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Wilwood 6 piston brakes.Pics..

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95EclipseGST

20+ Year Contributor
406
1
Mar 1, 2002
Kansas City, Missouri
These brakes are awesome and Todd at TCE is very helpful with anything you may come across.These are 6 piston calipers with 12.2" rotors crossdrilled and slotted.I am getting the rear big brake kit in a few weeks from Tceperformance also and will post pics of them too.I drive like an idiot so i needed these for the front.The rear could just go with powerslots or something but im getting the wilwood ones for the rear bascally to match the front as far as looks.
 

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Damn...they look nice...how good do they perform?

Eventually I'm going to be getting StopTech 4 pistons all around hopefully 13.5" in the front...I think it will fit with my particular rims...but might have to go with 13"

How much better is 6pistons than 4?

But they do look nice, and I'm sure that they can put down some real good performance.
 
I broke these things in for a few hundred miles and then went testing them. I have never had 4 piston brakes so coming from stock warped rotors and almost no brake pads left..This is a huge difference.The pedal feels very direct and no mushy braking at all.Ive never driven a car that has the brake feel like these do.I went with the 12.2 Rotors so for any reason i ever put my 16" wheels back on.These brakes were $1260.00. So compared to any other brake kit out there for the money this is definately it.Aside of braking power they really compliment a set of rims and look good rolling you can read the wilwood across there and see the size of the calipers when the wheels get moving.Todd at TCE performance can answer almost any question and is super helpful.I thought after reading up on brakes for 6 months that i knew it all but todd definately educated me further about some things. These brakes are worth every penny.Im getting the rear kit with 12.2 rotors to match these and will post pics when i get em.Thanks
 
The photo makes it clear that as the wheel turns, the part of the slot that is touching the leading edge of the pad will move from outside to inside. This is the opposite of how PowerSlots go on, for example, but it is the same as some other high-quality slotted rotors that I've seen. I thought it was interesting that a product from someone like Todd pumps inwards. This goes a long way to convincing me that this is the way it should be and that PowerSlots are "backwards."

- Jtoby
 
The direction of slots has been debated for years. These are Wilwood off the shelf rotors and what's how they do them.

Me, I prefer the simle 'tic-tac-toe' pattern. Keeps both camps happy and even Carrol Smith stumbled upon it years ago...LOL

Personally I've never seen ANY difference in their effectiveness. Both wear pads faster and make your wheels dirty!

// on front
\\ on the back.
 
Hey, Todd!

Just so I have this Tic-Tac-Toe thing straight: is that view from the left or right? Do the fronts pump in and the rears out, or v.v.?

TIA

- Jtoby
 
TCE makes 12" rotors for the rear? I never knew that.

The last time I was on the site, it was down. :(

Now I know the more brakes you have up front, the less you'll need in the rear... But does anyone know of a caliper kit in which you can increase the size of the caliper out back? Say, to a 2-piston type?

Besides, the Porsche C4S has 13" rotors and 4 pot (?) calipers all around...
 
When a Porsche 911 is braking hard, it has something near 50/50 weight distribution, so it has the same brakes, front and rear.

When a DSM is braking, it's - what? - 80/20. Something awful. That's why you don't need and don't want much rear brake.

- Jtoby
 
I would so more like 70/30

I run 13" x 1" Baer's up front and baer stock replacements for the rear. Stops 100x's better

Go with some good pads with a little metal in them for that extra bite, my 02.cents
 
For Pads alone I'd highly recommend Porterfield Carbon/Kevlar Pads, I've been running them with new factory rotors and it feels like a brake upgrade just by using these. TCE makes some darn good brakes though, I've riden in Nick Drake's (NDGSX) car and those brakes grab, with no BS at all (he has the 4 piston calipers on the 12.2" rotors).

-Brady
 
I think I've lost track of the number different set ups I've put together for the DSM crowd. Some good, some not so good admitadly.

The current rear offerings fit to the 2 and 3G cars has the larger, vented 13 x .81 with a very nice and stout four piston caliper!

Now don't underestimate the requirement for rears either. The target is to keep the overall bias about where it is factory or shift a bit to the rear if you can keep the butt end on the ground. There is a lot more going on than static bias however when the car brakes so the best we can do is get static where we want it and see where 'dynamic' takes it. Some amount of reverse rake in the car can aide in braking as an example. Not saying that's the answer, just too many variables.
 
I think I've lost track of the number different set ups I've put together for the DSM crowd. Some good, some not so good admitadly.

The current rear offerings fit to the cars has the larger, vented 13 x .81 with a very nice, stout four piston caliper! Great pad selections not found on the stcok parts.

Now don't underestimate the requirement for rears either. The target is to keep the overall bias about where it is factory or shift a bit to the rear if you can keep the butt end on the ground. There is a lot more going on than static bias however when the car brakes so the best we can do is get static where we want it and see where 'dynamic' takes it. Some amount of reverse rake in the car can aide in braking as an example. Not saying that's the answer, just too many variables.
 
Originally posted by harryb
For Pads alone I'd highly recommend Porterfield Carbon/Kevlar Pads, I've been running them with new factory rotors and it feels like a brake upgrade just by using these. TCE makes some darn good brakes though, I've riden in Nick Drake's (NDGSX) car and those brakes grab, with no BS at all (he has the 4 piston calipers on the 12.2" rotors).

-Brady

Was that in the black 91? billet calipers with tan pads
The 90 during early summer? billet calipers with tan pads
Late summer? forged calipers with tan pads
or the beginning of September? forged calipers with polymatrix F pads
 
The forged caliper has surely proven to be the more popular choice. But for the six if you can swing the cost.

The BSL has just not held up the the level of use/abuse some have put it through on this car.

When the Tan pads, a very mild street pad, are combined with the package the performance doesn't come near the level of the other pads such as the J (not F) whre the Cf goes up from about .42 to .57.
 
Originally posted by NDgsx
Was that in the black 91? billet calipers with tan pads
The 90 during early summer? billet calipers with tan pads
Late summer? forged calipers with tan pads
or the beginning of September? forged calipers with polymatrix F pads

Black 91 as well as the 90 in the late summer. Both performed damn well though.

-Brady
 
Originally posted by Turbo Shogun


Now I know the more brakes you have up front, the less you'll need in the rear...
Not true, you need to maintain a good balance. Plus if you add stiffer springs or shocks you will need more rear brake because of the less weight distribution to the front under heavy braking, if you upgraded the fronts.
 
Originally posted by Todd TCE
When the Tan pads, a very mild street pad, are combined with the package the performance doesn't come near the level of the other pads such as the J (not F) whre the Cf goes up from about .42 to .57.

Yeah that's what they are, I can't read the box anymore it's all covered in brake dust :).
I'm definetly getting something else after the tan pads wear out. Maybe I'll just get the Qs since I hate cleaning my street wheels.
 
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