Theft Alarm Horn
EVAP Solenoid
Front and rear O2 Sensors (I have a wideband and via ECM Link I can simulate narrow band functions)
Fog Lights
Oil Pressure Gauge (dash one, replaced by an aftermarket)
Hood Switch
MAF connector (leave the wires needed for IAT sensor for Speed Density)
Fuel Pump Check Connector
Engine Speed Detection Connector
Ignition Timing Check Connector
I'm also going to order the Deutsch HDT-48-00 crimper and some DT series connectors to start working on the harness itself. I'll be using a 12 pin connector to make a Fuel Injector harness, another connector will replace the wiper motor one, one of the fuse box (will be mounted where the passenger air bag was) and another to mount into the firewall.
Total Comments 43
Comments
-
Posted 09-23-2011 at 04:03 PM by airmail96
-
Posted 09-23-2011 at 04:47 PM by Blurred Talon
-
Good stuff man, I was going to take my hand at wire tuck/removal, I got as far as removing the wire harness from ecu to engine bay then waited a week and put it all back.Posted 09-23-2011 at 04:56 PM by 1995gstr
-
Posted 09-23-2011 at 08:08 PM by andyb2637
-
Posted 09-23-2011 at 09:06 PM by DSM_love_GST
-
Its pretty simple once you get down to it. It basically consists of removing the harness, peeling off the loom/tape/gunk and then removing the stuff you don't need.
You do need a few small pics and flat tip screw drivers, as well as a pair of good needle nose, and some tweezers to de-pin the connectors. Its rather hard to explain de-pinning. But if you look at the connectors, there is a color locking collar that holds the pins in place. You want to pry that out, then pry the pin catch forward while you push down on the pin.
Just make notes or take pictures as you take the harness apart.
I've found that it helps if you plan out how your going to route your wires with some rope or string.
I ran my #1 injector, #2 injector, crank/cam sensors, and noise ground together all the way to the other side of the intake manifold.
I ran my injector resistor seperate from everything.
I ran my #3, #4, coil pack, ignitor, ISC, and TPS together under the heater core lines and along the bottom of the manifold.
I ran my Coolant Temp Sender, Coolant Temp Sensor, o2, and knock sensor together underneath the shifter cables.
I ran my MAF, Reverse Light, and Fusebox connector together along the passenger frame rail.
The Coolant Bottle sensor is ran by itself. My coolant bottle is relocated to the firewall.
I ran the Firewall grounds bythemself. The wiper motor connector is by itself.
I looped my throttle cable underneath my manifold and deleted the cruise.
PM me if you have a specific question.Posted 09-23-2011 at 10:03 PM by Boostinsideways
-
I can't give a ton of info as I haven't done too much yet.
You MUST have the FSM Electrical book, get on eBay (where I got mine for $20 shipped for both books) and buy a set of FSMs for your year of DSM. They are so much better then any thing else.
I highly suggest you pull the dash out.
Start by labeling all your under hood connections. There's 2 harnesses in the engine bay the engine control harness and fuse box (front chassis) harness. Label every single connector.
This thread will help you figuring out what is what: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/arti...nnections.html
From there pull the engine harness. I disconnected all the plugs, then pulled the boot from the firewall (it's got 4 tabs that need to be pushed in, flat head comes in handy). Then move inside and unplug the ecu connections, MPFI relays and rear O2 sensor connection. You'll see 3 or 4 connectors that go to the dash, these need to be removed, I unbolted the dash bracket first. After all that is done the engine harness can come out.
Chassis harness, pop both fenders off. You'll see more of those boots, take them out. Driver side has 4-6 connectors inside the fender/cabin; passenger side has 2 plus the ABS stuff. Then just undo the wire clips and connectors to pull it out plus unbolt the fuse box.
When I start depinning stuff later today I will get some pictures of how to do it exactly. I've misplaced my jeweler's screw drivers and have to buy more.
Boostinsideways; Thanks! I've got some good plans in place already. My harness will be complete modular and similar to what turbosax2 and 16g-gsx have done with their cars. I'm going to be ordering the Deustch stuff by the end of the weekend.Posted 09-24-2011 at 08:03 AM by Blurred Talon
-
Posted 09-24-2011 at 01:41 PM by Blurred Talon
-
Posted 09-24-2011 at 04:40 PM by TheMadCheshire
-
Posted 09-24-2011 at 09:08 PM by Blurred Talon
-
Blurred, its "Tank" from DSMP. If you have any specific questions or would like any photos of how I routed my connectors PM here or on DSMP.
I just did an engine bay tuck and relocated my fuse box to the trans mount. I do plan on Building a full on milspec harness in the future, but I had to figure out a solution for the rats nest of wires I had as the previous owner had ditched the intake manifold loom and I just a total clusterf#%k of wires.
I am planning out my milspec harness atm. But that will be further down the road. I need to get some DSM-link and fuel first. And then probably paint.
Really like how your going with your car. Seems like we both have a lot of similar interests in mods on our cars. I'm not really trying to build a 9 second quartermile warrior, or a roadcourse car. Just a really clean tastefully done 2gb Talon.Posted 09-24-2011 at 09:57 PM by Boostinsideways
-
Oh hey, I was wondering if you still planned on doing the Big single connector at the firewall? Any clue of how to pull that off?Posted 09-24-2011 at 10:00 PM by Boostinsideways
-
Here is a write up that was allready done. It is for a 1g, and its only the engine bay harness. But this is basically how I have my stuff routed.
[url]http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-electrical-wiring/364498-rerouting-engine-wiring-harness.html[/url]
I didn't even read this write up beforehand. It just seemed like the best way.Posted 09-24-2011 at 10:42 PM by Boostinsideways
-
Hey man. I will certainly PM you, I'm a while away from trying to fit things in/under the hood. I need to buy a manifold and my MAP and IAT sensors first.
I'd love to go mil spec but not on this shell, I'll wait till I have a cleaner one. I'm building the car for how I want it to be, doesn't need to be the fastest or best looking, I just have to like it.
As for the fire wall connector, I'm not 100% sure yet. I'm thinking of putting it behind the motor if I can find something to plug the OEM harness hole. I dunno if Mitsu lists a plug for it, I haven't found it yet in ASA. I'm wondering if something from a Honda might work but I need to know the size of our hole first. Could you maybe measure yours for me?Posted 09-25-2011 at 08:00 AM by Blurred Talon
-
Sure, I can pop the harness out pretty quickly. I modded the firewall plug for easy removal. I will get some measurements later on today.Posted 09-25-2011 at 01:30 PM by Boostinsideways
-
Posted 09-25-2011 at 02:08 PM by Blurred Talon
-
I started doing work on my fusebox/engine bay harness about a week ago. I have some pictures that show how to remove the pesky retainers in the back of the fuse box and also some pictures that will show how to de-pin all the connectors on that harness.
If you have any problems or think you might be interested in the pictures let me know.Posted 09-25-2011 at 04:09 PM by TRBOBLU
-
Thanks! I've had no trouble so far but I haven't touched the fuse box harness yet.
Did some more work on the harness over the weekend.
A set of picks works great for depinning the various connectors, these things only cost me $7 maybe.

