does it matter which injector wire we put on the hot wire?im asking because i went ahead and installed it as stingray mentioned and now the car wont start i know everything is right but i was wondering about that wire.also why in the picture does it show 3 of the 4 wires going back to the irp?instead of the way everyoine keeps mentioning on having 1 wire going to it and the other three setting there not doing anything?thanks guys
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I just completed the swap on a a/t car and have ptu over 1000 miles on it. So yes it can be done. You have to retain you exsisting wiring harness unless you are swapping to the turbo at trans and use the wiring harness for that engine tranny combo. But it is alot eisier just to retain your harness and add the four wires.
ok guys I have done the swap and these are my problems, I got the motor and harness and everything out of a 90 Eclipse It's all I could find,
I think my clutch master cylinder is goin bad b/c I can shift fine taking off and then when i come to a stop or try to shift it just grinds and I gotta stop and wait a lil while and pump it a couple times and i can put it in gear again when it's running, I know their is a difference in the 90 mt but what are they?
I got some electrical issues, headlights dashlights or anything wont work unless the car is running andf if i hit a bump they will go off. and my electric windows wont roll down at all. I am thinking it's a ground some where anyone know where i can find a digram of all the stock wiring places?
on the hot side of the battery their were 2 white wires hooked up to the terminal but where does the other end go to?
The waste gate rod runs to the manifold should i be able to move the rod? the wastegate looks like it is pretty rusted up.
Taboo vacuum elimination diagrams have a MBC hooked up is their anyway to do the elimination without a MBC?
their's a white plugin by the ECU on the drivers side, the harness I put in only has 10 wires and the old harness had 14 or 17 and it wont plug in, i cant really see where the connector wires runs to b/c they go into a BIG wiring harness up under the gauges. I got no electric what so ever in the car until it is running.
Before I get any bashing, I researched and tried to find answers, and Im not a noob with turbos and stuff ( I have a 95 Stealth TT....thats highly modified to say the least)
Alright, I read most of this thread and some other ones, but I have a few questions and need to get a few things clarified before I do this.
The car I will be using will be a 1993 Eclipse GS. It was the DOHC NT but it has the automatic transmission.
The motor I have I picked up from a friend. Its a 1G 4g63T and is basically complete. Its missing the exhaust manifold, but he has the turbo for it. I am not sure if its the stock turbo, or what the deal is on it. Its basically the long block. It was from a gsx, but it doesnt have the flywheel on it anymore for some reason. I believe it was a manual transmission, but I can find out
I am wondering what to do about the transmission. Which flywheel will work? Will the stock flywheel I have on the car work with this motor, or do I need a different one? I wan to use the automatic FWD transmission thats in the car right now so my gf can drive it easier as she has problems driving my stealth, and Im sick of changing clutches
Can anyone tell me some info about this?
Thanks!
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DR Stage 3 Heads, 13T Turbos, 650cc, EMU
ok since this thread appears to be pretty much dea I'll try to claify a few thingsd for you, first off teh Automatic transaxle's flywheel is built onto the torque converter. if you were to use a N/T auto tranny you would need a N/T torque converter. I am sure ya know that the Auto tranny's on the 4g63's are pretty much junk i went threw 2 of them on my N/T motor and finally went to 5-speed. also a few notes when changing the harness, change it all dont just add the wires like some people have. it's pretty simple all you need to do is actually take out the heater motors and a few other misc things under the pass side dash. if the car still has Air conditiong you will have to disconnect them lines right behid the battery before you get the AC box out.
as I'm sure you know the N/T downpipe is totally different than the turbo one.
hope this is what you wanted to know.
it took me about an hour to take out and put in a new harness.
ok since this thread appears to be pretty much dea I'll try to claify a few thingsd for you, first off teh Automatic transaxle's flywheel is built onto the torque converter. if you were to use a N/T auto tranny you would need a N/T torque converter. I am sure ya know that the Auto tranny's on the 4g63's are pretty much junk i went threw 2 of them on my N/T motor and finally went to 5-speed. also a few notes when changing the harness, change it all dont just add the wires like some people have. it's pretty simple all you need to do is actually take out the heater motors and a few other misc things under the pass side dash. if the car still has Air conditiong you will have to disconnect them lines right behid the battery before you get the AC box out.
as I'm sure you know the N/T downpipe is totally different than the turbo one.
hope this is what you wanted to know.
it took me about an hour to take out and put in a new harness.
Danny
I dont have the harness or the ecu, all I have is the block. I think it would be a LOT easier to use the existing harness. What do you think is bad about ising the harness?
I am going to stick with the auto for now, as it still works and my gf can drive it. WHEN, not if, it breaks i will change it then. I am used to pulling transmissions lol.
So, the tranny will bolt right up to this block right? Am i reading this correct?
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DR Stage 3 Heads, 13T Turbos, 650cc, EMU
I dont have the harness or the ecu, all I have is the block. I think it would be a LOT easier to use the existing harness. What do you think is bad about ising the harness?
I am going to stick with the auto for now, as it still works and my gf can drive it. WHEN, not if, it breaks i will change it then. I am used to pulling transmissions lol.
