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ARP Main stud ?s

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jhfgsx9d

15+ Year Contributor
35
0
Oct 1, 2003
Ok guys here is my delima im rebuilding my motor. I ordered a set of ARP Head studs and accidently recieved main studs ok no big deal hell ill use them so i put them in the motor and all went well there now im to putting the oil pump assembly on and have a ? about the pick up tube. We all know the pick up tube has a support that goes to the main bolt so now that i have installed the studs what do i do about the support? do i cut it off and leave it alone? do i modify the opening to fit the ARP studs and put a nut on the end?

Now for some interesting news i called buscher racing up to see what they suggested? first the guy that answered the phone was kinda shitty cause i didnt purchase the parts from them(why pay retail when you can get cost right?) so i asked the guy that answered the phone what they did and they(he) claims that they use ARP studs in all the holes but the one where the support goes he said that they use a stock main bolt ? kinda seems dumb to me to buy a set of studs and use all but that one right? im open to all suggestions on this matter and opinions on the main studs if anyone has any.

Thanks in advance,
John "TwIzTeD"
 
If I use ARP studs, I normally use a cutting wheel to cut a section out of the pickup support large enough to allow the ARP stud to fit into the stock location.

Some people just cut the support off all together.
 
I am running into the same problem. I drilled out the hole in the support and now it fits. But if I put a spacer on the stud similar to what the stock stud had the ARP stud is nolonger long enough. Maby ARP makes a longer stud? What do people like John Sephard do? other than run a dry sump set up to make the stock pick up work?
 
I actually ran into a post just like this on TeamNABR which Shep replied to. He said he just uses a 2g oil pick-up tube. Doesn't bolt to the main and is "beefier". I'll try to find a link for you. :thumb: I have also read that the arp's (main bolts) aren't as big in diameter as the stock fasteners which could lead to thrust bearing alignment issues. Personally I just bought all new factory main bolts a couple of weeks ago for my 6 bolt. I already have ARP's for the rod's and head though.

Peace,
Dustin :talon:
 
http://www.teamnabr.com/ubbpub/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=5;t=002097#000000

http://www.teamnabr.com/ubbpub/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=5;t=002097#000010

Check out the second link for a post from ShapeGSX for info about ARP main bolts. I'm not trying to tell you not to use ARP's... Plenty of people have used them with great success. But I'm not taking any chances with the alignment of the thrust bearing. I plan to put this engine together once. And ONCE only. Plus the stock main fasteners are beefy as shit. (and cheap) My opinion only of course, so take it for what it’s worth<---- not much really. :thumb:

Regards,
Dustin :talon:
 
My block was line bored and the way the caps are pressed into the block as every thing is bolted down I don't think any thing will be moving. Side to Side or up and down. Plus I only plan on runing a ACT 2600 clutch and the car won't make more than 400 hp cause it is basicly for auto-x.

ARP torque specs 60 ft-lbs

Stock torque specs 18 ft-lbs and then one turn 90 degrees.

"Hey main caps where you goin? NOWHERE!" Cause you don't want your crank to be like "Yo I'm 1/4 inch over here now" every time you push in the clutch.
 
John, I just had to do this on my engine. Cut the pickup support in half, cut a sliver out of it, and rewelded it back togather. If you need some pics, call me up :)

-Colin
 
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