I started by unpinning the Red/Blue wire and black wire from the MAF plug. These are for the MAFs IAT circuit, I will be using these for speed density. I still need to reroute it up around the injector harness.




I rerouted the Injector Resistor box connector to the interior.

Here's everything I removed; MAF connector, Fuel Pressure Solenoid, EGR Solenoid, Fuel Pump Check Connector, Ignition Timing Check Connector, Brake Fluid Switch, Theft Alarm Horn.

Posted 09-25-2011 at 04:42 PM by Blurred Talon
-
Nice gloves! Messing with these harnesses is nastier than working on a DSM with a bad oil leak. Some of the black crap that comes off I swear is permanent.
I will have to look into those tools. Where did you get them? I could actually see those being more useful than the small screw driver set for de-pinning.Posted 09-25-2011 at 04:47 PM by TRBOBLU
-
Posted 09-25-2011 at 05:15 PM by Blurred Talon
-
Blurred Talon. I bought my engine bay harness online and have one connector that I have not been able to identify easily. Since I do not have my car in front of me and it appears your harness is well labeled I was hoping you could help.
The connector is the 3 wire connector pictured(the smaller connector). It is right next to the main combination connector that connects the 2 main harnesses together. It is within 12-16 inches of the engine bay fuse box. Here are the pics.





Posted 09-25-2011 at 07:32 PM by TRBOBLU
-
Sorry to clutter up your post. I found the answer(Thanks Turbosax2). It is here if anyone else is curious.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newb...lay-broke.htmlPosted 09-25-2011 at 07:52 PM by TRBOBLU
-
Posted 09-26-2011 at 02:20 AM by Blurred Talon
-
You're f*****g slow Anthony ... Haha just kidding my friend ! Nice work so far.
Just for your information chek the dash harness for fun, I know your car is MT and the dash harness is the same for AT so you'll see that there are many wires there that are not even connected. Chek out the connector and match the wires. You can't believe how much wires I removed that way !
Posted 09-27-2011 at 10:51 AM by DSM4LIFE-AWD
-
, Pat!
I'm taking my sweet ass time with this and still have many many more things to order. Don't forget I'm adding many new systems into the harness too plus I want to do it all right the first time. Any wire that I lengthen I'm going to try and get of a matching color. Any new wire will be mil-spec, new connectors will be Deustsch.Posted 09-27-2011 at 01:52 PM by Blurred Talon
-
More updates, I've been slowly working on the harness over the past couple of days, I should have everything I want removed from all 3 harnesses (fuse box, engine and dash) by the end of this weekend.
From there I can plan out everything else, I want to have all my aftermarket accessories in the fuse box so I don't need the accessory fuse box anymore. I also need to figure out where to mount all the S2000 cluster stuff, I've got some ideas for that.
Anyhow, here's updates.
First, here's the wiring note book. I'm documenting everything.

