I bought a turbo car from Wisconsin and swapped the engines and got everything I needed from the donor car. Here is another picture. Fuel cut pressure solenoid is the only circuit I can think of to add. Funny you should mention the resistor pack. I haven't added it in yet. I have cut it out. I was going to mount it in the stock location. There is a hole already on the firewall. I think I grounded the knock sensor to a bolt nearby on the block.
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i have been switching over my 93' Talon ES to a full turbo conversion. 6-bolt turbo block with turbo 2G heads and a 91' turbo tranny, stock NT intake man., decided to keep NT harness after three other swaps of harnesses DID NOT work out. It is at an electrical shop getting this work done and completed, because I hate doing electrical work. $1200+, up to over $5k invested into car, but it has been worth the last 10 months of work and knowledge learned from my car. Stock turbo being used with stock lines, and I hope to retain anywhere from 240-260HP, with upgrades over the summer soon to come.
5K for 260HP? Hummm...
I've spent around $2500US and still have another $2000 that I plan on spending on mods and I'm hoping for 330-350HP. Maybe I'm out to lunch, but it's my goal.
Let me set this straight. Every dollar that is dropped into my car, every second I dedicate to perfecting my car, is all an investment. It is my investment, and its return may not be equal in cash value to what has been dropped into it, but it is worth every dime for the effort and pride it returns back to me. I never said I expected equal resale value. Who would sell their DSM? As for HP, for stock turbo, I believe this is a great estimate. You are looking at 300+ w/ an upgraded turbo I should assume, so naturally you can just drop on a 16G and get that. I have a completely different project car going than what you have, so naturally we will have some differences in value dropped and HP produced out of it. Just thought this moment of clarification could set straight some comments I saw posted in response to my post!
Originally posted by 91eclipseGS i have a turbo off a 4g63t and was wondering if i bolt that on to my n/t with only about 5 psi will it blow anything in the engine
ahm, possibly a wrong thread issue but its not one at the top....
would anyone know anything about converting a 1.8l nt into a 4g63t...?
swap the whole front end maybe... ? Is that ecu similar ... the same....? who knows...
also... im a newb at this what is the difference between 6/7 bolt motor and what does this mean when doing the swap.... how would i identify a 6 or 7 bolt motor
thanks!
Originally posted by cadesigns ahm, possibly a wrong thread issue but its not one at the top....
would anyone know anything about converting a 1.8l nt into a 4g63t...?
swap the whole front end maybe... ? Is that ecu similar ... the same....? who knows...
also... im a newb at this what is the difference between 6/7 bolt motor and what does this mean when doing the swap.... how would i identify a 6 or 7 bolt motor
thanks!
with the 1.8 to 2.0t swap,you'll need a donor car: wiring harness,bottom crossmember(the one the points where the car is going),tranny,axles,ecu,the motor and every turbo related component on the car. theres probably more,but thats all that comes to mind at the moment. look around on vfaq,it'll tell you the difference between 6 and 7 bolt.
mavisky hoping you canhelp me out......I am taking the turbo engine out of a 93 and putting into my 90 nt. Because the nt was fwd it cant accpet the full awd system off of the turbo car. I also cant run the nt tranny because the turbo isa 7 bolt and the nt is a 6. My question is, can i run the awd tranny exclusively fwd by leaving off the rest of the system and transfer case and not experience any power loss? Or is some of the power always transfered to the rear wheels(non-existing in this case)?
I'm not 100% sure but scrap the AWD tranny and use the FWD one. It really does not matter if it's a 6 or 7 bolt, it should work all the same. Just make sure you use your flywheel off of your n/t tranny and pick up a heavier clutch from ACT or Centreforce. Keep all of your clutch related components that you can still attached to the car when you do the sawp and utilize them again when you use the n/t tranny.
Hope that helps. But wait for more responses to back me up.
Originally posted by 16GTSI mavisky hoping you canhelp me out......I am taking the turbo engine out of a 93 and putting into my 90 nt. Because the nt was fwd it cant accpet the full awd system off of the turbo car. I also cant run the nt tranny because the turbo isa 7 bolt and the nt is a 6. My question is, can i run the awd tranny exclusively fwd by leaving off the rest of the system and transfer case and not experience any power loss? Or is some of the power always transfered to the rear wheels(non-existing in this case)?
you can use the awd transmission. the thing is you'll have to pull the transfercase output shaft out, weld up the hole for it, weld up the center diff on the awd tranny and use the awd axles. ( not so bad since you'd have equal length half-shafts then).
or you could simply hunt down the nt 7 bolt flywheel and use it since the only real difference between flywheels of the same model is the amount of mounting bolt holes.
if you get the nt flywheel expect to shell out around 200 for the new flywheel and about 300 for the nt clutch. or you could shell out around 800 and keep the awd flywheel and clutch, and do the modifications to the awd tranny to make it work in a fwd manner.
