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Blog Title: blcknspo0ln

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Part 21

Posted 09-23-2008 at 11:36 PM by blcknspo0ln

Moving my throttle cable really did clean things up


Quick shot of how much room I still have


*DRUM ROLL PLEASE*
The final product!


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Part 20

Posted 09-23-2008 at 11:35 PM by blcknspo0ln

Note the orientation of the shaft. The shortest end goes where the TPS will bolt to.



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Part 19

Posted 09-23-2008 at 11:35 PM by blcknspo0ln

Unscrew the BISS all the way out. It'll start to spin in place at the top, all you need to do is get something small and push the BISS the rest of the way out.


new BISSS and Oring from extremepsi. My old one is only 2500 miles old, but better safe than sorry I guess. Make sure it's lubed (I...
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Part 18

Posted 09-23-2008 at 11:32 PM by blcknspo0ln

Rebolted the suspension. Both the control arm (curved one) and lateral arm (straight) need to come out so that it is very easy to swing the suspension assembly out to remove the axle.


tilt your head to the left
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Part 17

Posted 09-23-2008 at 11:32 PM by blcknspo0ln

AFPR bolted on with some new fuel line.


Heres a pic of a slave rod with the boot pulled back. Here's also the point where I called it a night because I realized I have to unbolt the slave just to put it back on the car, hence the need to bleed the clutch system again Oh well, mind as...
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Part 16

Posted 09-23-2008 at 11:31 PM by blcknspo0ln

123bobby123 saves the day!

blcknspo0ln.. um... yea!


Finally dropped in the bay:


First...
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Part 15

Posted 09-23-2008 at 11:30 PM by blcknspo0ln

Finally got a picker back and now it's to do so some real work!


Use a tire or something to put the engine on, position it so that you can have access to the crank pulley bolt and enough room to mount the trans....
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Part 14

Posted 09-23-2008 at 11:26 PM by blcknspo0ln

I forgot to put spark plugs in. Here's the good ol' "gap to .028 picture" Using a feeler gauge IMHO is a much more accurate way of gapping plugs.




Reused the clutch fork (
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Part 13

Posted 09-23-2008 at 11:25 PM by blcknspo0ln

Oil pan is back on:



Oil return:

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Part 12

Posted 09-23-2008 at 11:25 PM by blcknspo0ln

Putting the oil gear and stub shaft in should be flush against the casing:




A nice recommendation was to make...
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Part 11

Posted 09-23-2008 at 11:24 PM by blcknspo0ln

back to the turbo, here's my FP manifold, PTE 5031RE with PTE housing, and NT water pipe. No beating up this time to make it fit.




I put grease on the Oring on the dip stick tube and had to bend it...
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Part 10

Posted 09-23-2008 at 11:23 PM by blcknspo0ln

Put the alternator on. It's just a really long 8x1.25 bolt and nut for the pivot and about a 8x1.25x50 bolt for the bracket/water pump.



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Part 9

Posted 09-23-2008 at 11:21 PM by blcknspo0ln

Thermo housing:

Black RTV, gasket, and more RTV (you're using thin layers right!?)



Turbo was all put together, so I just needed to clean off the gasket (get Permatex gasket remover, that stuff...
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Part 8

Posted 09-23-2008 at 11:19 PM by blcknspo0ln

STOP! If you are running aftermarket springs/retainers in your head, read on. At least in my case, the BC springs/retainers are a bit larger than stock so the ARP washer won't go all the way down when the stud is in the head. So, before you put the head on, drop the arp washer in each respective slot. You can see clearly here why this needs to be done prior to putting the head on. I used a screwdriver...
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Part 7

Posted 09-23-2008 at 11:17 PM by blcknspo0ln

When bolting on the front case, MAKE SURE, you either use a sealant or RTV on this bolt, or else it will leak.



Oil pickup:

Since I have ARP mains now, I had to drill the mounting hole for the oil pick up a bit larger:
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Part 6

Posted 09-23-2008 at 11:17 PM by blcknspo0ln

Fuel filter:

I stripped the crap out of the nut, even using a flare wrench I ended up getting really mad and just using an adjust lock-wrench (brain fart on what it's called right now).



re-teflon'd the fitting:

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Part 5

Posted 09-23-2008 at 11:16 PM by blcknspo0ln

I got a little done today, I had to order a new castle plug for the front case, so my engine build is pretty much at a stand still until I get it in.

Got the block on the stand today I used 10x1.25x80mm bolts (most use tranny bolts)


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Part 4

Posted 09-23-2008 at 11:14 PM by blcknspo0ln

If the nut gets stuck on the main studs, just use a hex key and a ratcheting wrench to take em off.



all done:


This stupid plug was the whole reason for this rebuild. I ordered a new...
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Part 3

Posted 09-23-2008 at 11:13 PM by blcknspo0ln

When disassembling anything, I like to make little baggies and use a sharpie to label all of my bags. You end up having a lot of baggies, but it makes things 1000x easier to find.




Cam caps. Please...
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Part 2

Posted 09-23-2008 at 11:11 PM by blcknspo0ln

I started off with an assembled head. Meaning the shop put together the valves, keepers, springs, retainers, bronze guides, and valve stem seals.




Now, prior to me getting my head back, I soaked...
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Project "Rely-on-ability"

Posted 09-23-2008 at 11:09 PM by blcknspo0ln

Reserving space to get this thing going

I thought I'd start my own documentation of this winter's build. I figure the more things we can look at, the more information can be had I call this project "rely-on-ability" because I read it over on DSMLink. No need to worry about reliability, if you can rely on your ability I currently have a 6 bolt engine in which I decided to "refresh"...
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