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Appearance/Interior/Exterior All discussions that are non-performance related; body kits, conversions, paint, lighting, alarms, car audio, washing, waxing, etc. New Members can post here.

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Old 10-15-2007, 03:43 PM   #61 (permalink)
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Yup.. thin 'er out.


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Old 10-15-2007, 05:58 PM   #62 (permalink)
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420
take pictures of the steps
you dont have to show before and after only
show us inbetween any anything you think would help us out

alot of people are interested in this
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Old 10-16-2007, 08:10 AM   #63 (permalink)
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are you cleaning the car in any way between wet sanding and applying the next coat of paint?
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Old 10-16-2007, 08:26 AM   #64 (permalink)
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are you cleaning the car in any way between wet sanding and applying the next coat of paint?
If I wet sand I just keep the whole thing wet and work it untill its smooth and then before I move on, I take the wet cloth and wipe the whole thing down so theres not residue left anywhere. Then I dry it with a towel before it can air dry and move on to the next piece the same way...then when Im done with it all, I take an old soft T shirt and just give it the once over with it (dry) to remove any dust that may have landed. Then the next coat of paint goes on and I wait 12 hours and do it all again.

If Im just inbetween coats and not set sanding then I move straight to the dry t shirt to just get it cleaned off from dust and paint the other coat on.

I ripped the pool down and started clearing the garage, because its getting colder and colder out, so my project has been pushed to the back corner which is un accessable to me at this time, but once this is all clear I will write up a start to finish for this thread from the beginning of the rest of the car. It wont be long I have been working on the garage non stop inbetween Class, Hw and the gym. Oh and I have been keeping the premixed paint I did in a old protein container I had laying around with the roller inside and I have used the same roller from day one...Just get it saturated right before you put the lid on what ever container you keep your paint in and its should last like mine.

alittle tip for anyone who has started when I get the roller out of the container I get a regular paint tray thing (clean) and roll it in there really hard to almost take all the paint out of the roller and I paint like that...So if Im rolling it on the bumper or skirts I have to PUSH down too to get paint to come out. That way you can keep layers very thin and eliminate runs and the paint will dry nice and hard.


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Old 10-16-2007, 09:27 AM   #65 (permalink)
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Just for that reflective paint, all the rest are looking fabulous.
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Old 10-16-2007, 06:36 PM   #66 (permalink)
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Yes, individual steps and pictures would be nice.

One thing to remember is that older cars were painted with oil based enamels from the factory. Once again, old technology becomes new again.

Also gloss black rustoleum matches extremely well with the black used on 95-99 eclipses. Perfect for touch-ups, no thinning required, just use a cotton swab.
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Old 10-16-2007, 08:14 PM   #67 (permalink)
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I tried this out on my hood today. 420 if you get a chance can you figure out the paint to mineral spirts ratio? I mixed mine today(2:1) and it did'nt seem like it wanted to mix very well. I used a foam brush for my hood vents which worked ok but like 420 stated the brush needs to be damp. To much paint makes a mess. After I wetsand tomarrow I will try to thin it out some more hopefully with better results.
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Old 10-17-2007, 06:42 AM   #68 (permalink)
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Hey guys,
I've been reading this thread for the past week, and I am in the middle of a rebuild project myself. I already had both of my front fenders off, body worked, and a few coats of primer. So I tired to start the 52$ paint job! I did take pictures of them primered, and I will take some pics tonigt when I get home of the 1st coat. my questions are:
1)did you guys use the foam brushes or rollers?
2)I read that all the little air bubbles go away "instantly", well I was working on my car for about an hour after I painted and there were still a decent amount of air bubbles. do you think I mixed to thick? I was probably about 2 parts paint to 1 part mineral spirits...It seemed decently thin @ the time.

Any suggestions or comments are welcome!
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Old 10-17-2007, 07:23 AM   #69 (permalink)
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I haven't actually started yet but the mopar thread says to use a foam roller and you can run it back over the bubbles to pop them after a minute, just be gentle.


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Old 10-17-2007, 09:04 AM   #70 (permalink)
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This thread is so interesting. Im going to research on how to paint 100% correctly and then go over my entire car the same Chrysler silver color, and the top still black.
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Old 10-17-2007, 09:05 AM   #71 (permalink)
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these are my first and second coat pictures. I used the foam rollers and a foam brush for the vents as you can see the first coat was mixed to thick and it turned out crappy. after wet sanding the second coat was applied which turned out better.
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Old 10-17-2007, 01:25 PM   #72 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by rconlon67 View Post
Hey guys,
I've been reading this thread for the past week, and I am in the middle of a rebuild project myself. I already had both of my front fenders off, body worked, and a few coats of primer. So I tired to start the 52$ paint job! I did take pictures of them primered, and I will take some pics tonigt when I get home of the 1st coat. my questions are:
1)did you guys use the foam brushes or rollers?
2)I read that all the little air bubbles go away "instantly", well I was working on my car for about an hour after I painted and there were still a decent amount of air bubbles. do you think I mixed to thick? I was probably about 2 parts paint to 1 part mineral spirits...It seemed decently thin @ the time.

Any suggestions or comments are welcome!
Hey your not to far away probably under an hour...im by kennywood but yea use rollers and I think you went to thick.

