http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/blogs/blcknspo0ln/ DSM tech forums for performance enthusiasts. en Sat, 21 Nov 2009 12:10:19 GMT vBulletin 60 http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/images/misc/rss.jpg http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/blogs/blcknspo0ln/ http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/blogs/blcknspo0ln/342-part-21.html Wed, 24 Sep 2008 05:36:45 GMT Moving my throttle cable really did clean things up :thumb: Image: http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b39/thelmasofast/mod%2007/CIMG0065-2.jpg Quick shot of how much room I still have Image: http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b39/thelmasofast/mod%2007/CIMG0064-2.jpg *DRUM ROLL PLEASE* The... Moving my throttle cable really did clean things up :thumb:


Quick shot of how much room I still have


*DRUM ROLL PLEASE*
The final product!






It must have been a freak thing because I went back and tried everything out and knock count was zero during the entire break in I did tonight. I put about another mile just going WOT in first and letting it engine brake, it felt like the longest drive in the world. Not to mention all of my neighbors thought I was insane. I also did my ignition timing after the drive, wow what a difference.

Changed the oil, anyone ever have green oil before? It was pennzoil 10w30, idled for 15 minutes and driven 1/2 mile with a mobile 1 filter. Disregard the dark oil, that was from the pan.



Oh, about those flare AN fittings, I hate them without teflon :mad: I took them off when I changed the oil and retightened them, so hopefully they won't be leaking anymore.


How about this!? Corey helped me out and sold me his hatch struts from the GS he's parting out. WORKING HATCH STRUTS! Get this, the hatch actually lifts ITSELF! I think both corey and I were pretty amazed at this. I took a couple of minutes to let some simple green soak in the hatch area to clean her up nice too.




Adjusted ignition timing. Use whiteout on the marks on the crank pulley:


Let the car idle for an entire heat cycle (let the ecu turn the fans off then on) and plug in the timing light.


Loosen the CAS nuts and fire up DSMLink or whatever program you are using to see timing advance. If you are using DSMLink go into Misc and choose 'Ground timing'. This will give you a nice constant advance, in my case it was 5.2.



Now rotate the cas SLOWLY back and forth and watch your mark on the crank pulley versus the dial on the cover. If your program says 5.2, turn your CAS until it the little white out mark hovers around the 5* mark. After you've determined you're good, tighten the CAS down and RECHECK the pulley with the timing light.

After I cleaned up the talon, I decided to pull off the 'mask' and use a bit of mother's on her. Be gentle on the photo comments. :coy: I tried using different aperture settings and I realized that I suck.

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b3...DSC_0040-1.jpg
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b3...DSC_0046-1.jpg
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b3...DSC_0048-1.jpg
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b3...DSC_0059-2.jpg ]]> blcknspo0ln http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/blogs/blcknspo0ln/342-part-21.html http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/blogs/blcknspo0ln/341-part-20.html Wed, 24 Sep 2008 05:35:53 GMT Note the orientation of the shaft. The shortest end goes where the TPS will bolt to. Image: http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b39/thelmasofast/mod%2007/CIMG0034-2.jpg Image: http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b39/thelmasofast/mod%2007/CIMG0036-2.jpg Image:... Note the orientation of the shaft. The shortest end goes where the TPS will bolt to.





Spin the shaft on its side, so you can slide the plate in. DO NOT use a metal hammer on this plate. It is very soft and you can easily dent the plate and make it not seal correctly. I used a mallet for this.



Again, making sharpie notes on everything always helps.


You have to play with the plate a bit to get the holes to line up. Then just bolt her down. I used new screws and red loctite.



Here's the most PITA process of putting a TB together. Put the spring on, make sure the hook gets put on the post.


Slide the larger one over it.


Put the green spring inside the plastic casing here.



NOW STOP! Instead of fighting with pliers, needle noses, clamps, fingers, etc. Just ziptie the two top hooks together. I found out by chance today that it was by far the EASIEST way of getting these stupid coils together. Now hold the ziptie in one hand and spin the TB, while pushing down on the plastic thing. Once you get the lines you previously made with your sharpie in line (usually 2 full rotations), put the hooks onto the ear.





