Hey man. It doesn't sound like a good deal at all. Kinda like that.
So what reckage yard is allowing you to take all that for $150? I need directions and times they are open.
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No such thing as a good turbo off a smoking knocking motor. Consider this: turbo bearings are one of the smallest bearings but see lots more heat and spin 100 times faster. I can guarantee that turbo is junk... meaning it would cost more to rebuild it than to buy a new one. In fact, if you could rebuild it youself I bet you might just save yourself $50 compared to a new one. Leave that car alone. I wouldn't even bother rebuilding that motor. You could certainly find cheaper motors than what a machine shop would charge you in labor just to fix it. Or what it would cost in parts. Not even the head is worth buying off that car.
He is also refering to the exhaust manifold, O2 sensor housing, knock sensor, ECU, BOV, IC and piping, FPR, fuel pump, injectors, resistor pack, t-body, intake... etc. Good deal, for that much change.
One more electrical question for all you swap gurus!! When wiring in the wastegate solenoid I know the orange wire runs back to pin 105, but how the hell are you supposed to ground it. The only other wire is a red power wire???
our cars are different than most, they use a "switch on ground" method to controlling everything (such as the injectors). one wire needs to go to power, and the other wire will ground out through the ecu.
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-Kyle Mavis
#97 Street Modified Fort Wayne SCCA
listen ass believe me or not, but my car is running, and that's how its wired. look at the goddamn schematics link i posted up on the first page. it clearly shows one hot wire going through the wastegate solenoid valve and one wire clearly grounding out to the ecu. if you think in all your electrical wisdom that you can get it to function in some other manner then by all means prove me wrong, i'll be waiting.
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-Kyle Mavis
#97 Street Modified Fort Wayne SCCA
Man, i believe you. My guess was that the wastegate solenoid did ground out through the ecu. When I said thanks alot i meant it. You are the only guy that has truly answered my questions about the conversion. Sorry about the misunderstanding I wasnt being sarcastic.
OK, this is a little uclear for me too. If the ECU supplies the ground for the BCS (orange wire to pin 105) and the FPS (white wire to pin 57), then why do we ground the red wires of the two solenoids? I believe this is what 92GS-T'd was asking.
Wouldn't it make sense to power these wires like the white wire going into the injector resistor pack?
Also, did anyone else connect the IRP's white wire to the Thick Red wire in the wiring harness on the intake manifold w/good results?
sorry about the confusion as well, apparently there still isn't a way to convey sarcasm/non-sarcasm well across the internet.
and stingray 90, you are right, and that's what i was mentioning above. you don't ground those two wires. one from each solenoid goes to the ecu to be grounded, and the other from each solenoid has to draw power from somewhere (that's ultimately up to you).
where are you guys getting the idea that you should ground all those wires, did i mess up the write up somehow or was it somewhere else you saw it. if you could find it for me i'll make sure to correct it.
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-Kyle Mavis
#97 Street Modified Fort Wayne SCCA
THis is how i have modified my n/t wire harness to make it work with the turbo motor and ecu.
1) Pin 6 Maf wire
2) Pin 9 Knock wire
3) Pin 57 Fuel Pressure solenoid
4) Pin 105 Wastegate Solenoid
5) Injector resistor pack
Instead of hardwiring these things in i used all original solenoids. For the extra Maf wire i simply matched up the colors for the turbo Maf solenoid and the one that was missing (green/white) I ran back to the #6 pinout. For the knock sensor I ran the white wire back to the ecu at pin #9 and the black i grounded to a bolt nearby on the block. For the fuel pressure solenoid I ran the white wire back to the ecu at pin # 57 and was planning on grounding one of the remaining black wires ( not even sure if that is right)?? The wastegate solenoid orange wire was ran back to the ecu at pin #105, the remaining power wire (red wire) i am planning on drawing power through the camshaft position sensor like the schematics say. As far as that damn injector resistor pack goes i used the original connecting solenoid and ran each wire to the injector wires that don't run back to the ecu I assume these are the positive wires, and i tapped the power wire of course. That is a complete list of the electrical work i did to turn my n/t harness into a turbo one. Some of my main concerns lie within grounding the fuel pressure solenoid and knock sensor. Does the fuel pressure solenoid also ground at through the ecu?? If so, then why doesn't the knock sensor also ground through the ecu?? My car should be started soon for the first time in eight months and after thousands of dollars of modifications. This is why I am just trying to make sure all my electrical work is correct. Again Mavisky sorry about all the confusion, it is because of your imaginestation link and this thread that i have been able to convert my car to turbo. So thanks. Hopefully i will have pics soon!!!
