Blog Title: The Gold Digger
She takes my money when I'm in need 
Wire Tuck, Rust Repair, 2Gb Talon Conversion, etc.
Wire Tuck, Rust Repair, 2Gb Talon Conversion, etc.
Rust Repair Part 5 (Final Part)
Posted 05-24-2011 at 05:37 AM by Blurred Talon
I decided to chop the spare tire well out of my car. It was rusty and crappy so it was time to go. I replaced it with a sheet of 1/8" thick aluminum.
Old rusty wheel well.
New aluminum floor in place, it's held in with self taping screws and sealed with silicone. I still need to clean it up and finish under coating the bottom (ran out of under coating with a small section left to spray still). I'm likely going to leave the aluminum bare on top because I like the look.
Next part that I moved on to scared me the most simply because I viewed it as a tough job. I was scared I was going to screw up my car. However I took my time, made a plan of attack and I'm pleased with the how it turned out.
My rusty lower rad support.
Chopped out and on the ground, you can see why I had to replace it.
Then I started to fit in the new piece.
Then I welded it in. I added some 1/8" flat bar on top of the other welds to add some support and give a bit more strength to the repair.
I also finished the passenger side rocker. I still ran out of seam sealer and need a bit more to finish it all up. I'll do that next time and remount both side skirts.
Lastly, I put the new hatch on the car. I still need to do some filler work on it and the front bumper then paint them but the end is within sight.
In another couple of weeks I'll go out and do the small mechanical stuff I need to do, paint the bumper and hatch and then she'll be ready to drive again.
Old rusty wheel well.
New aluminum floor in place, it's held in with self taping screws and sealed with silicone. I still need to clean it up and finish under coating the bottom (ran out of under coating with a small section left to spray still). I'm likely going to leave the aluminum bare on top because I like the look.
Next part that I moved on to scared me the most simply because I viewed it as a tough job. I was scared I was going to screw up my car. However I took my time, made a plan of attack and I'm pleased with the how it turned out.
My rusty lower rad support.
Chopped out and on the ground, you can see why I had to replace it.
Then I started to fit in the new piece.
Then I welded it in. I added some 1/8" flat bar on top of the other welds to add some support and give a bit more strength to the repair.
I also finished the passenger side rocker. I still ran out of seam sealer and need a bit more to finish it all up. I'll do that next time and remount both side skirts.
Lastly, I put the new hatch on the car. I still need to do some filler work on it and the front bumper then paint them but the end is within sight.
In another couple of weeks I'll go out and do the small mechanical stuff I need to do, paint the bumper and hatch and then she'll be ready to drive again.
Total Comments 13
Comments
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Looks good, keep up the good work.Posted 05-24-2011 at 07:23 AM by dsmtnr
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Nice work, restore her!!!Posted 05-24-2011 at 07:46 PM by DSMReviver
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Your car looks so damn clean in you avatar I honestly had no idea it had so many rust problems. Looks amazing now though.
Posted 05-24-2011 at 10:47 PM by Black Widow97
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Thanks guys!
Most of the rust was hidden so unless you knew it was there you never saw it.Posted 05-25-2011 at 02:46 AM by Blurred Talon
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You using a 115v or 230v welder? I'm hoping my radiator support beam isn't that bad, but if it's anything like some of the crap underneath my car, it's gonna be. Just add it to the strut towers I already have to do I guess, heh.
Good work btw.Posted 05-27-2011 at 04:32 PM by Xeiros
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Thanks.
Welder is a 115V, a 230V would burn through in no time. Even the 115V did after a couple tacks.Posted 05-27-2011 at 05:13 PM by Blurred Talon
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Ehh, it's all about the settings really. I can weld 2-3mm thick sheet metal at work with a 480v 3 phase welder, but thats because I've got settings out the ass to adjust the voltage and travel speed. But yeah, I get what you're saying. What thickness of metal are you using for replacement patches? I think I picked up some 14 gauge myself.Posted 05-28-2011 at 07:00 AM by Xeiros
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22ga, it's very close to the factory. It is about the settings though and on my Lincoln that thinnest it's rated to weld is 14ga IIRC.Posted 05-28-2011 at 07:15 AM by Blurred Talon
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Yeah I figured as much. Thats really the only con of cheaper welders IMO, is that you've got less control over the welding parameters. But when they run about $600 vs $1200-2000 you can't really bitch, heh. I purposely went with a bit thicker material myself so I could wash the heat of the gun against the thicker metal so there's less chance of burn thru. We'll see how that works out. Still need to go pick up a little Hobart welder and get it done before winter.Posted 05-28-2011 at 10:22 AM by Xeiros
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I honestly can't complain about my Lincoln, it's a couple years old (Mig Pak 10) but it's done everything I've thrown at it, even some 1/4" thick stuff when I made some cut out rockers on my old Jeep. (welding 1/4" to sheet metal is a PITA).Posted 05-29-2011 at 06:42 AM by Blurred Talon
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I guess it's easier than replacing an entire front rad support. Pretty sure you can still get a full front support from the dealer. I know someone tbat just got one last year. Also with that much rust, it wouldn't be easier to just get another roller? Even an RS with no rust and convert it. Good job for sure!Posted 05-30-2011 at 07:41 AM by Limegrntaln
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I could easily buy another roller but I'm still in school so I rather hang on to that money just in case. I'm done school next February but the car still has lots of life in it. In another couple of years I'll get another shell.
I got a pretty decent deal on the lower support (only piece that's bad) so I decided to go that route.Posted 05-30-2011 at 01:42 PM by Blurred Talon
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how did you do the rockers?Posted 11-13-2011 at 02:54 PM by dsmlover94
