Supra SMIC Install Guide - "Long Version"

[DSMunknown]

Here is where I experienced problems. My Greddy Type-S BOV comes into contact with my hood.


Notice that the first two photos are the same, but the second photo has a blue line indicating the gap that is now between the adjustment screw and the adjustment nut. I am easily able to turn this nut with my fingers. The problem is that I should not be able to do that. There is also a fair amount of air leaking from this area.






The next three photos illustrates where the adjustment screw is coming into contact with the hood.




Please notice in the next two photos the silver metal scrapes in the hole. This is where the top of the adjustment screw has been coming into contact with the hood.






I took these next two photos from the side so you can see how much the Greddy Type-S BOV is now elevated:





Below is another shot of where the contact is being made, but at a wide angle:








Now there are a few options I can recommend here.

1. Obviously, the first option that is open to you is to adjust the adjustment screw on the Greddy BOV to a softer setting, and thus reducing the height of the BOV.
   
   
2. Have a BOV that is shorter in height than that of the Greddy Type-S or Type-RS. Two examples would be either a 1G BOV or a Forge Motorsport BOV that is similar in style to the 1G BOV. Both are pictured below (not my picture):
   
   
   
   
   
   This Forge Motorsport BOV is close to a half inch shorter than the Greddy Type-S, and therefore there would not be any further issues with hood clearence. As you can see, the 1G BOV is shorter than the Forge Motorsport BOV, and thus the 1G BOV would be shorter than the Greddy Type-S or Type-RS.
   
   
3. Drill a hole with appropriate sized drill bits into the hood. Please notice where my adjustment screw is hitting the hood. It is hitting a section of the hood support brace. This means that if you were to drill a hole into the brace, there would be no visual changes to the outside of the hood.
   
   
4. If you have the appropriate funds, I would suggest that you get a custom-made UICP. If you are able to do this it will allow for the BOV to sit lower, avoid hood clearence issues, and will allow the fuse box to stay in its original spot.
   
   
5. [This somewhat goes back to number 1] If you are like the rest of us who do not have the money or time to have a custom UICP made, you can go to a junk yard and pick up a 1G BOV for a price anywhere between $5 and $40.
   
   
6. It disgusts me to recommend this, but you may ultimately wish to use a sawzall on your ride. If you decide to go this route, you will find that your Supra SMIC will sit higher, you won't have hood clearence issues, and your fuse box will be able to stay in its original place. Please be mindful that you must take your time, measure before you cut, and know what you are doing. If you do a half-hearted job cutting, it will come out looking like crap.
   
   
7. There is one more option that I can conceive of that involves cutting- making the exhaust adapter that is between the Brode pipe and the "top" end tank shorter. Try trimming a half inch from each end of the exhaust adapter off. If that is not good enough, try taking a little more off from each end. The only initial reserve I have about this is that the double clamping method I stress may not be viable after a certain amount of cutting.
   
   
8. In addition to shortening one of your exhaust adapters, you may also decide to shorten the other exhaust adapter as well. Do you recall post number 14 where I briefly mention my LICP rubbing against an engine brace? Well, if you decide to shorten both exhaust adapters, your LICP may not rub against this brace, and therefore you would not need to worry about it. Again, however, you may not be able to use the double clamping method that I like to stress.
   
   
9. For those of us who are frugal or just plain cheapskates, there is yet another alternative to an already inexpensive modification. Assuming that you have the same leakage problem with your Greddy BOV, you can use JB Weld on the adjustment screw. This of couse would mean that the Greddy BOV is no longer adjustable, but now you do not have a leak. I did this very recently, so I'll have to see how well this holds. You should adjust the adjustment screw so that you will not experience pressure surging. You don't want to JB Weld this area and then not be able to ajust the BOV if you experience surging problems.

[DSMunknown]

Here are a few photos to corroborate suggestion #8 seen above. This has worked thus far:











As you can see, I used JB Weld on my adjustment screw. However, if you do not wish to do this, and would like to adjust the screw at your pleasing, then you can use something called pipe dope. Pipe dope is basically a thread sealant paste that you apply to the adjustment screw threading. This product allows for the adjustment screw to be adjusted while also providing a seal so air does not escape or seep in.

Permatex offers a few products like this. Permatex products can be found at many NAPA stores.