No Reverse Still, Doesnt Shift, I dont get it...

[Sbeing1]

Well, as you all know, I just installed a 3500 converter, shift kit, and end clutch kit. I was trying to fix my previous problem of the flexplate exploding and decided to make it run even better than before with some upgraded parts. Well its installed and I have no Reverse and it wont shift (probably limp mode). I dont know what to do and I'm getting quite aggrevated. If anyone can help me I would greatly appreciate it because I'm at a stand still. Is there a way to reset the tcu or something? Also, if someone can draw a pic of were the solenoid and pule generator wires are (because i know they can be confused easily) thatd be a great help because I could try that out. Thanks.

 

[SlowSpyder]

did you remember to plug the connector back for the solenoids. Ive done that before and it stays in 3rd gear or limp home mode. Also did you put a quart of atf in the torque converter before installion?

 

[Old Mitsu Tech]

Mixing the shift solenoid wires and the pulse generator wires will cause it to go into limp mode. However, it in no way causes reverse to malfunction. My first thougt if it worked before you installed all this is I've seen the torque converter not all the way in and when the bolts were cranked up the front pump was damaged. Not saying this happened, but I have seen it. For info purposes, always make sure the torque converter is moving as you are coming together. That way if it binds, you immediately catch it. Check your fluid levels as a new converter takes a lot of fluid. Check in neutral as park will show it to be full when in actuality it is not.

If all this pans out, you may be pulling it back out.

Good Luck

 

[Sbeing1]

Mixing the shift solenoid wires and the pulse generator wires will cause it to go into limp mode. However, it in no way causes reverse to malfunction. My first thougt if it worked before you installed all this is I've seen the torque converter not all the way in and when the bolts were cranked up the front pump was damaged. Not saying this happened, but I have seen it. For info purposes, always make sure the torque converter is moving as you are coming together. That way if it binds, you immediately catch it. Check your fluid levels as a new converter takes a lot of fluid. Check in neutral as park will show it to be full when in actuality it is not.

If all this pans out, you may be pulling it back out.

Good Luck

Awesome, thanks for your help. Yea, I pused it all the way in until it wouldnt go any further. I put alot of fluid in the converter too. I wasnt thinking it was the converter. I switched those solenoid plugs and it still didnt work so I dont think thats the problem. I also put in new end clutches and a shift kit, I was thinking I screwed one of those up. One question though, how would the front pump get damaged? Maybe Im not reading it correct. Thanks guys!

 

[92awddsm]

One question though, how would the front pump get damaged? Maybe Im not reading it correct. Thanks guys!

The 2 notches on the snout of converter actually drive the pump. If those notches dont line up with the tangs on the pump before tightening the bell housing, you will either lock up the pump or destroy the pump case, quite possibly both.

 

[Sbeing1]

The 2 notches on the snout of converter actually drive the pump. If those notches dont line up with the tangs on the pump before tightening the bell housing, you will either lock up the pump or destroy the pump case, quite possibly both.

Would this cause any overheating? I have a trans temp gauge. Would this cause it to not shift or go in reverse? Just trying to figure out anything else before I drop it. Thank you for your help.

 

[92awddsm]

If the pump isnt spinning or is damaged, it wont circulate the fluid through the cooler properly and eventually, it will overheat. At the same time, it wont produce enough pressure for it to shift, that is if you are lucky enough to get it to engage into gear. It really sounds more like a fluid level or pressure problem than anything else.

 

[Sbeing1]

If the pump isnt spinning or is damaged, it wont circulate the fluid through the cooler properly and eventually, it will overheat. At the same time, it wont produce enough pressure for it to shift, that is if you are lucky enough to get it to engage into gear. It really sounds more like a fluid level or pressure problem than anything else.

Well my fluid level is perfect. So it must be a pressure problem. How do I go about checking this? Do I need to tow it to a tranny shop? Thanks!

 

[DNA666]

Did you get your problem fixed?

I just redid my clutches and installed a shift kit and am getting these same symptoms. I also have error code P0700 transmission Control System Malfunction in DSMlink and an aftermarket OBDII scanner.

I was told it could possibly be that the Manual Valve installation is incorrect but have not been able to drop the pan and check.

Does anyone know what would happen if the O-ring on top of the valve body was not installed correctly?

 

[DNA666]

The 2 notches on the snout of converter actually drive the pump. If those notches dont line up with the tangs on the pump before tightening the bell housing, you will either lock up the pump or destroy the pump case, quite possibly both.

Are you sure your not talking about the 2 O-rings on the pump? I don't recall ever seeing 2 notches on the convertor itself. Last time my engine was out I put the convertor in without lining anything up and it worked fine after it was all together.

 

[DNA666]

Using a light I was able to pull the transmission codes.

41 Open-Circuited shift control solenoid valve A
43 Open-Circuited shift control solenoid valve B
83 Open or Short-circuited Shift Control Solenoid valve A
84 Open or Short-circuited Shift Control Solenoid valve B

Maybe I installed the solenoids on the valve body reversed? Atleast I have a place to start now.