i'll have to double check on the last wire for the fps but the knock sensor does just ground out to anything local, i think i used one of the throttle cable bracket bolts on my car.
other than that everything sounds fine. now i just need to get mine running right for the shootout so i can finally break into the 13's, hopefully some of the people reading this thread will join me
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-Kyle Mavis
#97 Street Modified Fort Wayne SCCA
I'll be there Mav. I just need a Injector resistor pack, FMIC kit, VR4 fuel pump and some misc wiring. My full 3" exhaust should be flowing pretty good by then.
My question is about the injector resistor pack though. What do we do about the original wires which are supposed to connect to the injectors from the original wiring harness? The diagram on the 1st page doesn't show. Do we just rip them out and leave the one going back to the ECU?
I just need to find some people to go with. Hotel room is set up, I just need people...
>92GS-T'd
All of your pin connections to the ECU are right. Although, for us '90 owners the MAF wire goes to pin 14 rather than pin 6.
As for- why doesn't the knock sensor ground out through the ECU like the BCS and the FPS? Simple, it's ON- All The Time. The solenoids are not. The ECU decides when to USE them. Same thing goes for the injectors. They fire one at a time(VERY FAST) not all at once. The ECU completes the ground for whichever injector and in turn gives it power. It only "READS" from the knock sensor.
>TimG & everyone else
The IRP pack is not as hard as it seems IMO. (1.) First connect the IRP to it's harness you got from your doner car or whereever. (2.) Then open up the wiring harness that runs across the intake manifold. Look for the THICKER (+) yellow wires (All yellow w/black, red, green, and white stripes) the thinner (-) wires run to the ECU (Do not touch these). (3.) Cut them & solder the half running to the injectors to the 4 black wires of the IRP (YB-BY, YR-BL, YG-BW, YW-BR) I don't know if it's necessary to put them in that order since the ECU decides which injector to fire, but better safe than sorry, (if anyone has did it differently w/good results let us know) (4.) Connect the red wire of the IRP to the opposite half of one of those THICK yellow wires that you cut. NOT the half you connected to the IRP! The 3 remaining cut yellows get heat shrink put on the ends of them (Not used). Seal it, wrap it, bolt it call it a day!
>mavisky- Thanx for taking us this far! U Da Man!!!
Originally posted by Stingray90
TimG & everyone else
The IRP pack is not as hard as it seems IMO. (1.) First connect the IRP to it's harness you got from your doner car or whereever. (2.) Then open up the wiring harness that runs across the intake manifold. Look for the THICKER (+) yellow wires (All yellow w/black, red, green, and white stripes) the thinner (-) wires run to the ECU (Do not touch these). (3.) Cut them & solder the half running to the injectors to the 4 black wires of the IRP (YB-BY, YR-BL, YG-BW, YW-BR) I don't know if it's necessary to put them in that order since the ECU decides which injector to fire, but better safe than sorry, (if anyone has did it differently w/good results let us know) (4.) Connect the red wire of the IRP to the opposite half of one of those THICK yellow wires that you cut. NOT the half you connected to the IRP! The 3 remaining cut yellows get heat shrink put on the ends of them (Not used). Seal it, wrap it, bolt it call it a day!
Stingray, you just made my life easier. Thanks very much. You DA man.
Stingray and Mavisky, thanks for double checking my electrical work. Hopefully i will be dropping in my motor/trans in tommorrow. I will update you guys on my progress. How far are you other guys on the swap.
Well, I'm almost there. If you look at my profile those are all the parts that I have. All I need is the I/C piping I'm custom making, all the maintainence parts (timing belts-Gatorback, waterpump, o2, etc..) and the Turbo Engine itself. I've got all the dough, I just have to finish wiring in the S-AFC, Profec-b, and my gauges. So I should be a TSI by the end of the month-LATEST!! OH HE!% YEAH!!
