The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support ExtremePSI
Please Support ExtremePSI

Intake manifold removal

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

imbuedvoid

Probationary Member
7
0
Mar 17, 2014
maimi, Florida
Hello everyone. I must admit, pretty amazing forum. I am new and looking forward to being part of the community. I am having a difficult time removing my intake manifold. I know it has 8 bolts and two brackets holding up from the bottom. I remove the brackets and I remove 7 of the bolts. Problem is, I can't take off the 8th bolt that is towards the bottom right corner of the manifold(from the bottom view). It has some type of metal casing which is, I believe covering the alternator. Am I suppose to remove that case to be able to remove that last bolt? Thanks for any help or tips possible. Thank you
 
Glad you got it figured out!

Everything worked fine. I was able to replace my gaskets but now I have a weird problem. I was having difficulty taking out the whole intake manifold and maybe I did something wrong. I accidently broke a plastic rubbing from something that is connected to the egr. I'm not sure what it is. And when I put everything back to its place. I turn on my car and my car is always at under 1000 rpm at idle. Out of no where my car doesn't leave 2000+ rpms in parking, and drive gears. I don't know if it's the throttle wire that I messed up. The plastic tube that is causing that or idk what it is. I thought it was the throttle but I can't find a screw or something to adjust my acceleration. I am worried because this is my daily driven. Thank you
 
You need to make sure the wires to the TPS, CAS, and MAP sensor are intact and verify that the broken piece is not from them.

2GNT.com - Sensor_locations

It would really help if you could figure out what you broke though.
 
You need to make sure the wires to the TPS, CAS, and MAP sensor are intact and verify that the broken piece is not from them.

2GNT.com - Sensor_locations

It would really help if you could figure out what you broke though.

It is an EGR pressure return line I believe. It's like a plastic vacuum hose. I been working on the car today. And I have managed to bring down the rpms because I had one sensor thay was not well placed. Provlem is, my idle is back to normal but it is still unstable. And with this hole problem. Now my car over heats. -.- big mess but I'll manage to fix that. Maybe it's because I had a flimsy little paper plastic type of gasket and I put a fellow gasket on it now? I don't know. I am working on the car this very moment. But take you. I will check out the sensors. Maybe they are bad.
 
If everything was working before you took it apart, and now it's not, the chances of the sensors suddenly being bad is unlikely. The most likely case is that something didn't get plugged back in.

The EGR Vacuum Line being unplugged is the cause of your idle issue. It won't affect drive ability too much but I would fix it as soon as you can.

However, that line being plugged in to the EGR should NOT be causing the car to overheat. At all. Completely unrelated.

Are you sure you plugged the temp sensor back in? That could cause the fans not to come on and the car to overheat. Also, did the heater hoses and throttle body coolant lines get hooked back up properly?
 
If everything was working before you took it apart, and now it's not, the chances of the sensors suddenly being bad is unlikely. The most likely case is that something didn't get plugged back in.

The EGR Vacuum Line being unplugged is the cause of your idle issue. It won't affect drive ability too much but I would fix it as soon as you can.

However, that line being plugged in to the EGR should NOT be causing the car to overheat. At all. Completely unrelated.

Are you sure you plugged the temp sensor back in? That could cause the fans not to come on and the car to overheat. Also, did the heater hoses and throttle body coolant lines get hooked back up properly?

I will leave the idle as it is. It's not as bad as I thought. I fixed the egr vacuum line. Now the heating, I simply believe it's my radiator. I'll be purchasing a new one very soon because this is a constant problem and I even took out thermostat. Thanks a lot for all the help. Wish they had that thing that I can thumbs up you or like increase your reputation. Haha
 
Put the thermostat back in. Without a thermostat the car is guaranteed to overheat. Go buy a Stant Superstat for about $8. One less maintenance item to do later. Just get the stock temp rating which I believe is 195 on a 420a.
 
Put the thermostat back in. Without a thermostat the car is guaranteed to overheat. Go buy a Stant Superstat for about $8. One less maintenance item to do later. Just get the stock temp rating which I believe is 195 on a 420a.

Really appreciate the help. I will let you know if it gets fixed. Thanks a lot.
 
Why exactly would the car over heat more without the thermostat?? That's not how it works at all bro! All the thermostat does is regulate the temp of the motor. On a cold engine the thermostat is closed allowing the coolant in the block to warm up faster or not cycle thru the system. Then once the motor gets hotter and the thermostat's wax inside it starts to melt it allows the valve to start opening. Once open it allows the water to flow thru the radiator to cool and keep the engine at its operating temp. So running without a thermostat will actually cause the engine to run cooler or take longer to heat up, which isn't always a good thing. By letting the engine warm up as quickly as possible, the thermostat reduces engine wear, deposits and emissions.
 
Why exactly would the car over heat more without the thermostat?? That's not how it works at all bro! All the thermostat does is regulate the temp of the motor. On a cold engine the thermostat is closed allowing the coolant in the block to warm up faster or not cycle thru the system. Then once the motor gets hotter and the thermostat's wax inside it starts to melt it allows the valve to start opening. Once open it allows the water to flow thru the radiator to cool and keep the engine at its operating temp. So running without a thermostat will actually cause the engine to run cooler or take longer to heat up, which isn't always a good thing. By letting the engine warm up as quickly as possible, the thermostat reduces engine wear, deposits and emissions.