So, the tranny will bolt right up to this block right? Am i reading this correct?
it should.. hmm..the starter should work too. just use your starter etc.
Very cool thread,I've read it all and have a pretty good understanding of what all needs to be done.
I have a 92 NT,and saturday I bought a wrecked 94 FWD TSI with a 7 bolt for the swap.My friend I bought the talon from has done7-6 bolt swaps on 1G's and said I will need to re-use my cam angle sensor for the 92.I'm gonna be using the 94 eprom ecu from the talon so I was wondering why I would need the 92 CAS.Maybe I just overthought something and theres a simple explanation,there usually is.I am a turbo noob but good with electronics and common sense so I don't see this being too hard.
The 7 bolt 1g engine is identical other than the mechanicals to the 91-92.5 engines. You shouldn't have any issues with this like you would a 7bolt-6bolt 2g swap. The cam angle sensors will be identical.
____________________________
-Kyle Mavis
#97 Street Modified Fort Wayne SCCA
ok since this thread appears to be pretty much dea I'll try to claify a few thingsd for you, first off teh Automatic transaxle's flywheel is built onto the torque converter. if you were to use a N/T auto tranny you would need a N/T torque converter. I am sure ya know that the Auto tranny's on the 4g63's are pretty much junk i went threw 2 of them on my N/T motor and finally went to 5-speed. also a few notes when changing the harness, change it all dont just add the wires like some people have. it's pretty simple all you need to do is actually take out the heater motors and a few other misc things under the pass side dash. if the car still has Air conditiong you will have to disconnect them lines right behid the battery before you get the AC box out.
as I'm sure you know the N/T downpipe is totally different than the turbo one.
hope this is what you wanted to know.
it took me about an hour to take out and put in a new harness.
Danny
I will disagree 100 percent on the part about the wiring harness and the n/t auto tranny. I have done this swap in a 94 n't car just add the four wires it is much eaiser for you considering you want to retain the n/t auto trans( the connectors for the tranny will be different on the turbo harness for the trans I know I been there have a harness here from a 91 talon tsi I took the wires I need from) . As far as bolting the tranny to the engine. Is the engine a 7 bolt or a 6 bolt engine. If it is a 6 bolt go to the local Mitsu dealer and order a flex plate for a 91 n/t car you will need the one with the 6 bolt center and 3 bolts on the outer edge it will look likt a triangle. The n/t tranny holds up pretty good as long as it is in good shape and you change the fluid and filter. I now have about 5k miles on my swap and have push the car hard and the tranny is holding fine. Make sure you have all the extra electricals for the swap and the ecu. Pretty straight forward swap.
I asked the guy for a little more detailed explanation..he's just thinking there would be a connector that doesn't match but we'll see...it may all just line up.
I will disagree 100 percent on the part about the wiring harness and the n/t auto tranny. I have done this swap in a 94 n't car just add the four wires it is much eaiser for you considering you want to retain the n/t auto trans( the connectors for the tranny will be different on the turbo harness for the trans I know I been there have a harness here from a 91 talon tsi I took the wires I need from) . As far as bolting the tranny to the engine. Is the engine a 7 bolt or a 6 bolt engine. If it is a 6 bolt go to the local Mitsu dealer and order a flex plate for a 91 n/t car you will need the one with the 6 bolt center and 3 bolts on the outer edge it will look likt a triangle. The n/t tranny holds up pretty good as long as it is in good shape and you change the fluid and filter. I now have about 5k miles on my swap and have push the car hard and the tranny is holding fine. Make sure you have all the extra electricals for the swap and the ecu. Pretty straight forward swap.
I have no idea if it is the 6 bolt or 7 bolt. I am new to dsm';s, I am a stealth owner as you can see in my avatar. How do I check?
Also, ive been coming across some weird things on this car. Supposedly there was an engine fire, and they replaced the wiring harness. Well, when I got the car it wasnt running, but I got it to run. It ran half assed. So, I was digging in the hatch and I found a lot of relays that werent installed beneath the dash. I put those in, but I didnt turn it on yet because the waterpump is completely shot and I believe the headgasket is too. The compression is shit on this engine.
Anyways I talked to his brother tonight and he said that when the wiring harness got on fire, they replaced it with one from a GSX. So....I am beginning to think that this is going to be weird lol.
I now am going to do a search for a thread on pulling the motor
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DR Stage 3 Heads, 13T Turbos, 650cc, EMU
Easy way to check if its a 6 or 7 bolt is the oil pan,on the drivers side of the pan there will either be a dent,or a hump.The dented one is a 7 bolt and the bumpy one is a 6 bolt.I know that sounds odd and is a vague description but thats what I remember.You can also safely assume that if its a 91 or 90 and has the original motor in it, its a 6 bolt.Early to mid 92 is when they start putting the 7 bolts in.
I just went and got my stainless downpipe,MAS w/filter,and intake tube as its all I can fit in the spyder but should be able to get the engine monday or next weekend.I can't wait to feel boost.
I have no idea if it is the 6 bolt or 7 bolt. I am new to dsm';s, I am a stealth owner as you can see in my avatar. How do I check?