Here's all the ABS junk, I can't believe how much wiring there was for it. One nice thing is it was all ran separate from the rest of the harness for the most part so it was pretty quick and easy to remove.

All the wiring that's been pulled so far.

Here's what I've pulled so far:
ABS
Fuel Pressure Solenoid
EGR Solenoid
Brake Level Switch
Theft Alarm Horn
EVAP Solenoid
Fuel Pump Check Connector
MAF Connector (let the IAT wires)
Ignition Timing Check Connector
O2 Sensors
What's left?
A/C
Cruise Control
Fog Lights
Oil Pressure Gauge
Hood Switch
ISC Motor
EGR Motor
Here's the fuse box so far. I've removed some of the relays (want to figure out how to get those to work for aftermarket stuff if possible), fusible links and fuses. Most of this stuff will be reused.

Posted 09-28-2011 at 02:28 PM by Blurred Talon
-
Posted 09-28-2011 at 03:21 PM by iugrad92turbo
-
My firewall hole is 3.5" Inches tall by 2.5" Inches wide.Posted 09-29-2011 at 11:19 AM by Boostinsideways
-
Posted 09-29-2011 at 01:45 PM by Blurred Talon
-
Posted 10-01-2011 at 07:53 AM by tkstoygsx
-
Man... wish i had the patience to do thisPosted 10-02-2011 at 11:14 PM by dadnkid
-
Posted 10-03-2011 at 09:48 AM by Blurred Talon
-
I've finally finished both engine and fuse box harnesses. Now, my tuck/rewire is a little different from other peoples. I pulled my Alternator plug out because I'll be doing the Saturn Alternator swap (and relocation) using the self exciting regulator that Motorcity Reman offers for the DSMs, this is a 1 wire hook up so I won't need any of the stock wiring. I've lost the battery light by doing this but I've got a volts gauge so it's not a big deal for me.
I'm also installing a Davies Craig Electric Water Pump (EWP115) and fan controller so all my OEM relays for the fans and the wiring has been removed.
Here's a comparison of how little wire is left after all this is remove. Bottom is the fuse box side of the plug, top is the engine harness side.

Chassis harness done (for now).

Amount of wire removed! (still need to do the dash harness)

Dash flipped over and ready to be taken apart. You see why I want to redo the dash harness, it looks HORRIBLE!

Now I know what plug (plugs) I will be using on the fuse box itself so I will get those ordered up then I can crimp them on and mount the fuse box plus figure out how secure the air bag door back on (I think dzus fasteners are the ticket). I've also got a lot of planning left to do for all the other things I want to incorporate into the fuse box.Posted 10-03-2011 at 02:47 PM by Blurred Talon
-
Posted 10-04-2011 at 02:18 PM by iugrad92turbo
-
Dash harness is out and all the tape is off for the most part (I left the dash speakers alone for now). I wanted to do more but I haven't slept much the past couple of days so I did some of that early and I'm doing more after I post this.
Here's the dash harness out, you can see the piece of lexan I mounted all the stuff for the S2000 cluster on. I HATE this now so it had to go. All the S2000 cluster converter as going to be behind the dash bezel now so when I need to access it, I pop the bezel out and bam it's there. There's also a lot of wiring for gauges, shift light blah blah blah, that's all going.

Most of the excess wiring removed.

Electrical tape removed.

Close up of the S2000 cluster wiring, like I said I'll be redoing things. I'm not happy with it one bit.

Fog light wiring and cruise wiring will be removed tomorrow plus I'm gonna see if I can get my hands on the block off plates for where the switches use to be. I'm also starting to work on my HID retro again and my LED lighting conversions (all lights on the car will be LED).Posted 10-04-2011 at 05:36 PM by Blurred Talon
-
Posted 10-06-2011 at 09:26 PM by gixrman
-
Posted 10-07-2011 at 02:35 AM by Blurred Talon
-
Posted 10-07-2011 at 10:21 AM by Blurred Talon
-
Posted 10-11-2011 at 02:06 AM by keltalon
-
looks like a lot of work but i'm sure its worth it!Posted 10-12-2011 at 06:57 PM by -Joe-
-
looks like a lot of work but i'm sure its worth it!Posted 10-12-2011 at 07:09 PM by -Joe-
-
Posted 10-27-2011 at 03:06 PM by banishedmunk
-
Posted 10-28-2011 at 02:46 AM by Blurred Talon












