4G63 Engine Disassembly
I have not seen a VFAQ about the disassembly of the 4G63 engine. I will post some pictures of my JDM 6-bolt disassembly and comment about them:
Reason for tearing this engine down was due to a skipped timing belt.
Start off by putting your engine on a stand. I bought mine from cummins tools but you can find them pretty much at any auto parts stores.
I always like to get the Intake manifold off first so let's start there:
Remove the bolts holding the throttle body elbow and throttle body down: 2 x 12mm bolts 2 x 12mm nuts. Don't forget the bracket that connects from the CAS to the Throttle Body. There is a 12mm nut on the CAS that you need to take off for that.
Remove the Throttle Body Elbow and coolant lines from throttle body.
Remove the throttle body
I removed the fuel rail prior to removing the engine from the car 3 x 12mm bolts 2 x 10mm bolts for the feed line and pop off the return line with some pliers. If you did not do this, remove the fuel rail and injectors now. Then, start removing all the top intake manifold bolts.
The studs on the end of the intake manifold are a larger size than the others. 2 x 14mm nuts and 3 X 12mm bolts on top.
Now, remove the bolts from the underside of the intake manifold 4 x 12mm bolts.
Now that all the bolts are out you can remove the intake manifold and gasket.
Now we can focus on the Exhaust Manifold and the Turbo:
Remove the four bolts holding the turbo to the manifold 4 x 14mm. Make sure you have disconnected the coolant hoses to the turbo (use pliers on the clamps) and the oil feed line 17mm Banjo bolt and return line 2 x 10mm bolts on oil pan and 2 x 10mm bolts on underside of turbo. After that is done you can remove the turbo and set it aside.
Next, take off the 9 x 12mm nuts that hold on the exhaust manifold, and remove the manifold.
Now remove the 3 X 12mm nuts that hold the Thermostat Housing onto the head. Also, remove the water pipe bolt that holds it to the block and pull it off and away from the water pump. Then take the last remaining bolt off of the CAS and remove it as well.
This shows the water pipe, Tstat housing, and CAS removed.
Now let's turn our attention to the front end of the engine. Let's get that alternator and power steering pump off. Remove the 12mm bolt and 12mm nut from the alternator. And pull it off.
On the power steering pump remove the 2 x 14mm bolts on the front of the pump and the 2 x 14mm bolts on the back of the pump. Remove the pump. (1g's don't have the second bolt on the back of the pump.)
Remove the 3 x 14mm bolts holding the Power Steering Pump bracket to the motor mount. Remove the bracket.
Alternator and Power Steering Pump out of the way.
Now, We need to get the Timing Belt off before we can pull the head. Make sure you rotate the engine around till it's at TDC. Now, in this case I couldn't due to the bent valves. So, If you can't don't sweat it.
Remove the belt hydraulic tensioner 2 x 12mm bolts, tensioner pulley 14mm bolt, and idler pulley 14mm bolt.
With those off, remove the timing belt.
Now, remove the driver's side engine mount from the block by removing the 2 x 14mm bolts and 14mm nut from the mount.
Remove the water pump by removing 5 x 12mm bolts. The one marked with the red arrow will have the top alternator tensioner bracket attached. You may have removed this when taking the alternator off. If not, remove it now and pop off the water pump. It will be on there tight due to the gasket. Might need to pry up with a screwdriver.
Now let's get the other front motor mount bracket taken off. Remove the 4 x 14mm bolts holding it on. One of the bolts will go through the oil dipstick tube bracket. Once the motor mount is off remove the dipstick by twisting and pulling up.
Ok, now let's do some fun stuff. Now is the time to pull the head and get a feel for the kind of shape the engine is in. Start by removing the 14 x 10mm bolts holding the Valve cover to the head.
Now you need to get a hex head socket like seen in here
Now crack each one of the head bolts loose by following the torque sequence backwards. Once they are all loose you can remove them all one by one.
Once the bolts are all out you can now lift the head off of the block. Remember to place it onto a block of wood that way it does not marr the head's surface since wood is softer than aluminum.
