Blog Title: blcknspo0ln
Part 15
Posted 09-23-2008 at 11:30 PM by blcknspo0ln
Finally got a picker back and now it's to do so some real work!
Use a tire or something to put the engine on, position it so that you can have access to the crank pulley bolt and enough room to mount the trans.
Put the starter plate on. It is held on by 2 tiny bolts, so don't torque 'em too much.
Put the flywheel on and gently tap it around with a mallet to make sure it's on flat. There is a dowel pin to guide the flywheel on.
6 new OEM flywheel bolts and red loctite. Torqued in a hexagonal sequence at 30 ft/lb, 60, 80, and then 100. Make sure it's torqued in steps to ensure you don't warp the flywheel.
Put a 1/2 bar on the crank shaft to stop the crank from moving.
The machinist stepped the flywheel to .612, you can kind of make out his sharpy on the center of the flywheel.
Put the clutch alignment tool in the disc and then put the disc + tool through the center of the flywheel.
Slide the pressure plate on. There are 3 guide pins to be wary of. I took a mallet and tapped the PP on. Again, I torqued the 6 bolts in a cris-cross pattern, first to 10 ft/lb and then to 20 ft/lb. These do not need to be insanely torqued down!
The girlfriend helps! I put the trans on the picker because it's too much of a PITA to try to man handle it on.
Make sure you have the two alignment dowel pins (guide pins). These are probably the most crucial pins, so that you will ensure the longevity of your clutch.
Bolt the starter on
Anyone know how this bolt gets put on? It's the rear dowel pin hole. The strange part is that the block is threaded. I just put a long bolt in there, but does anyone know if the trans has threads on the opposite side? Strange if you ask me.
Use a tire or something to put the engine on, position it so that you can have access to the crank pulley bolt and enough room to mount the trans.
Put the starter plate on. It is held on by 2 tiny bolts, so don't torque 'em too much.
Put the flywheel on and gently tap it around with a mallet to make sure it's on flat. There is a dowel pin to guide the flywheel on.
6 new OEM flywheel bolts and red loctite. Torqued in a hexagonal sequence at 30 ft/lb, 60, 80, and then 100. Make sure it's torqued in steps to ensure you don't warp the flywheel.
Put a 1/2 bar on the crank shaft to stop the crank from moving.
The machinist stepped the flywheel to .612, you can kind of make out his sharpy on the center of the flywheel.
Put the clutch alignment tool in the disc and then put the disc + tool through the center of the flywheel.
Slide the pressure plate on. There are 3 guide pins to be wary of. I took a mallet and tapped the PP on. Again, I torqued the 6 bolts in a cris-cross pattern, first to 10 ft/lb and then to 20 ft/lb. These do not need to be insanely torqued down!
The girlfriend helps! I put the trans on the picker because it's too much of a PITA to try to man handle it on.
Make sure you have the two alignment dowel pins (guide pins). These are probably the most crucial pins, so that you will ensure the longevity of your clutch.
Bolt the starter on
Anyone know how this bolt gets put on? It's the rear dowel pin hole. The strange part is that the block is threaded. I just put a long bolt in there, but does anyone know if the trans has threads on the opposite side? Strange if you ask me.
Total Comments 0