Hey mavisky, did you tap in your boost gauge to the throttle body or the FPS. I've read the FPS is the better choice (more accurate). I'm asking because the profec-b taps into the FPS too. I dont want to have that many taps off of one source, unless that's fine, but I've read that it's not. Maybe I could tap in another line on the manifold? Anyone know?
i used the fuel pressure regulator line for my boost guage.
if it were up to me i'd suggest getting the turbo engine in and running under the converted wiring harness before i went and hooked up your ebc or tt, mainly so that you know that your base wiring harness is functioning correctly if you should happen to run into any problems along the way.
your profec shouldn't really need a boost guage since it has its own built in.
____________________________
-Kyle Mavis
#97 Street Modified Fort Wayne SCCA
Ok,
I've been keeping up with all the NT---> Turbo threads on many different boards, and I have a few questions, one in particular.
I have a 1993 Eclipse GS that previously had the NT 4g63 in it. I finished up my conversion about a year ago and it's been running great, with the exception of a few problems here and there(boost creep, etc.). I swapped in a JDM 4g63T motor and a 91 FWD Turbo Tranny, as well as tons of other goodies.
I keep reading about the Injector Resistor Pack being needed, but I don't have one on my car, and it seems to work great. I'm running the injectors that came with the motor, which are 510cc yellow top injectors.
I was simply curious as to what you guys thought about this. In a recent discussion with some local DSMers, they stated that the injector resistor pack was only needed for 2g swaps, or something like that.
I'm no expert by any means, so I thought I'd post up and see what you guys thought. Here is what I have done...
Modifications:
91(?) JDM 6 Bolt Engine
Big 16G Turbo
SS Turbo Oil Supply Line
SS Turbo Oil Return Line
Balance Shaft Elimination Kit
1991 FWD Turbo Transmission
ACT 2100
Fidanza Aluminum Flywheel
Symborski Shifter Kit
Greddy Shift Knob
SS Clutch Line
GM Synchromesh
Fluidyne Aluminum Radiator
2 Spal 11’’ Medium Profile Fans
Turbo Trix Silicon Radiator Hoses
Redline Water Wetter
2g MAS
Dejon Tool Intake Pipe
Dejon Tool Adapter plate
K&N Filter
3’’ Mandrel Bent Down Pipe
3’’ Test Pipe
3’’ Mandrel Bent Cat Back
Apexi N1 Muffler
Apexi Silencer
1g Stock Intercooler
510cc Injectors
Walbro 255 High Pressure Fuel Pump
Spoolin Up AFPR
B&M Fuel Pressure Gauge Kit
Apexi S-AFC
Power Slot Rotors
Metal Master Brake Pads
RRE SS Brake Lines
Motul 600c Brake Fluid
Greddy 60mm Peak/Hold Boost Gauge
Greddy 60mm Peak/Hold EGT Gauge
Greddy 60mm Peak/Hold A/F Gauge
Greddy Turbo Timer
Greddy Profec-B Electronic Boost Controller
Greddy Type-S BOV
Magnecor Spark Plug Wires
Greddy Oil Cap
Greddy Catch Can
Summit Racing Battery Relocation Kit
Optima Red Top Battery
Greddy Upper Strut Bar
Alpine Alarm
Larson’s Silicon Hose Kit
NGK Race Plugs
Kuhmo Ecsta Supra 712s
Maintenance:
Timing Belt Kit
OEM Water Pump
OEM Fuel Filter
OEM Knock Sensor
OEM O2 Sensor
New Drive Shafts
OEM Motor Mounts
OEM Passanger Splash Shield Kit
OEM Heater Hose Kit
OEM Engine Overhaul Gasket Kit
New Wheel Studs
New Lug Nuts
New Heat Shields
Redline Synthetic Oil
OEM Oil Filter
New Coolant Overflow Tank
New rear Wheel Bearings
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Coil pack? Ummm... the IRP is used with the turbo wiring harness I believe. I'm not sure where it is mounted on the turbo car, but I believe it is already apart of your engine harness. Anyone know where?
I only have a JDM motor, not the wiring harness. The IRP is a silver box that plugs into the wiring harness on the turbo cars. A Non Turbo does not have this because NT Injectors are high impedence. I don't know what you are talking about.
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It connects to the harness via a plug on the turbo wiring harness. The actual IRP is mounted on the passanger side of the firewall. It's a small rectangular silver box. Really easy to spot!
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Any special way to run the vacuum hoses after the motor swap, i noticed that non turbo motors dont have a purge valve (emissions crap). How do we compromise running the vacuum hoses if we dont have this valve?? Anybody know??
Kinda like that.