 

[92awddsm]

Are you sure your not talking about the 2 O-rings on the pump? I don't recall ever seeing 2 notches on the convertor itself. Last time my engine was out I put the convertor in without lining anything up and it worked fine after it was all together.

No, I am talking about that 2 flat sections on the snout of the converter.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[DNA666]

No, I am talking about that 2 flat sections on the snout of the converter.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

I don't see how that would drive the pump when there are splines inside the convertor that mount over the pump.

 

[92awddsm]

I don't see how that would drive the pump when there are splines inside the convertor that mount over the pump.

The pump is not driven by a splined shaft. The pump is actually located in the front of the tranny, right behind the converter. It is driven off of the outer diameter of the snout.

 

[DNA666]

The pump is not driven by a splined shaft. The pump is actually located in the front of the tranny, right behind the converter. It is driven off of the outer diameter of the snout.

Ok, I got it now after looking at a picture. However, I don't see how you could install the convertor without those being in the right place. I can't imagine the converotr would even clear the bell housing if it was not in place all the way.

I usually have to spin the converor a little bit before it drops down into place.

 

[Sbeing1]

No, I didnt get my situation solved just yet. Somehow water got in the tranny (dont ask me how) and now the tranny is being fully rebuilt again :sigh:. But i bet it was something as simple as the manual valve or solenoids, or now that I think about it, a setting on my SAFC (not setting it to Karman for the air flow meter). But too late to test it all, its being rebuilt, guess its better this way so I know everything is perfect. Just dont know how water got in...im stumped. and it was ALOT.

 

[DNA666]

No, I didnt get my situation solved just yet. Somehow water got in the tranny (dont ask me how) and now the tranny is being fully rebuilt again :sigh:. But i bet it was something as simple as the manual valve or solenoids, or now that I think about it, a setting on my SAFC (not setting it to Karman for the air flow meter). But too late to test it all, its being rebuilt, guess its better this way so I know everything is perfect. Just dont know how water got in...im stumped. and it was ALOT.

I am getting ready to pull mine again and see where I failed in the rebuild.

 

[DNA666]

I am getting ready to pull mine again and see where I failed in the rebuild.

THX Sbeing, you saved me alot of time.

Problen Solved: I had my shift solenoids swapped with the 02 connector. Upon further inspection ( 95 GSX) the 02 connector was sheethed in a slick black plastic while the solenoid connectors were wrapped in the black loom. I should have paid more attention. Car sat for 2 weeks awaiting a tranny pull and 3 redone valve body jobs when it was a 5 minute fix.

 

[Sbeing1]

THX Sbeing, you saved me alot of time.

Problen Solved: I had my shift solenoids swapped with the 02 connector. Upon further inspection ( 95 GSX) the 02 connector was sheethed in a slick black plastic while the solenoid connectors were wrapped in the black loom. I should have paid more attention. Car sat for 2 weeks awaiting a tranny pull and 3 redone valve body jobs when it was a 5 minute fix.

No problem, glad to here your car is back up mines still in the shop

 

[jram53]

ok hate to bring an old thread back but im having a similar prob but this didnt help much so im gonna ask..my car is basically doing the same no shifting and no reverse...i pressure tested my low/reverse and i got a 0 reading but the rest was fine....when in drive the car moves really sluggish, the speed sensor was accidentally cracked on the install so i wonder if that can cause the car not to shift since some cars do shift depending on how fast they are going (please correct me if im wrong im a current auto trans student at school so i dont know much) i already ordered the part but still wondering on the no reverse could it be the manual valve? one thing i noticed was my reverse lights stay on sometimes after i put it in park....tbh im just glad my car is moving not i wanna see it move right... any help would be appreciated.

 

[DNA666]

ok hate to bring an old thread back but im having a similar prob but this didnt help much so im gonna ask..my car is basically doing the same no shifting and no reverse...i pressure tested my low/reverse and i got a 0 reading but the rest was fine....when in drive the car moves really sluggish, the speed sensor was accidentally cracked on the install so i wonder if that can cause the car not to shift since some cars do shift depending on how fast they are going (please correct me if im wrong im a current auto trans student at school so i dont know much) i already ordered the part but still wondering on the no reverse could it be the manual valve? one thing i noticed was my reverse lights stay on sometimes after i put it in park....tbh im just glad my car is moving not i wanna see it move right... any help would be appreciated.

Hey, I haven't been her ein forever nor have I owned my DSM in over a year. I just got an Email about this thread.

Anyway, if I remmeber correctly the order goes.... P-R-N-D

If this is correct it sounds like your shift linkage may be off. So when you're in R you are actually in N.

 

[jram53]

already tried and failed no reverse anywhere but im pretty sure i do have a shift link cable prob since i did have reverse lights on while in park but idk if thats my only problem since i did install a shift kit i could have put a valve on wrong

 

[DNA666]

I think I had to do pull my valve body 2 or 3 times before I got it right. Pull it again and make sure you put all the springs and balls in the correct place. I think there is 2 different types of balls and since the valve body works on pressure it probably matters where they go. Also, make sure you hooked the solenoids up correctly.

Make sure you plugged the solenoids on the outside in correctly as well.