A taste of whats coming... - Page 4

DSMcrazy3 · 01-30-2006, 02:35 PM

Hell yeah man..Great to hear that it isn't nearly as bad as suspected!! Congradulations!

Randomrage · 01-30-2006, 02:40 PM

Thanks a mil dude. Its a big weight off my shoulders, thats for sure. I couldnt even sleep last night.

payup · 01-30-2006, 02:43 PM

That is one sweet project you got going there. Hope everything is well with the car. I can buy one of these cars with a stage one turbo kit, but it is blown up and I dont have the time, but it sure would be sweet to have a car like this.

Props for a sweet build

ninjai_ruken · 01-30-2006, 03:07 PM

lookin good

Randomrage · 01-30-2006, 04:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ninjai_ruken

lookin good

Hey, I see you have the HKS SSQV also. Does yours flutter at low boost?

selmerguy · 01-30-2006, 04:21 PM

are you sure it's fuel cut? try tighting all your couplers again.

Randomrage · 01-30-2006, 04:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by selmerguy

are you sure it's fuel cut? try tighting all your couplers again.

My couplers? You think maybe I have a boost leak?

selmerguy · 01-30-2006, 05:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Randomrage

My couplers? You think maybe I have a boost leak?

yes. i don't know why but for along time when i would ease into the throttle it would studder. but when i tightened the couplers it worked great

ninjai_ruken · 01-30-2006, 06:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Randomrage

Hey, I see you have the HKS SSQV also. Does yours flutter at low boost?

Do you have the newer model SSQV? I guess the newer ones do not have an adjustable spring rate. Mine does not flutter at all. Now the SSQV is a dual stage pull type BOV. Mine has never fluttered at low boost. It should release excess boost only when there is a pressure alteration in the chambers. And not by the rate of boost pressure or vacuum in the line. Now it might be that because the SSQV incorporates both a small primary valve for quick activation, and a larger secondary valve for additional discharge capacity. That might be were your flutter is coming from. Or there could be something wrong with your BOV. Now that I think about it mine did flutter a little at low boost. But I hardly ever noticed it. My car is all torn apart and its been that way since last fall. I have older model HKS BOV so who knows. I am prob getting a different style when the rebuild is complete

Randomrage · 01-30-2006, 06:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by selmerguy

yes. i don't know why but for along time when i would ease into the throttle it would studder. but when i tightened the couplers it worked great

Ok, Ill ask em to check into that for me, thanks!

Randomrage · 01-30-2006, 06:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ninjai_ruken

Do you have the newer model SSQV? I guess the newer ones do not have an adjustable spring rate. Mine does not flutter at all. Now the SSQV is a dual stage pull type BOV. Mine has never fluttered at low boost. It should release excess boost only when there is a pressure alteration in the chambers. And not by the rate of boost pressure or vacuum in the line. Now it might be that because the SSQV incorporates both a small primary valve for quick activation, and a larger secondary valve for additional discharge capacity. That might be were your flutter is coming from. Or there could be something wrong with your BOV. Now that I think about it mine did flutter a little at low boost. But I hardly ever noticed it. My car is all torn apart and its been that way since last fall. I have older model HKS BOV so who knows. I am prob getting a different style when the rebuild is complete

Yeah, I have a new one, and it doesnt have the set screw.

It only flutters now (thanks to the awesome advice I got in this thread about the vaccum lines) at 0lbs or less, but I was just curious. When I hit boost and let off or shift or whatnot, it makes a nice whistle. Its apparently just valve flutter from the bov itself (like you said with the primary valve), but I didnt know if everybody had it or not. I kinda like the sound, and fluttering at 0lbs of boost is not a problem.

Good luck getting your car back together!

Randomrage · 02-01-2006, 10:39 AM

Got her back today, runs a lot better than she did, but still rich (I think). It backfires nearly every time I let off the gas while in gear. XD

Hopefully my new plugs dont foul before I get it tuned this weekend.

Oh, and I burnt up my first Tial wastegate gasket already. D'oh!

Randomrage · 02-02-2006, 05:38 PM

Im going to order some of those metal "fire ring" wastegate gaskets asap.

Anyway, checked all the couplings, dont have a noticable boost leak. I also searched around, and found that fuel cut feels like "hitting a wall," so maybe its not that at all.

At ~3500-4000 the car just stops accelerating as fast, seems to bog down even. I think my missing link may still be an issue, but Im not exactly sure what its supposed to do as boost increases.

Help me, o great NT with T tuners!

DSMcrazy3 · 02-02-2006, 08:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Randomrage

At ~3500-4000 the car just stops accelerating as fast, seems to bog down even. I think my missing link may still be an issue, but Im not exactly sure what its supposed to do as boost increases.

In my opinion, I would sell the missing link..I hear so many people complain about them messing up, or some thing about the filter. I KNOW I KNOW before anyone goes saying.."well I've had mine for x amount of time and haven't had problems" that some people don't have a problem with it. I've never seen any complaints about FCD though. I'm not sure of the cost differences..It just seems better.

Maybe someone with one could enlighten us..

VelocitàPaola · 02-03-2006, 02:41 PM

The upside I see is that everything is electronic with an FCD. You leave no room for mechanical failure this way.

Good thing us 95's don't need anything to control MAP signals...

An FCD is a really simple device though. In fact, I could make an FCD for under $10... all it is, is a voltage regulator. I actually just found a variable voltage regulator from a new circuit manufacturer online.

It's funny this came up, because I was thinking to myself, "what could I make out of a var. volt. reg.?"

It'd be pretty cool if anyone's interested. You could pinpoint where you want the ECU to stop reading MAP voltage - 4.60V? 4.65V? 4.70V? Whatever you want, just turn of the knob a little.

Randomrage · 02-03-2006, 03:37 PM

FCD sounds like a good idea. Ive got the ML working good for now, but if its going to be problematic, Im going to get rid of it.

Now if I can just fix this horrible exhaust leak (stupid Tial wastegate gaskets) I think Ill be good to go until rebuild time.

The forged goodies piggy bank has been started!

Talon ESI-T · 02-04-2006, 10:03 AM

The best way to try and run the 450cc injectors is to use a SFMU so you can lower the Static and Idle pressure. An SAFC would be a good idea to fine tune with but many have reported that it wasnt reqd when using the SFMU.

I ran 450cc injectors on mine and achieved a good idle that was only a small amount richer than stock. My problem was during startup the factory ECU could detect the SAFC and it would throw a map code on cold start up only. If I shut down and cleared the code and restarted, the ECU wouldnt care. Some 97+ have an issue with the SAFC some dont.

For the money you spend on SFMU, and SAFC, you could buy a used 8 inj or New MS setup.

Terry

Randomrage · 02-04-2006, 11:52 AM

Well, I finally got on it hard some today, only to find out my car wont make but 4lbs of boost, and its slower than it was NT after 4000rpms!

XMasta19 · 02-04-2006, 01:49 PM

ruh rohz...

explain the symptoms......boost leak?

Randomrage · 02-04-2006, 02:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by XMasta19

explain the symptoms......boost leak?

Thats all of them. It builds boost fine, but stops at 4lbs, no matter what gear or rpm. And it accelerates good, up until 4000 rpm, when it gets slow as balls.