That's mostly true, but a thermostat also serves as a restriction to impede coolant flow and keep coolant in the radiator longer, thus allowing the coolant enough time to dissipate enough heat. Without that restriction there, the coolant will flow through the radiator without having that heat removed. Because of this, and although the car will take a long time to warm up, the car will eventually overheat.

The only exceptions to this rule are track cars that see WOT constantly. Those cars do not need that restriction there and need maximum coolant flow. Most cars still have a gutted thermostat (Just the ring) portion there to impeded some flow however.

The only reason to run without a thermostat on a street car is to test to see if the radiator or heater core is clogged, while removing the thermostat as a potential cause. It shouldn't ever be driven like that though.

Also, it's "through" not "thru."
 
If you say so bro! Im not sure its fact but there is some theory behind it I'm sure. I've seen tons of guys out here run with no thermostat and have not one issue. It's like the backyard mechanic rule of thumb out here I think LOL. One guy say oy my truck stay overheating brah. Other guy say take the dakine out brah ya know the dakine thermostat LOL!! Pressure is regulated by the radiator cap. So even if you take the thermostat out and the system is at proper fill level its not going to flow any more than with the thermostat and it shouldn't build any higher pressure unless the cap is bad! Make sense? This is what I found on a quick search! "An engine without a thermostat will flow too much coolant and can erode the radiator and heater core. The increased velocity of the coolant flow can easily wear through the thin metal tubes. This is far worse in a dirty system, full of abrasives, from lack of care. Too much flow can also hamper cooling, as the coolant does not remain in the radiator as long and may give off less heat. So you have some good points but notice it says it may give of less heat." Doesn't say it absolutely is going to cause overheating it says may, unless of course the system starts to fail then of course there will be heating issues! Anyway not trying to argue with you about anything, and not saying to go out and remove the thermostat or anything! Lol
 
If you say so bro! Im not sure its fact but there is some theory behind it I'm sure. I've seen tons of guys out here run with no thermostat and have not one issue. It's like the backyard mechanic rule of thumb out here I think LOL. One guy say oy my truck stay overheating brah. Other guy say take the dakine out brah ya know the dakine thermostat LOL!! Pressure is regulated by the radiator cap. So even if you take the thermostat out and the system is at proper fill level its not going to flow any more than with the thermostat and it shouldn't build any higher pressure unless the cap is bad! Make sense? This is what I found on a quick search! "An engine without a thermostat will flow too much coolant and can erode the radiator and heater core. The increased velocity of the coolant flow can easily wear through the thin metal tubes. This is far worse in a dirty system, full of abrasives, from lack of care. Too much flow can also hamper cooling, as the coolant does not remain in the radiator as long and may give off less heat. So you have some good points but notice it says it may give of less heat." Doesn't say it absolutely is going to cause overheating it says may, unless of course the system starts to fail then of course there will be heating issues! Anyway not trying to argue with you about anything, and not saying to go out and remove the thermostat or anything! Lol

You are not sure if what I said was true, but a quick google search reveals that I was...do you read what you post?

I'm sure your "backyard mechanic" friends did a whole bunch of research before coming to the conclusion that removing the thermostat is a good idea, he said with heavy sarcasm.

Also, while a thermostat cap regulates the MAX pressure a cooling system runs at, pressure =/= flow. Think of a hose with your finger over it. Even though there is more pressure, your finger is blocking some of the flow, so it actually flows more water with your finger removed.

Bottom Line: Run a Thermostat.
 
I am merely stating the reasons why I don't value your opinion. Also, it is a site rule that you use proper grammar and punctuation, so if you won't do it to not sound ignorant, do it because of that.

Your hose argument is ridiculous. Comparing a regular hose to a pressure washer is apples to oranges and has no bearing here.

And AGAIN no, even with more pressure, it doesn't necessarily mean more flow, as I stated earlier. An obstruction in the hose limits the flow, but increases pressure. In that case, as the size of the obstruction increases, the pressure increases, but flow and volume actually decreases. It doesn't matter how long the pressure stays higher, the object is continually limiting the final flow of the hose.

I'm tired of arguing with you though. Enjoy your 4th grade sentence structure bro guy dude.

Good luck with the original problem OP. Sorry this went on so long.
 
Ya im a duuhghh fouwrth gwaydar ! I no can speak engwish owwwrr speeeewwwwlll ### some guy in missirrryy Sayyss soo!!! Duuhghh dirrgh :barf: WTF :confused::ohdamn: dirrgh hmm last time I checked you had to use a hose to run a pressure washer so why is my comparison so crazy LOL! Its a perfect example! But I don't care neither does anyone else so just shut up already!



There's a very simple way you can test your theory. Get a bottle you use to spray pesticides around the house. Pressurize it, let it all spray out. Time how long it takes to empty.


Take the restrictor or sprayer nozzle off the end of the hose, do the same thing again. Time it.



Do it, post back the results here. I bet you $100 the bottle empties faster with no restriction than it does with. Paypal ready.
 
Thanks a lot for the help guys. I Will Be Purchasing A New Thermostat and A New radiator As Soon As possible. Please don't argue on the forums. No need for the bullshit. Thank you.
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top