Final product:


Bolted her down with the TB elbow:


I rushed along and bolted this stuff fairly quickly:
UICP with new hump hose from extremepsi
battery
FP intake pipe
home made CAI

For anyone who wants to know, it's just a 4" 90* PVC pipe (painted black), 4" fernco coupler (plumbing aisle) and a 4" KN filter.
JMF cans. Conveniently enough, the visteon radiator leaves PERFECT room for the arm on the JMF coolant can.
]]> blcknspo0ln http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/blogs/blcknspo0ln/341-part-20.html http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/blogs/blcknspo0ln/340-part-19.html Wed, 24 Sep 2008 05:35:24 GMT Unscrew the BISS all the way out. It'll start to spin in place at the top, all you need to do is get something small and push the BISS the rest of the way out.


new BISSS and Oring from extremepsi. My old one is only 2500 miles old, but better safe than sorry I guess. Make sure it's lubed (I used white lithium grease) before you install.



Time to tap the shaft. Again, I used a #19 drill bit and then a 5mm x .080mm bit with a 10mm long bolt.


A little unorthodox, but using a drill is much easier than hand tapping. I just make sure I put it in reverse every couple of revolutions.



I used new bolts that are flat headed instead of phillips head, I will be using blue loctite this time around.


My dumptube exits right next to the oil return line and I wasn't very comfortable with that. So after some research, I went to autozone and bought 1.5" exhaust flex tubing. This stuff is awesome and only costs 5 bucks!! Don't mind the ghetto "bottom out" shield on my downpipe LOL



As she sits now. Everything is ready to go, I'm just waiting for the shaft seals to complete the entire project :rocks::rocks::rocks::rocks:




Almost done!

TB shaft seals came in, here's how to put it back together.


I put the seal facing IN and used an 8mm socket to press it into place, no grease was used.



Lube the shaft. I used white lithium grease, anything will really work here.
]]> blcknspo0ln http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/blogs/blcknspo0ln/340-part-19.html http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/blogs/blcknspo0ln/339-part-18.html Wed, 24 Sep 2008 05:32:53 GMT Rebolted the suspension. Both the control arm (curved one) and lateral arm (straight) need to come out so that it is very easy to swing the suspension assembly out to remove the axle. Image: http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b39/thelmasofast/mod%2007/CIMG0264-1.jpg tilt your head to the left... Rebolted the suspension. Both the control arm (curved one) and lateral arm (straight) need to come out so that it is very easy to swing the suspension assembly out to remove the axle.


tilt your head to the left LOL


You can make out both arms here:


lateral arm (it's a long bolt and nut)


TB rebuild! I'm still waiting on new shaft seals from JNZ, but it's the same concept for putting it back together.

Remove the TPS and you get this, take the 10mm bolt out and don't lose the lock washer!


Here's a machv shaft seal


Switch to the other side of the TB where the cable ear is. Take a sharpy and make 2 lines on both sides of the springs, this way you know how many revolutions you need to go back to correct tension. Remove the 12mm bolt.


Just wiggle the ear off and the plastic under it:


Other side of the TB:
[IMG]

Now, find a phillips head bit that is the correct size for the bolts. These are a major PITA because they strip all of the time. The easiest way I've found to do this is with an electric drill. Use the drill and put all of your wait on the bolt before you start loosening it. This way theres little chance the bolt will strip. In my case, I put red loctite last rebuild and this is what I had to deal with :toobad:.



Sucks. I drilled 2 holes with a #19 bit, so I could later tap with a 5 x .8 bit.


If you had good luck, the bolts came out nice and easy. Now take a sharpy and mark the intake and exhaust side of the plate. I like putting the up arrow on both sides so I know for sure the orientation of the plate once I have to reinstall.

Take a rubber mallet and tap the throttle plate out.


Here's a nice comparison. I had a spare 2g plate and it's much easier to visualize the plates next to each other instead of comparing whole TB's. Second pic is the two shaft differences, 1G on the left, 2g on the right.



Once the plate is out, just tap the shaft out:


Now take a flat head and pop the shaft seals out. If I remember correctly, stock seals are metal, so it'll take a bit of playing with to get em out.