Also like stated above if theres any bubbles left just run the roller over them with out pressing down to smooth everything out.

As for mine I wet sanded last night and scratched the rear bumper during the whole pool/garage process and Was pissed but touched it up and now everything is out in the sun baking for alittle after the wetsand.

Im pulling the car intonight and starting the 2gb eclipsd conversion with 2gb talon Front end and then prepping the car tonight for the whole thing to take paint.


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Last edited by EclipseTrbo420A : 10-17-2007 at 02:27 PM.
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Old 10-17-2007, 07:21 PM   #73 (permalink)
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Ok so the bubbly paint was definiatly from it being 2 thin! anyone have a good mixture exactly set that they use?

and some pics of the progress:
Bodywork/prep/primer:
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/b...7/PA160001.jpg
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/b...7/PA160003.jpg
Coat 1(still wet)
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/b...7/PA160004.jpg
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/b...7/PA160009.jpg
coat 1 (dry, next evening)
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/b...7/PA170010.jpg
still coat 1 but what happens if too thin...
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/b...7/PA170012.jpg
Coat 2(sanded coat one kinda alot cause of bubble issues, but still wet)
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/b...7/PA170014.jpg
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/b...7/PA170013.jpg

De wont be able to make any updates tomorrow, but sometime this weekend expect pics of coats 3 & 4....

any comments(hopefully some tips) welcome...

P.S. coat 2 look about 200% better than coat 1 so far.......
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Old 10-17-2007, 08:39 PM   #74 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by rconlon67 View Post
Ok so the bubbly paint was definiatly from it being 2 thin! anyone have a good mixture exactly set that they use?

and some pics of the progress:
Bodywork/prep/primer:
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/b...7/PA160001.jpg
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/b...7/PA160003.jpg
Coat 1(still wet)
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/b...7/PA160004.jpg
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/b...7/PA160009.jpg
coat 1 (dry, next evening)
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/b...7/PA170010.jpg
still coat 1 but what happens if too thin...
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/b...7/PA170012.jpg
Coat 2(sanded coat one kinda alot cause of bubble issues, but still wet)
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/b...7/PA170014.jpg
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/b...7/PA170013.jpg

De wont be able to make any updates tomorrow, but sometime this weekend expect pics of coats 3 & 4....

any comments(hopefully some tips) welcome...

P.S. coat 2 look about 200% better than coat 1 so far.......
Nice but what color are you painting over? You might be putting to much on... the first couple coats should still be transparent...especially with a color like red. If thats the case your paint will take foreve to *fully* cure.. know what I mean? It may be dry to the touch, but underneth and when you buff, it will smear and leave swirls. Now this is not from experience but its just what I read looking over all the info from the internet. anyways the key is THIN coats! Again so I have read. Goodluck everyone and I got the garage cleared and set up all I can say is badass.


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Old 10-17-2007, 08:51 PM   #75 (permalink)
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If this stuff really works, i'll fix my paint on the Galant (2000+ mitsubishi top coat problem) and I can paint my car something better thna the stock red (I've never been a big Fan of red cars) I guess the hard part now is figuring out what color to paint it...I'd do black but then we'd have 2 black 2gb's in the family.

What's the mixing ratio? I read 2:1 water to Oil, but I thought someone said that wasn't right.
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Old 10-17-2007, 09:26 PM   #76 (permalink)
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Nice but what color are you painting over? You might be putting to much on... the first couple coats should still be transparent...especially with a color like red. If thats the case your paint will take foreve to *fully* cure.. know what I mean? It may be dry to the touch, but underneth and when you buff, it will smear and leave swirls. Now this is not from experience but its just what I read looking over all the info from the internet. anyways the key is THIN coats! Again so I have read. Goodluck everyone and I got the garage cleared and set up all I can say is badass.
He's painting over gray primer. So yeah... definitely too thick on the paint. That will be a problem down the road from what I've been reading and my own experience with other paints.

Quote:
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What's the mixing ratio? I read 2:1 water to Oil, but I thought someone said that wasn't right.
I hope that was just a slip-up. You don't use water you use mineral oil to cut the oil-based paint. The mix varies based on color according to the mopar thread. You want it just a little thicker than water. I'll experiment with the aluminum color and get back to you all on the mix ratio.


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Old 10-17-2007, 10:04 PM   #77 (permalink)
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Truthfully if this works out good someone should repost the Step by step with Before and after and see if we can get it a stciky
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Old 10-18-2007, 05:14 AM   #78 (permalink)
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He's painting over gray primer. So yeah... definitely too thick on the paint. That will be a problem down the road from what I've been reading and my own experience with other paints.
Crap, What kinda of problems might I experience? I definiatly have been taking my time, so I want to make sure I do this right the first time. at first I thought it was too thick so I went to a mixture of 2 parts mineral oil to 1 part paint. It was alot more clear/ thin like you had mentioned. I painted 1/2 of a fender, after an hour, there were still a million bubbles...maybe its the application tool I'm using, can someone post what they are using?

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...5-3&lpage=none

It says its a foam roller on the package....I am starting to think the roller is the issue..
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Old 10-18-2007, 05:59 AM   #79 (permalink)
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