This is the first glace at any damage your engine might have. Take a gander at the bottom of the head for anything out of the ordinary. In this picture you can see all of the bent valves. :thumb:
This is the block with the head off. As you can see all the shiny spots on the pistons are where the valves have "kissed" them. These are reuseable just need to be smoothed out a bit as to not create hot spots which will induce knock.
Pat yourself on the back you are now done with the top end of the engine!!
Next step is removing the oil filter housing. There are 4 x 12mm bolts that hold this one on. Once the bolts are out use a rubber mallot to knock it loose.
Remember where the oil filter housing bolts went, they have three different sizes.
Now before we continue taking the front case off we need to take the oil pan off. Turn the engine block upside and start removing all of the oil pan 10mm bolts. (sorry I did't count them)
With the oil pan off you will see the oil pickup tube. This needs to be removed prior to removing the front case. Remove the 14mm nut holding the screen to the main bolt. Remove the 2 x 12mm bolts holding the tube to the oil pump. Remove the pickup tube.
Now back to the front case. Remove crankshaft sprocket by using an 1/2" drive impact gun. Remove the big bolt that holds the sprocket on and remove the sprocket. Then remove the Balance shaft tensioner pulley by removing the 12mm bolt holding it in. Then, remove the remaining 7 x 12mm bolts for the front case. When all the bolts are out use your rubber mallot to persuade the front case and balance shafts to come out by hitting it from the back away from the block. The balance shafts will come out along with the front case.
With the front case out of the way let's take the pistons and rods out. Pick whichever ones you want to do first. I did the middle two first. Spin the crank til you get them at the bottom of their stroke. (bottom of the cylinder) This makes it easy to get the nuts off. Each rod has 2 x 14mm nuts holding the rod cap on. With the nuts removed use a rubber mallot and tap on the rod bolt to get the rod to separate from the rod cap. When this happens remove the rod cap. Making sure not to let the rod bolts touch the crank some people put 3/8" fuel hose on the bolts. Push the rod towards the top of the cylinder bore and place another hand to catch it as it comes out of the block. Do this for all four rods and pistons. Inspect your rod bearings at this time.
I have not yet removed the crank in this block. But, in order to do so you need to get the rear main seal off the block. It is held on by 10mm bolts. Remove these bolts and pry it off the crank/block. With the rear main seal removed. Remove the crankshaft 10 x 17mm main bolts in the torque sequence backwards.
After removing all the main bolts. Use a rubber mallot to knock the main caps loose of the crank & block. When all the main caps are off you can remove the crank by lifting it out. Store the crank by standing it on the flywheel end. Inspect your main bearings at this time
We're not finished!!!! Freeze plugs need to be pulled out. I have come up with an easy way to do this. I call it the "Screwhammer!!" Pretty much just a flat head screwdriver and a hammer.
Place the screwdriver in the corner of the freeze plug and hit it with a hammer.
Knock it sideways like this:
Then pop it out with the screwdriver from the backside of it.
The ones on the end of the block are the biggest pain to get out since the freeze plug will hit the back of the cylinder wall. Just use your screwdriver through one of the other freeze plug holes and knock them out from behind.
[I][U]If any of my bolt sizes are incorrect please feel free to PM me so that I can correct them as I did this all from memory. [/U][/I]
Now that your block is all disassembled. Make sure you spray everything down with WD-40 as to prohibit rust from forming on the cylinder walls and crank journals. I like to wrap the block in a trash bag that way air can't get to it. Since my blocks tend to sit for a LONG time I open the bag up and inspect for rust once a month or so and give it all a good hose down with some good old WD. I also wrap the crank in plastic bag and check it often. Same for the pistons and rods except each one gets their own ziploc baggy. Make sure as you are taking bolts out of everything to have ziploc bags handy. Label all the bags with which bolts are in them and where they go. This way if you don't get back to putting it together for a couple years you will still know where everything went. Plus you have my great pictures here to help you!! Place all the baggies in a couple rubbermaid storage tubs and place them on your garage's shelving system or in my case under your work bench. It will be all waiting for you when you are ready for assembly exactly how you left it.
GOOD LUCK AND GOD BLESS!!
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