I cleaned it up a bit with a dremel and pad:
]]> blcknspo0ln http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/blogs/blcknspo0ln/339-part-18.html http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/blogs/blcknspo0ln/338-part-17.html Wed, 24 Sep 2008 05:32:23 GMT AFPR bolted on with some new fuel line.


Heres a pic of a slave rod with the boot pulled back. Here's also the point where I called it a night because I realized I have to unbolt the slave just to put it back on the car, hence the need to bleed the clutch system again :toobad: Oh well, mind as well do that too.


Goodnight and happy new year!

Ok, after the ordeal with my radiator, I finally got my visteon radiator in. Great quality piece.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/bolt...#post151367057

Finally bolted down the valve cover, I use 6mmx1.00 ss bolts for teh bl!ng :D



I like putting a bit of RTV on this too. I've done it many times dry, but I figured why not with the RTV since I RTV'd everything else ROFL



Moon seal:




Rebolted the slave cylinder on:


bolts here (driver's side view):

pass: side view:


I had a mega-bitch time putting the hard lines back on, I must have bent them when I removed the engine.



Solution? Upgrade it ROFL I also did a bit of research on removing the accumulator and as defiant says, it will not be missed after I remove it.



I aimed it upright so that I can have access to the bleed port when I rebleed the clutch. I just moved the line in between the engine mount, instead of below. When you buy a new one, it comes with 2 new crush washers and banjo (14mm).


I'm not sure why it's so long.


Flare (line, crow feet, whatever you want to call it) wrenches need to be used here. THE NUT WILL STRIP if you try to use an open ended wrench on it. Sizes are 10mm and 18mm for the two sides.



Test fitted and drilled new mounting holes for the JMF oil catch can (thanks Rich!)
]]> blcknspo0ln http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/blogs/blcknspo0ln/338-part-17.html http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/blogs/blcknspo0ln/337-part-16.html Wed, 24 Sep 2008 05:31:24 GMT 123bobby123 saves the day! Image: http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b39/thelmasofast/mod%2007/CIMG0192.jpg blcknspo0ln.. um... yea! Image: http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b39/thelmasofast/mod%2007/CIMG0193-1.jpg Finally dropped in the bay: Image:... 123bobby123 saves the day!

blcknspo0ln.. um... yea!


Finally dropped in the bay:


First motor mount we put in was the rear one:

Then the front one:


Once those two are in, you can let the engine off of the picker. Get a jack and jack the engine up by the driver most side of the oil pan so that the engine can pivot and rock so that you can get a good angle to put in the last transmission mount. Once you do that, do battle with the driver's side engine mount.



Put some solid brass shifter cables on with new cotter pins. There are two 12mm bolts holding the assembly to the trans.


If anyone is wondering, the starter does not need a seperate ground. It grounds itself, so all you have is the power strap and the clip from the engine harness. There is a separate ground from the same harness, but you can ground that just about anywhere.


Put the ss fuel feed line on the rail:


Put the pass axle back on. Use antiseize on the spline so it doesn't get rusted out.



I skipped a huge part of the electrical because I simply hate it. I got dazed and confused for about an hour just trying to figure out where all the freakin plugs go. Sorry for not taking pictures, I was busy throwing tools and punching my fender :cry:LOL



Heres the LICP from the SSAC kit. About 4" has been hacked off to "customize" the kit and it has been powdercoated ink black by liquidpowdercoats.com



]]> blcknspo0ln http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/blogs/blcknspo0ln/337-part-16.html http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/blogs/blcknspo0ln/336-part-15.html Wed, 24 Sep 2008 05:30:41 GMT Finally got a picker back and now it's to do so some real work!


Use a tire or something to put the engine on, position it so that you can have access to the crank pulley bolt and enough room to mount the trans.


Put the starter plate on. It is held on by 2 tiny bolts, so don't torque 'em too much.

Put the flywheel on and gently tap it around with a mallet to make sure it's on flat. There is a dowel pin to guide the flywheel on.


6 new OEM flywheel bolts and red loctite. Torqued in a hexagonal sequence at 30 ft/lb, 60, 80, and then 100. Make sure it's torqued in steps to ensure you don't warp the flywheel.

