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Changing valve stem seals [Merged 8-7]

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tbird

20+ Year Contributor
170
1
Nov 10, 2002
IndianaUS
I need some tips on how to change the valve seals... im gonna be doing this for a friend how much time can i expcent doing this. and what tools will be needed.....
 
check out :
http://www.vfaq.com

They have a tutorial on this. Your going to need to take off the valve cover, remove the camshafts, and remove the valve springs. You will need some type of valve spring compressor (home made or professional tool). Its really not a whole lot of work, but if you don't have the right tools, it can prove to be very time consuming, or impossible.
 
You need a C clamp style Valve Spring Compresser. I just took my head of and gave it to the machine shop. They cleaned it and replaced the seals for $20. They're cheap though. It might cost about $20-$40, its not much work for them.
 
What's up, guys? I will be replacing the valve seals in my car shortly, and I want to know the difficulty of changing them on these cars. I've changed valve seals on small block Chevrolets before (fairly easy), but I heard it's a pain in the ass with these. I've even heard it's best to take the cylinder head OFF to do this. I've browsed through DSMTuners.com tech threads, and read one on this subject, and it involved making a special tool to do the job. It really looks like a pain in the ass, and I'm wondering if there is another way to go about doing this. Is taking the cylinder head off making TOO much work for myself?

Thanks for your time

:talon:
 
It is not a easy job. It takes alot more to do so on the DSM than a Chevy.

I don't know what the tool is for. Maybe to help get the retainer cap back on. The shims can be a bi***. I never had to use a special tool to get it off. But, I never had to put the shims back in, the shop that decks my head does that.
 
midnght said:
It is not a easy job. It takes alot more to do so on the DSM than a Chevy.

I don't know what the tool is for. Maybe to help get the retainer cap back on. The shims can be a bi***. I never had to use a special tool to get it off. But, I never had to put the shims back in, the shop that decks my head does that.


So do you think I should just pull the head?
 
If you can find the tool to get the springs on without removing it, i say leave it on.


there is an easier way to remove the retainers than that. it is just alittle more "brutal" than most would use, but works just as good.
 
JaxTalonTSi said:
..... end up getting so pissed I'd take a sledgehammer to my cylinder head....

That is how you remove the springs :thumb:


I would just remove the head. Less stress and more room to work. It is pretty difficult to install the retainers with the head on.
 
midnght said:
JaxTalonTSi said:
..... end up getting so pissed I'd take a sledgehammer to my cylinder head....QUOTE]

That is how you remove the springs :thumb:


I would just remove the head. Less stress and more room to work. It is pretty difficult to install the retainers with the head on.

Thanks for the advice, buddy, I think I will. :)

:talon: :laser: :dsm:
 
Cost is about 20 bucks to make the tool to compress the valve springs yourself and about 10 bucks for the seals. The rest is time and labor.
 
hey guys i believe my valve stem seals went bad because puffs of blue smoke (oil)
comes out of my exhaust when my car comes to a stop and then pull away
but not when im driving it stops

my question is how hard is it to install new seals and do i really have to remove my head from the block and if i keep driving the car how bad this can get? :(
 
You mean the gasket/seals around the spark plug holes?

Sorry to say this but oil cant leak from your valve cover to your combustion chamber.
 
Alex_95TSI said:
You mean the gasket/seals around the spark plug holes?

Sorry to say this but oil cant leak from your valve cover to your combustion chamber.
He just might mean valve stem seals.

How many miles on the motor? It may be guide seals, or it may be rings, or it may be ?
 
Take off the head and take it to a head specialist, have them evaluate it. I got all new seals, guides, valves, hot tanked, and resurfaced all for just under 350$ :thumb: . While your in there check for block deck warpage, I believe anything under 0.005 inch (0.127mm) is acceptable. You do not wanna bolt down a resurfaced head to a warped block. Also check for obvious cracks in the block, extreme ridges in the CC, and check for piston play. You might want to go all out and do a bottom end rebuild with all new bearings, seals, pistons, and piston rings. Good Luck :)
 
i am in the process of upgrading my turbo because it took a dump in sept 04. upon removal of exhaust mani i saw that i also had bad stem seals. during the search i was pointed to a tool that can remove stem seals without having to take the head off.
http://dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=164239
post #5. and post #6 will give link to tool. i chose to take the head off anyway to do further work on it, but you might be able to rent/find someone with one if on a budget.
jim
 
well when i come to a stop i see smoke THiCK smoke come out the exhuast a mixture of whiteish and blushish smoke which could also indicate a blown headgasket
 
Hey when I build my head i made my own compressor. I used a 8" C-Clamp and i got a 13/16 spark plug socket (its what fit the valve the best) and cut a notch in the side of the socket so i can reach the retainers and I drilled and taped a hole on the c clamp and bolted the socket to the clamp. Worked like a champ!

If you dotn understand let me know.

Vic
 
im gonna have my school do a leakdown test to confirm what is bad either the headgasket or seals


my car has 100,013 miles on the clock

im thinking about selling and just getting another but thats my last resort
 
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