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-Kyle Mavis
#97 Street Modified Fort Wayne SCCA
Originally posted by TimG Just make sure you use your flywheel off of your n/t tranny and pick up a heavier clutch from ACT or Centreforce.
F*ck I'm stupid. You can't use the n/t flywheel cause it's a 6 bolt one. Buy a 7 bolt n/t flywheel and heavier clutch, and you'll be able to run your n/t tranny.
I am currently trying to convert a non turbo Sohc Neon over to a eclipse turbo. The only problem that I am having is where to start. I am going to have the exhaust manifold made. I have a turbo off an eclipse motor 2.0 Dohc. Where do I hook up the oil lines? Where does the boost controller set? Where does the BOV need to be? Am I going to need a bigger fuel pump? etc.
Originally posted by NeonJoe96 I am currently trying to convert a non turbo Sohc Neon over to a eclipse turbo. The only problem that I am having is where to start. I am going to have the exhaust manifold made. I have a turbo off an eclipse motor 2.0 Dohc. Where do I hook up the oil lines? Where does the boost controller set? Where does the BOV need to be? Am I going to need a bigger fuel pump? etc.
wrong thread buddy, this is for the 4g63 mitsubishi engine, not the chrylser 420a.
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-Kyle Mavis
#97 Street Modified Fort Wayne SCCA
Hey how are you guys? I'm currently converting my NT GS to turbo, Wil and I got the turbo in with the MBC and a SAFC, but now I need the injectors in, my question is can I just swap the injectors or does the the turbo injectors work on a diffrent OHM. What is my next move? Thanks
if you want to use high impedance aftermarket injectors you can just swap them right in, but if you want to use any of the stock turbo injectors or aftermarket injectors commonly sold for the turbo cars you'll need to wire in the resistor pack i talked about in the main post.
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-Kyle Mavis
#97 Street Modified Fort Wayne SCCA
There was talk about breaking the ring lands. But there are even 2.4L NT motors out there running fine with up to 20psi. Any piston is prone to cracking ring lands, but it seems the trick is to tune moderately with stock NT motors.
After sticking the turbo setup in Rev's car we noticed part throttle knock. Timing was retarded till it went away. The car is fast even at 10psi (according to Rev's boost gauge -- 14b, stock SMIC).
We used a logger to check for fuel problems and it seems even up to 85 mph the stock injectors and fuel pump were keeping up fine. I don't recommend running the 1/4 mile like this though. Definitely getting bigger injectors is the next best move now that he has a SAFC.
The biggest problem with just sticking a turbo on an NT is running too much knock. Turbo motors come with knock sensors to help fight this. But without a knock sensor and running higher compression pistons to boot it is easy to see how it could be easy to self destruct the NT motor.
Running good gas and as much octane as you possible definitely helps. But as soon as you use bad gas the NT motor has no way to defend against this. Keeping a close ear for knock is very important.
For you guys that completed the swap, how many of you are running the fuel pressure solenoid?? Is it really necessary?? Any pics of where it should be mounted??
Mavisky got any pics of where you mounted that damn fuel pressure solenoid?? Also did you have to disconnect any of the other solenoids that were used to run the car as a non turbo when adding the fuel pressure solenoid??
So you just unplugged the original soleoid and plugged in the solenoid from the turbo fuel pressure solenoid. Right?? Thanks man those pics really pointed me in the right direction.
there is originally only one solenoid above there but there are two openings. so i wired in the fps and then ran the appropiate vacuum hoses to it. i just used that as a place to mount it.
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-Kyle Mavis
#97 Street Modified Fort Wayne SCCA
I recently found a turbo in a wrecking yard. The engine is smoking and knocking but the the turbo is believed to be good. I was told I could pick whatever I wanted off the car except the head. Can I take the turbo and all related accessories and mount them on my car? I can have everything for $150. Canadian. (So thats like what? $10.00 U.S?) Any help would be great. Cause I have to move quick!
Is that ecu similar ... the same....? who knows...
