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special_K86

20+ Year Contributor
92
0
Jan 14, 2003
What am i going to need to get a new engine? I'm not talking about all other stuff, just the block. At the end of this year i was planning on getting a new engine, well actually a rebuild. I was thinking of getting one from rpmextreme or slowboyracing, but is the block all i need? Thanks for helping.- Kevin
 
This question is pretty vague but I'll give it a shot. A new block and head will give you much better, smoother, trouble free running than just buying a block. Also, you should get a new water pump, oil pump w/new front case, thermostat, O2 sensor and look into a new alternator/battery combo. Hope that helps.
 
Well after reading what i first wrote, i seem kinda confused what i was trying to say. But what exactly does the block consist of? Like does it include the head or what? If i buy a pre-built block, do i need to buy a pre-built head? Thank you for the info on that stuff 91 NT. - Kevin
 
What i was thinking about getting is the the pre-built block at rpmextreme and the head from them. And i was going to go with crower stage 2 cams. Is that all i would need besides all that other stuff 91 NT said up there? Thanks- Kevin
 
I have yet another question to ask. So at rpmextreme for the block is says Short Block Bore .020, or .040. What does that stuff mean? And what will it do for me? Thanks again. - Kevin
 
A rebuilt short block or "block" consists usually of the main block, the crank, new bearings, reconditioned rods and new pistons and rings. Along with old timing sprockets and old timing front face with new gaskets. That's about it.

You will need a TON more then what 91 NT said. I'm sure that isn't even 1/4 of the list of sh*t you will need. But you can always use old parts that aren't too mechanical.

Be sure to get new timing accesories.

btw - those are just bore sizes and are just how much the machine shop "scrapes" away from your combustion chamber walls in order to make it smooth. The smaller the overbore, the less of a displacement you will have. Yet if you want a higher displacement, go with the biggest overbore. Be warned though, the largest one IS the largest and if your block breaks within the combustion chamber, then you are f*cked.
 
what 91 NT listed are some of the things I would definitely replace in building a new block (and is also standard for most shops as they put a new alternator, oil & water pump in my car when they put a nwe engine in). If you're pulling parts off the current engine (if you have one) then you won't need as much as you normally would. your best bet, if you're not building the bottom end or internals up, is to get an engine from a reputable dealer that has all that stuff already built onto it. It's much faster and less troublesome that way (as most places will warranty their engines pretty good)
 
I'm going N/A with my car. So is the head seperate from the block? If i buy the new block, should i also buy a new head? The block i plan on getting has built up internals. This is what it says:

Race/Street Short Block 2.0L Mitsubishi Eclipse 95-99 420A
Included:

Block DOHC
New Special Wiseco Pistons 8.5:1, 10.5:1 12:1 w/Rings
New Eagle Rods
New Water Pump, Seals
New Clevitte 77 Berings
Block Bored On precision Stand And 2 Step Torque Plate Honed
Hot Tank Block
Precision Grind Crank Shaft If Necessarry
New Front Case With New Oil Pump
Price $1,599
Short Block Bore .020, .040
Price $1,699

And i do have my stock engine so i can transfer some of the other nessesities other then the actual engine. But The thing i'm confused about do i still need to buy a new head? If so this is what i would get:

Race/Street Head 2.0L Mitsubishi Eclipse 95-99 420A
Included:
Head DOHC
Reconditioned Cyl Head With Competition 3 Angle Valve Jod
Resurfase Cyl Head
New Ferrea Stainless Steel Valve
Stock springs and Retainer
Stock Cams


Price $829
Add Crower Spring & Titanum Retainers
Price $1,115

and like i said earlier i'm going with the crower stage 2 cams. Am i heading in the right direction with this? Thanks for the info so far.- Kevin
 
Yeah, you need a new head too. You don't want a beast block and stock head, its kinda contradicatory. Just get the stuff I listed and the block and head and you'll be set with a sweeeeeet setup.:cool: Good luck.:dsm:
 
For the head, port and polish job on the ports and a 3 or 5 angle valve job with high lift cams...

That's good for increased air flow.
 
where did you get the price on that block assembly. im building a 1g bottom end and thats not a bas price from the ones ive seen. thanx
 
I got all the prices from www.rpmextreme.com , Thats where i'm planning on buy my engine. I've compared them to howell and slowboy racing and rpm has had the best prices. Hope that helped. - Kevin
 
some places are just expensive. if you think there expensive you should see the prices at FFWD connection. just depends on who does the work and how good it is. all these guys are good but some just flat out can charge that much because they know there that good. thats basically how it works.well thats only said behind closed doors from buisness to buisness. the stuff they do doesnt cost them a fraction to do. but hey, they have to feed there familys dont they.:thumb:
 
I guess I'm just a bit paranoid about ordering from companies with less reputation than others (not bad rep, just less feedback).

If you had the money and had to buy a 420A block, who would you choose? hehe...
 
all honesty i would choose howell or slowboy. for 2 reasons

1. more feedback means more poeple have done buisness with them. thats always a plus.

2. they seem to me to be more recognized and have more experience since they have been recognized. theyve been there qand done that before and they know how to do it.

i will always go with the guy whos been in buisness for a while over a new buisness. nothing against then new guy, but the experience counts A LOT.
 
Yeah i know not to many people have heard of rpm, but hey every company had to start out like that. I've only heard from 3 people who have gotten blocks from rpm and they said they haven't had any problems and they love it.- kevin
 
Are there any other places that sell engine blocks pre-built. I know of howell, slowboy, rpmextreme, and race engineering, but are there any others? Thanks- Kevin
 
buschurracing.com
FFWDCONNECTION.COM( darren is a great guy)
importperformanceparts.ner
theres a couple more i can dig up if needed.
 
Any of them in Texas.......the shipping costs are going to kill me budget really bad, specially is I order from Slowboy or Howell, or rpm....LOL
 
build it yourself. its mad easy. just find a local welder that does just stupid stuff and find a local machie shop, tae the fron case and get it welded for the balance shaft removal, bore the bloc over however much you want and get it hot tanked, then asemble as normal. its pretty easy as long as you have all the torque specs.
 
i forgt, when you remover he balance shafts leave the stubby little shaft with the gear in the block so yo can hook up the little gear that runs off the timing belt. if you take it out youll need a shorter timing belt and thats not good. leving it in lets you use the regular timing belt and remove the balance shafts. its a little silver shaft with a gear on the end that made on the shaft.
 
Their shortbloack sure is expensive, but it can handle 700HP....I like what I see, and their stage 3 head...hmmm....looks very nice...
 
LOL you like that, loo at FFWDCONNECTION.COM. frickin 2mm oversized ferrea valves
 
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