Put a 1/2 bar on the crank shaft to stop the crank from moving.


The machinist stepped the flywheel to .612, you can kind of make out his sharpy on the center of the flywheel.

Put the clutch alignment tool in the disc and then put the disc + tool through the center of the flywheel.

Slide the pressure plate on. There are 3 guide pins to be wary of. I took a mallet and tapped the PP on. Again, I torqued the 6 bolts in a cris-cross pattern, first to 10 ft/lb and then to 20 ft/lb. These do not need to be insanely torqued down!


The girlfriend helps! I put the trans on the picker because it's too much of a PITA to try to man handle it on.





Make sure you have the two alignment dowel pins (guide pins). These are probably the most crucial pins, so that you will ensure the longevity of your clutch.

Bolt the starter on


Anyone know how this bolt gets put on? It's the rear dowel pin hole. The strange part is that the block is threaded. I just put a long bolt in there, but does anyone know if the trans has threads on the opposite side? Strange if you ask me.

]]> blcknspo0ln http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/blogs/blcknspo0ln/336-part-15.html http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/blogs/blcknspo0ln/335-part-14.html Wed, 24 Sep 2008 05:26:27 GMT I forgot to put spark plugs in. Here's the good ol' "gap to .028 picture" ROFL Using a feeler gauge IMHO is a much more accurate way of gapping plugs.




Reused the clutch fork (<2000 miles), new clip, new OEM TOB, and new OEM fulcrum.


Assemble as shown, no magic to it, just put it in the holes so the TOB stays on the fork. I used this valvoline moly lube on the pivot hole and inside of the TOB.




Old vs new fulcrum. DogboxRacing put a shim on it, but I didn't feel the need to (opinions?)




Water pump pulleys (alternator and power steering). Note the notch that needs to line up and how the pulleys need to mate, otherwise the belt will be skewed when you put it on.





Put the dump tube on. I'm kind of weary about the placement of the exit. To answer a question before, yes it's a custom piece. I bought it off of visiondsm.


Cleaned the engine bay, removed all unecessary electronics on firewall, moved some stuff around.



]]> blcknspo0ln http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/blogs/blcknspo0ln/335-part-14.html http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/blogs/blcknspo0ln/334-part-13.html Wed, 24 Sep 2008 05:25:54 GMT Oil pan is back on: Image: http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b39/thelmasofast/mod%2007/CIMG0030-1.jpg Image: http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b39/thelmasofast/mod%2007/CIMG0034-1.jpg Oil return: Image: http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b39/thelmasofast/mod%2007/CIMG0036-1.jpg Image:... Oil pan is back on:



Oil return:



I won't spend too much time on the timing belt, procedure outlined here:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/arti...-6bolt-2g.html



For those who don't know what gap you're measuring:


My ubercool powdercoated cam gears :D


I put the throttle body on. It has no FIAV with the blockoff plate from JMF and this is with an SSAC TB elbow.






I put the timing belt covers on. If anyone is wondering, those large gashes are a result of the AC tensioner slipping and causing near fatal death to my timing belt last summer. I have since cut the timing cover into two sections because it makes taking the lower cover off when the engine in the car much much easier.



Running new vacuum hose. Remember that the vacuum line going to the brake boost has a check valve in it. DO NOT FORGET!!! You cannot have positive pressure going back into your brake booster.




Tidying up and gearing for the trans and engine installation :D Now I just have to get the cherry picker back from my friend.




Patiently waiting...
]]> blcknspo0ln http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/blogs/blcknspo0ln/334-part-13.html http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/blogs/blcknspo0ln/333-part-12.html Wed, 24 Sep 2008 05:25:12 GMT Putting the oil gear and stub shaft in should be flush against the casing: Image: http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b39/thelmasofast/mod%2007/CIMG0007-1.jpg Image: http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b39/thelmasofast/mod%2007/CIMG0010-1.jpg Image:... Putting the oil gear and stub shaft in should be flush against the casing:




A nice recommendation was to make sure the oil pump casing was flush to the front casing surface without any pressure or aid. I had to wiggle it a bit, but here she is. Again, blue loctited bolts to 18 ft/lb.