Also, ive been coming across some weird things on this car. Supposedly there was an engine fire, and they replaced the wiring harness. Well, when I got the car it wasnt running, but I got it to run. It ran half assed. So, I was digging in the hatch and I found a lot of relays that werent installed beneath the dash. I put those in, but I didnt turn it on yet because the waterpump is completely shot and I believe the headgasket is too. The compression is shit on this engine.
Anyways I talked to his brother tonight and he said that when the wiring harness got on fire, they replaced it with one from a GSX. So....I am beginning to think that this is going to be weird lol.
I now am going to do a search for a thread on pulling the motor
You may want to find a airing schematic somewhere and go over the wiring harness and make sure all your wires are intacted for the engine swap.
I don't recall seeing much about that in the rest of this thread but the air filter/sensor I got for the turbo motor has no aircan with the wastegate solenoid.From what I understand thats not needed with a manual boost controller anyway and if it saves me from running a wire,even better.Is that correct?
Also wondering about the fuel pressure solenoid...I hear alot of people don't even run it if it came on the car so is that really necessary?
Another thought,if I don't hook either one of those up will it throw a CEL or anything dumb like that?
Sorry for the turbo noob questions but thats really the only thing that I'm not sure about as far as the swap goes.
I found out the main reason that he said I would have to re-use my Cam Angle Sensor....he sold the one that was on his.I have the motor and ECU now but the clutch is shot so before I drop that turbo motor in,I'm going to replace the clutch.
Skipping the clutch for now because of storage issues but theres one thing I can't find in this thread anymore,either the link dead ends or I can just no longer find it but...What do I do with the damn injector resistor pack? Other than mount it to the firewall I'm just kinda lost on that from what I can read on here.Has anyone found a recent or working link to a photo of what to do?
Cut your main wiring harness open between the 2 mounts on the firewall look in there for a set of wires that go 4 into 1. Cut the splice out and wire the white or red wire from the res. pack the the white or red wire from your harness then wire the black wires from the harness to the black wires from the res. pack. Solder the connections and heat shrink them. then tape up the wiring harness and your good to go.
Its been a couple months since I read this thread and I sort of skipped over all the tranny issues as I was just going to use the turbo tranny that came with the motor.What I realized friday is that the NA CV axles do not fit the turbo tranny.Now I'm wondering if I buy the turbo CV axles,will they line up on the wheel side? I have the donor car and can switch hubs if necessary but I'll go back and read closer.
The axles should fit unless you've got a 93-94 fwd transmission. They used larger shafts at the transmission so upgrading to the bigger driveshafts is actually a nice thing. The hub end will still be the same size as the nt though so it's not an expensive or detailed swap.
____________________________
-Kyle Mavis
#97 Street Modified Fort Wayne SCCA
Ahh,Its a 94 tranny/motor/doner car going into the 92 so that would be why.At least I don't have to swap out hubs/knuckes and all that fun stuff.Thank you again Mavisky.
well thanks to you mavisky I have swapped in a complete turbo engine and tranny, everything fit great, the only things I had to change were the wiring harness and MAFS because I already setup my N/T to be turbo, I pulled everything from a partially running car. I have the stock fuel pump right now and it runs fine at 9 lbs on a 16G and FMIC, if I put on my N/T FPR will this make me run a little richer? doesn't it have a 1:1 ratio whereas the turbo one is less? I think my fuel pump isn't going to last when I turn it up to 11-13 PSI next, James.
here is my thread where I threw on some turbo parts with my already bad rings and didn't check the oil enough and had rod knock, I then have in there where I swapped the Turbo engine/tranny/ecu w/pics
the nt fpr has higher base fuel pressure so you can squeeze a little more flow out of the injectors, but it does also have the 1:1 rising rate setup on it so you can safely boost with it. I only ditched mine because I came across a steal of a deal on a used AFPR.
____________________________
-Kyle Mavis
#97 Street Modified Fort Wayne SCCA
Alright, I've read this thread and completed the swap. However, I am now having trouble with the clutch working correctly. I had a local DSM guru take a look at it; he tells me that the N/T has a different clutch pedal assembly than the turbo, something or another about a lever at the end of the rod attached to the pedal. So in opting to keep the turbo transmission, we have to change out this lever for the turbo one. I don't remember seeing this mentioned anywhere in this thread, though it may have been since it's been half a year since I read it, but I find it notable.
The motor and transmission are out of a 91 TSI with a turbo master and slave cylinder. The car is a 90 N/T Eclipse with all of it's otherwise N/T parts. Our problem is that the clutch is not disengaging. When the pressure plate was torqued down, the fingers on it went basically flat. The Mitsu dealership put it on a press and showed us that it does disengage after like 1/4 of an inch of travel from it's original position. We completely replaced the clutch kit even with the other one being not even 5 miles old. We bled it, adjusted it, did everything in our power to get it working. What I cannot understand is that with the N/T motor in there, we had no problems, the clutch worked fine. Now all of a sudden we are hit with this. We did find that the flywheel was not ground down enough, something I don't think I've ever heard of, so this DSM guru is machining it for us. But other than that itt makes no sense to me, which is why this 'lever' sounds like it's the only thing left.
