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Me+GM MAFT+DSMlink=Huge headache. WI DSM'ERS PLEASE HELP ME!!!

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thekyguy11

15+ Year Contributor
115
3
Oct 4, 2004
H Town, Wisconsin
OK, I've spent HOURS trying to get this damn talon to run properly and the more I play around with the different settings, the more it seems I am just going in circles. Here are my "related" mods

PTE 3255e turbo
large fmic, 2.5in piping
gm-maf and maft
950cc FIC injectors
255 lph
afpr @ 43.5
crower 3/4 race cams
LC-1
Dsmlink

The problem is that it goes way rich under boost and stutters and sometimes even shows knock, and I have no idea if any of the airflow settings are correct. The only thing that has been beautiful all along is the idle. Because I feel like I have accomplished nothing in the last three days of driving around and trying to get it to work, I would like to pretend like I am starting it up for the very first time with this setup and if someone could go through the process of doing an initial setup (MAFT settings, DSMLink settings, etc) that would be phenomenal. Also, anyone in the Milwaukee area with a decent amount of experience with dsmlink, please come to my rescue. Thanks.
 
If you have dsmlink then you have access to the forums. Go in there and search for tuning GM Maft. A member posted a very easy way to calibrate the airflow sliders for the gm maft. Very simple to do and you can't mess up.
 
Hey where in Wisconsin do you live? I live in Hartland. I have dsmlink and a gm-maft set up and it took a bit to get it to work properly. If you can get onto the dsmlink forums they have great threads to help you.

Without a WBO2 or a 3-BAR Map sensor it is hard to get it set properly. It took me awhile and I have a wideband. Again if you can get on the dsmlink forum, its the best help regarding dsmlink that you can get.

Without a WBO2 or a 3-Bar map, the easiest way to tune it is to log maf raw and boost estimate in dsmlink to match the actual boost you are running. If the estimated boost is too high, subtract airflow. If its too low, add airflow. Use the maf raw reading to know where to adjust your airlfow table. This works for WOT.

For idle tuning get your grams per rev to be roughly .28. Yours may be higher because of the cams but it shouldnt be over .30. If it is higher than .30 subtract airflow at the 50hz range.

I hope that helps.
 
Kmiller86 said:
For idle tuning get your grams per rev to be roughly .28. Yours may be higher because of the cams but it shouldnt be over .30. If it is higher than .30 subtract airflow at the 50hz range.

That is correct as long as you don't have any vaccum leaks otherwise it can screw up the numbers.
 
Okay this is a pull we did today after we set up the MAFT air settings correctly. We already knew of the "EASY" MAFT setup and were following step by step. We have a LC-1 WBO2 connected to dsmlink. We were going through the process of setting up the Airflow settings but when we got to the wide open throttle tests, we started having fuel cuts during 3rd gear pulls. I thought I'd save this log and post it. Keep in mind, we started completely over... reset everything.. all fuel values were zeroed out. Only changes made at the moment were made to the Airflow settings.

Fuel pressure = 43.5
Deadtime = 315
Global = -53%

I later leaned out the fuel from 3000-7500 10% where it was getting rich during pulls. This helped for a pull or two but still we experienced fuel cuts and random large knock spikes... of 7-9 degrees at the least... Still during positive manifold pressure A/F ratios got rich.

We have a new alternator, new spark plugs, new knock sensor from a 1g Tsi that is in working condition.

We are trying to get the correct ltft-lo and ltft-mid, but for some reason, the values won't change, even when we adjust the airflow at the corresponding hz levels the suggested amount.

I have this also posted in DSMLink but we are under a major time crunch, so I wanted to get answers from as many places as possible.
 

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This happened to me when I started to set up the Maft. I had to lean everything out on the fuel settings roughly 20%. Once that was done I adjusted the airlfow correctely. My Airflow table is way off for what a Maft is supposed to look like, but my boost est and calculated a/f are correct with real boost and a/f ratio.

1) lean out so the wb readings are more reasonable
2) then adjust the airflow to match
 
yea, that does sound like a good idea. I'm starting to get a hang of how these settings are supposed to be after I looked at that last log for a while. I'll play with it some more and post results. Thanks for the great suggestion.
 
Make sure everything is correctly zero'd out on your maft. I know there was a kid on here that had everything set to zero when the maft is required that you set one of the knobs to something other than zero so that it's set for 450's as all zero'd out literaly is for 350cc injectors which are stock on auto turbo cars.
 
Yup, I've got Aux-4 Base-2 Idle-0 Mid-0 Wot-0 and all the dip switches off. I made some changes in the airflow table again, this time I believe I interpereted the MAFT calibration directions correctly as my last 3rd gear pull was 100% better than it was previously. No knock, and it didnt start stuttering till 6500, but I think more adjustments will allow it to make it to 7500. Unfortunately, during that last pull it sounded like something in the drivetrain gave out, I am going to take a look at it today, and hopefully it's not too serious.
 
I just read about the Gen2 MAFT, wish that one would have been out when we got the one for this car :cry:
 
Sounds like you have this problem figured out

the MAF's vary so much from sensor to sensor, its hard to belive that GM cars could run predictably with them LOL

once you get the maf to give correct airflow readings (by adjusting those airflow sliders) it's all down hill :)

hopefuly nothin major went bad under the car!
 
TargeT said:
the MAF's vary so much from sensor to sensor, its hard to belive that GM cars could run predictably with them LOL

It's not the MAFs that read unpredictably - it is the translator.ROFL And they only read off in blowthrough config, they are pretty much exact in drawthrough. I have been through several GM MAF's, and I have never had to adjust my airflow settings after the initial calibration. When I went from 3" to 3.5", all I had to do was flip the switch.
 
It's amazing how much you learn in such a short time. Since my last post I have purchased dsmlink messed around with it and asked enough questions to figure out your problem. You have 950's just like me and your dead time and global calibrations are off. Go on the forums and find the post I started and you will see that a guy gave me the answer that I think your lookin for as well. :thumb:
 
Correct me if I'm wrong but he said he was using a knock sensor form a 1G TSI. From everything I have heard the 1G sensor is incompatible and infearior to a 2G. Could this also be a problem? I would think switching back to a 2G knock sensor would help also.
 
awdtalontsi1992 said:
Correct me if I'm wrong but he said he was using a knock sensor form a 1G TSI. From everything I have heard the 1G sensor is incompatible and infearior to a 2G. Could this also be a problem? I would think switching back to a 2G knock sensor would help also.

No if this were true then 2g guys would be able to monitor knock like 1g's guys.
 
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