The oil pump gear has a slot that you have to line up on the shaft in order to slide it down:


I used blue loctite this time because it was a major PITA to get the red loctited bolt off. I guess it really does its job ROFL


Hold it down and torque the nut with a 12mm wrench to 28 ft/lb.


Another new alignment pin:


New gasket, I've gotten really good at judging the tackiness/time frame LOL


Again, a little wiggling, but the front case should mate to the block (flush) without much effort.





Balance shaft sprocket:


Crank trigger plate:


Crank sprocket:
]]> blcknspo0ln http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/blogs/blcknspo0ln/333-part-12.html http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/blogs/blcknspo0ln/332-part-11.html Wed, 24 Sep 2008 05:24:37 GMT back to the turbo, here's my FP manifold, PTE 5031RE with PTE housing, and NT water pipe. No beating up this time to make it fit.




I put grease on the Oring on the dip stick tube and had to bend it to nearly straight to make it fit. The bracket bolts to the bottom of the power steering bracket, as seen where my socket is.




Almost done :)





Some bling! SS bolts and powdercoated radiator brackets.


Ever have mini-throw up? Or felt that sinking feeling in your stomach? Well, that was my Merry Christmas EVE :toobad::notgood:

I filled up the engine with some regular pennzoil 10w-30 non-syn and was ready to prime the engine before putting the tbelt on. I go and grab the air ratchet and put on my 14mm wrench. All of a sudden while I'm letting the pump spin and looking for oil to plumb to the head, my hand gets wet with oil. W...T...F...?? I look down to see this. A nice HUGE crack at the castle plug area. Wait, did I over torque it? No.. I have no idea why it split like this and it lead to another 2 hours of down time pulling off the oil pan, crank pulley bolt, etc. and finally removed the front case. I'm going to call extremepsi on wednesday and hopefully they can work out a warranty or something. I wouldn't mind buying a new one if it was my fault, but I can't see how any of the work I did caused this thing to crack. :rolleyes::barf:




Sigh, so my entire engine is sitting upside on the stand in the garage and I literally started throwing stuff around. What a crappy way to end a day.

Front case : take 2

Got the new one in from extremepsi; here we go again..



A lot of people have suspected that the first case front case gave because of excess pressure and/or contact with the castle plug and BSE stub, but to be sure, the bolt has to be on the inside lip. I did that the first time, but it doesn't hurt double checking.



BSE parts:


Castle plug installed. Again, hand tightened with high temp sealant and then hammer/flat headed into place.



Replacing the balance shaft seal with the plug:

]]> blcknspo0ln http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/blogs/blcknspo0ln/332-part-11.html http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/blogs/blcknspo0ln/331-part-10.html Wed, 24 Sep 2008 05:23:18 GMT Put the alternator on. It's just a really long 8x1.25 bolt and nut for the pivot and about a 8x1.25x50 bolt for the bracket/water pump.






Bolted the knock sensor on. I used red loctite.



Bolted the JMF SMIM on . It's dirty and beat up, so I did my best to polish it up with some rags and mother's mag. I have a heat barrier gasket and used black RTV and copper spray on both sides of this. I used blue loctite on the bolts and torqued to 20 ft/lb on the smaller bolts and 25 ft/lb on the larger (14mm head) bolts.





A little elbow grease really shined her up. I just went side to side with the rag on the runners.






I ping ponged back and forth because I forgot to do these two before, bolted the new OEM autotensioner on. The bolts are 8x1.25x~35.



Teflon'd and bolted on the OEM oil pressure sender to the OFH.



I lubed up both sets of Orings on the injectors and put them back on the the rail.




I like putting the bottom seal on the head and then inserting the fuel injector into the seal. This is my foolproof way of installing these things. I torqued the fuel rail bolts to 18 ft/lb.


]]> blcknspo0ln http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/blogs/blcknspo0ln/331-part-10.html http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/blogs/blcknspo0ln/330-part-9.html Wed, 24 Sep 2008 05:21:49 GMT Thermo housing:

Black RTV, gasket, and more RTV (you're using thin layers right!?)



