http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/blogs/blueninteytwo/ DSM tech forums for performance enthusiasts. en Sun, 22 Nov 2009 05:55:16 GMT vBulletin 60 http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/images/misc/rss.jpg http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/blogs/blueninteytwo/ http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/blogs/blueninteytwo/423-what-do-dsmers-here-think.html Tue, 11 Nov 2008 02:06:28 GMT so about a week a week ago, a kid (about 17 or 18) came and picked up a wastegate i had laying around... so i met said kid, handed his pops the wastegate, he tries to push the rod down towards the blacktop, so i show him and inform him how wastegates work. he pays me for it and goes on his way.... so about a week a week ago, a kid (about 17 or 18) came and picked up a wastegate i had laying around... so i met said kid, handed his pops the wastegate, he tries to push the rod down towards the blacktop, so i show him and inform him how wastegates work.

he pays me for it and goes on his way. about 2 or 3 days later, calls me up n says he wants his money back, it doesn't work. goes like this:

me: i didn't try to screw ya, it worked fine when it was taken off the turbo. u had every chance to test/check it out, and ya paid me, so it must have passed ## inspection, and it's caveat emptor anyway. these are used parts. b4 paying me is the appropriate time to verify the functions of these things.

him: i tested it a couple of days after buying it, and it's a piece of shit. "no harm no foul", just give me my $$ back.


The dad: we're all local, just give him his money back.
it was an honest mistake, just give him his money back.
it was only 20 bucks, just give him his money back.
i didn't think it was a big deal, just give him his money back.

what do you guys think? do i give this kid his money back? or is it quite possibly the cheapest way for this kid to learn the dangers of buying used parts/ not checking them b4 buying?

please post, because it'll probably determine if i end up doing so or not. ]]> blueninteytwo http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/blogs/blueninteytwo/423-what-do-dsmers-here-think.html http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/blogs/blueninteytwo/292-you-know-its-time-get-new-car-when.html Wed, 27 Aug 2008 02:47:07 GMT kinda frustrated today....

went to get new front tires and a wheel bearing and it was a nightmare...

my local autozone can't even get me a front wheel bearing... they don't stock them anymore. luckily advance auto parts can order them.

lol, order them. noone stocks parts for these cars anymore.


so i go to replace my Goodyear Eagle GT-HR tires that i bought the car with (because it's AWD mixing and matching tires isn't a hot idea) and Goodyear no longer makes the tires for my car. great. now i have to replace 2 perfectly good tires which i'd rather not or have 2 Bridgestone Protenzas on the front and 2 Goodyear Eagle GT-HR's on the back.

i guess in the scheme of things it's not a huge deal, but it made my day quite frustrating. i'll deal because i love the car to death, but it made my day a mess. ]]> blueninteytwo http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/blogs/blueninteytwo/292-you-know-its-time-get-new-car-when.html http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/blogs/blueninteytwo/108-chris-n-nick-blog-1g-interior-switches-part-2.html Sun, 27 Jan 2008 21:36:22 GMT PART 2: LIGHTS SWITCHES 1. foglight switch. take switch apart. Image: http://img114.imageshack.us/img114/1061/fogswitchyt5.th.jpg (http://img114.imageshack.us/my.php?image=fogswitchyt5.jpg) the only pic i got. sorry. when you pull this guy apart, poke a hole so you can put the LED legs... PART 2: LIGHTS SWITCHES

1. foglight switch. take switch apart.



the only pic i got. sorry. when you pull this guy apart, poke a hole so you can put the LED legs through, and underneath the resistor in my pic is your ground. solder to there. the 12V lead is directly above the resistor, and if you look close you can see that the right side of the resistor does a 180degree bend and is soldered to that metal. how I did it was solder the ground, solder the resistor to the switch, then put a layer of hot glue over the ground solder, stick the resistor in, then cover with another layer of glue.


2. pop-up headlight switch. (1GA only) this guy has a lot of little parts in him. this is how they go together. when you attempt to reassemble this thing, i found it easy to put the button in the housing and tape it there. it seemed to make reassembly easier.


put the spring in the bottom of the white carrier, and stick it on the switch. make sure the J shaped hook makes it into the groove in the bottom of the switch.


flip it over (holding down the white carrier), put the ball in the little hole.


Put the spring on top of that...., then put the black piece on top.


headlight switch wiring...stick the LED through, solder ground to the top lead, arrange resistor like so, solder resistor to bottom lead (12V) and make sure to put some shrink wrap on the bottom lead because you're going to run the wire over the 12V pad, and if they touch, you're gonna blow the LED. hot glue everything here too.


and that's just the LED from the other side.



3. dimmer switch. this has 3 small phillips head screws, remove them first, then pry open.


we're going to be working with the bottom 2 pads where they meet the circuit board. if you use too much heat, you can take the metal prong right off the circuit board, so tape it up first. 12V is the very bottom pad, and ground is the next one up.



I shrink wrapped everything as it's gonna run along the circuit board, and once again, you don't want to ground.

i'll update the rest as soon as i take apart nick's car to do the same. ]]> blueninteytwo http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/blogs/blueninteytwo/108-chris-n-nick-blog-1g-interior-switches-part-2.html http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/blogs/blueninteytwo/107-chris-n-nick-blog-1g-interior-switches-part-1.html Sun, 27 Jan 2008 19:12:35 GMT this is our how-to on making our cars interior blue.

things you will need:

1. soldering iron. (i used both a radio-shack 15W and 40W to do the job, if you're unexperienced with soldering, use a 15W, it'll take longer, but less risk of making a mess and ruining the switches)

2. Hot glue gun.

3. Shrink-wrap or heat-shrink. i guess not totally necessary, but keeps longer leads from shorting. you can use hot glue, but the heat shrink's less messy.

PART 1: HVAC PANEL

1. HVAC panel itself. Unscrew it. there's 4 screws that hold it down.


here's the back of the HVAC panel with the bulbs out. the bulbs just twist out. now you can see why they glow orangey....


one of them done. note the bottom rail is your 12V, top rail is ground. toss a little bit of glue over the exposed leads to keep them from shorting on something.


just a completed pic.

2. Defrost Switch. just use 2 flat headed screwdrivers to separate the switch. I broke my switch in the front, so I only wired up the bottom light (which is or the switch itself, the top light is for when the defroster is actually on)


This is the switch apart. make sure not to lose that little metal ball.


to do this, i first took the bulbs out and bent the leads out of the way. then I took a soldering iron and melted a hole to stick the LED's leads into.


that's the ground. just solder the shorter leg of the LED right to that metal.


that's how I did the power side. fits in nicely.


everything hot glued, to make sure nothing's gonna touch.


3. Rear Window Switch. take the switch apart, don't lose the springs.


I made a sharpie mark on the bottom to indicate the 12V side


Just a quick pic of how I did mine.... don't bend the hell out of those switch leads, they keep the mechanism working. also, use a low power iron on this because it's easy to melt the plastic underneath. i did, luckily the switch still works. ]]> blueninteytwo http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/blogs/blueninteytwo/107-chris-n-nick-blog-1g-interior-switches-part-1.html