The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Whats happening?

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

tsiawdspeed

20+ Year Contributor
39
0
Mar 29, 2002
Savage/Winona, Minnesota
I have very few mods, filter, boost gauge, free mods, and I have this problem. In second gear at WOT, it seams like the computer is pulling timing for some reason untill boost starts to drop off. It isnt that bad, it just seams a lot slower than it should be. It still pulls really hard. The thing it does is the acceleration is not very linear, like the acceleration rate slows down sometimes. Im running 14 psi on the stock BOV. Could it just be the BOV leaking or is it most likely my BCS malfunctioning. Does anyone know how to test th stock BCS? I looked in my Chiltons and it did not say anything concerning a wastegate or a BCS. I also always use 92 octane. Any ideas?
 
Then why does my boost gauge say 14 psi? Are you saying that it leaks a little at 12 psi or enough to drop boost significantly?
 
Most DSM's that I have driven have this problem from time to time. You probobly always had it but you are getting used to the way your car feels and noticing it more. I usually feel it on a nice long 3rd gear pull. I've noticed from my friends datalogger the computer likes to play with the timing a LOT on these cars.
 
I just installed my boost gauge. Could it have anything to do with that? The only thing that i could think of is that my fpr isnt getting enough pressure from the solenoid because of a leak in the tap and it is running lean, knocking, and pulling timing. Any ideas?
 
If you installed the boost gauge correctly, it will not effect performance and I would not bother to dive into a FPR theory, I don't think your problem lies there.

A few things to remember with a 2G:
-You can't replace your plugs enough, in your case use NGK BPR-6ES
-A 2g isn't worth a crap until you get rid of that stock UIC pipe restriction
and leaking BOV.
-You can't check for boost leaks enough. Make yourself a leak checker and I promise you will find leaks, you will never see these leaks on the gauge.

I remember when I replaced my UIC and BOV, MAN! I thought my car was the SH*% !!!
 
Exaclty I started a thread in 2.0 performance about a leak test you should look it up and read on it. I have 3 leaks. OMG

Later,
 
I already have a 1G BOV and im ordering a UICP tomorrow. The plugs and wires are 3 months old. Would the uicp and bov solve my problem or will that just make a huge improvement? Im also going to make a leak tester very soon.
 
Well, both, to a point. The BOV mod. is really just a boost leak fix more then a "performance" mod. The UIC replacement is the performance part. Repairing boost/vac leaks solves all sorts of stuff from sputtering performance to bad idle.

You should never upgrade instead of troubleshooting normally, but the BOV is just a POS and in itself may be the problem. Replacing the BOV and performing leak check/fix will give you a good starting point to troubleshoot if the problem persists.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top