Turbo was all put together, so I just needed to clean off the gasket (get Permatex gasket remover, that stuff WILL TAKE OFF ANYTHING!!) and put her back together. I like using some copper high temp RTV on exhaust parts, some people don't, some people do.





The shop put a plug in here as a precaution, since I'm running the oil feed from the head, it obviously has to come out.





I had to admire my new valve cover :D



More updates later :)

Continuing on... I found a barbed 1/4"fitting for the water feed for my turbo. Put my autometer water temp sensor in and put OEM sensors.



I put my JMF coil pack bracket on. I had to switch to two smaller 10mm bolts to fit it on.




I guess I'm just another victim of rushing, even though I've tried to take this project as slow as I can. I had to put the power steering bracket on and had to remove the water pipe to do it. I pulled it out and put a new layer of hylomar on there for good measure.





Bolted on the oil return line, First I cleaned off the crap on the oil pan with gasket remove (this stuff is really nasty, I got it on my skin and it instantly burned). I used black RTV and an OEM gasket along with the little 6mm bolts (yes defiant, one day I'll tap it to SAE :tease:)


]]> blcknspo0ln http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/blogs/blcknspo0ln/330-part-9.html http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/blogs/blcknspo0ln/329-part-8.html Wed, 24 Sep 2008 05:19:18 GMT STOP! If you are running aftermarket springs/retainers in your head, read on. At least in my case, the BC springs/retainers are a bit larger than stock so the ARP washer won't go all the way down when the stud is in the head. So, before you put the head on, drop the arp washer in each respective slot. You can see clearly here why this needs to be done prior to putting the head on. I used a screwdriver to point and slide the washers on, it's much easier than trying to eyeball or needle nose them into position.





Ok, now that the washers are in, I sprayed the headgakset about 4 layers worth on each side.




Now carefully slide the head on, watch the washers so they don't get pushed out by the headstud!!



I cleaned the CAS and put a new Oring on.



OFH:
Pretty straight forward, clean both surfaces, new teflon, a bit of black RTV, and copper spray.




2g mounting bracket:


Here's "the cut" you have to make to modify the 2g bracket to accomondate the 1g water pump.




Install the timing idler pulley with red loctite to 35 ft/lb, finger tighten the timing tensioner pulley on.




Waterpipe:
I used hylomar on the actual water pump housing and a new Oring for the pipe. This is an NT water pipe, no water provisions.



Here's the bolt everyone complains about when the turbo is on. Just take a swivel socket or a gear wrench to get at it. In this case, it's right there :D




hmm.. Just had to take a step back:

]]> blcknspo0ln http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/blogs/blcknspo0ln/329-part-8.html http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/blogs/blcknspo0ln/328-part-7.html Wed, 24 Sep 2008 05:17:43 GMT When bolting on the front case, MAKE SURE, you either use a sealant or RTV on this bolt, or else it will leak. Image: http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b39/thelmasofast/mod%2007/CIMG0140.jpg Oil pickup: Since I have ARP mains now, I had to drill the mounting hole for the oil pick up a bit... When bolting on the front case, MAKE SURE, you either use a sealant or RTV on this bolt, or else it will leak.



Oil pickup:

Since I have ARP mains now, I had to drill the mounting hole for the oil pick up a bit larger:




Here's a curious question, does anyone know the answer to this? What's up with the drilled/cut/welded crank? Sadly enough, I don't know if it was like that prior to my build or if the machine shop just did it :toobad:






Oil pan gasket:

straight forward, I cleaned it off and used some "great stuff" and a new felpro gasket, torqued all bolts to 10 ft/lb.




Cleaned it off:




Note the orientation of the bolts. There are TWO that are shorter than the rest. These two bolts need to be used under the oil pump sprocket and the one next to it. If you can imagine, if they are too long, they will make contact with the timing belt.



Head:

New guide pins from JNZ:




ARP: I used blue loctite where the stud goes to the block, finger tightened and snugged with a hex wrench (don't apply too much torque to just the stud/head). put moly lube on the top threads (where the nut will go).



set the engine at somewhere BTDC:

]]> blcknspo0ln http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/blogs/blcknspo0ln/328-part-7.html