Some O'Reilly's clutch kit. It's my almost 16 year old little brother's car, so 1) he's too poor to put in a performance clutch, and 2) he really shouldn't need it on a stock car. The flywheel is the stock turbo flywheel. I'm helping him do the mechanics on it since he's knew to the stuff, but I don't want to put the transmission up again (done it three times so far) and try it if it's not going to work and I have to take it back down again.
Okay so I found something I find pretty interesting. According to this DSM guy I've been getting my info from, both clutch pedal assemblies should have coil/springs attached to them. Well here's some pics of my turbo car's clutch pedal assembly.
Compared to the turbo conversion car's clutch pedal assembly
Now does this look right to you guys? According to the guy I've been talking to, the non-turbo should have had a coil/spring thing in there, but it doesn't. I am not completely sure if that is causing the problem, but the non-turbo definately does not have a spring/coil thing.
It may not be different on yours. Remember, I'm using a 91 turbo motor and swapping it into a 90 non-turbo body. I've never heard of it being different, but it may just be for the 90 model year n/t.
Also, I found that the step on the flywheel was not correct, so we had it machined to the correct step. I believe my little bro and my dad are going to try it out and see if it works without swapping the pedal assemblies because I hear it's no easy task getting them out so they will save that for last.
Alright, finally got this thing figured out. After having the flywheel machined, it still didn't work.
Working with it a little more, my dad and bro found out that the soft hose for the hydraulic line from the master to the slave was worn out and expanding when the pedal was depressed. This didn't allow for full travel of the slave cylinder to push the fork/TOB into the pressure plate.
Interesting little system, but it works well now. I guess there is no issue with the clutch pedal assembly...
I have most of my swap done now,just need to plumb and mount the AFPR and wire the resistor pack and put the larger splined axles in to accomodate the 94 trans.
I have a Bosch injector resistor pack from a Volvo that a friend gave me and measured it at 5.7 ohm resistance.With what I read in this thread,resistor value the stock IRP is anywhere from 5.5 to 6.5 ohm resistance and it seems this one I have will work fine.
Hello, I have a question on a 1990 Turbo AWD swap to a 92 FWD N/T. I know for sure the gas tank has to be relocated & fuel lines as well. I have a 1990 GSX that I would like to transfer the AWD setup from to a 92 FWD Gs. Can this be done without too much headache. The 92 GS is in better shape body wise not adding its 2 yrs younger. I have already done the ECU wiring and currently using the 91-94 ECU with a dsmchip which was once in the 1990 GSX. If I have to FWD it I would like to use the AWD tranny and mod it using a limited Slip insert. What is envolved in doing the alterative if I have to go the FWD route if the AWD route is not possible?
awd drivetrain in a 1g fwd is a whole hell of a lot of fabrication. The time, materials, and energy it would cost you could get you 2 clean looking awd shells instead.
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-Kyle Mavis
#97 Street Modified Fort Wayne SCCA
It's alive!!! I put a couple gallons of gas in the tank the other day and cranked it,it fired right up and sounds good!!!
I set the fuel pressure at 37 PSI and it sounded even better,then I played with the CAS a bit to get the timing close and it sounds good!!!
I don't even have a Check Engine Light yet and that amazes me,theres EGR valve wires hanging with no EGR and I never even wired in the fuel pressure solenoid or boost control solenoid.
I just need to put axles in it,swap some fluids and hook up the boost gauge and its good to take a trip around the neighborhood and hang out in the driveway until I get a clutch kit for it,haha.
Very cool and thanks again for all your help and the great thread Mavisky!
Do yourself a favor and don't start the car without any tranny fluid again. Your input shaft is still spinning in there and you could be damaging the bearings and/or shaft.
Do yourself a favor and don't start the car without any tranny fluid again. Your input shaft is still spinning in there and you could be damaging the bearings and/or shaft.
Agreed, it's just not a safe or smart thing to do. Glad to hear you got it running, but let's keep it running.
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-Kyle Mavis
#97 Street Modified Fort Wayne SCCA
glad to hear you got it runing.. I remember when I first converted mine to turbo, I would get on it just to break the tires loose because when it was non turbo it wouldn't ! haha
Interesting problem I ran into ordering these 94 axles with the bigger spline...nobody seems to have a different part # for 1G's,they all will ship the smaller splined axles even if you ask for a 94 set.
Carquest showed a difference in parts but its the difference between an Eagle and a Mitsubishi for 94 ...I told the guy there should be no diffrence but lets try anyway.I got only one axle first and although it fit perfectly,the threads for the axle nut were destroyed so another ones on order.
To Recap,If you put a 93-94 motor in and you need these axles,call Carquest and order them for a 94 Mitsubishi 2.0 turbo FWD
Drivers side - Carquest part # CV2199
Passenger side- (will post when it arrives or I find the reciept)
I've got a few questions... I have a 91 non turbo that I got with a blown engine, the only engine I could get my hands on quick was a turbo block out of a 2g. The car runs... but it sounds like a freaking rotary or something... it doesn't sound like any 4g63 I've ever heard, its loud and very hoover-ish. Compression was 120 all the way across. Its got a bit of an idle surge when you give it much gas, and it won't take off at a low rpm... also usually idles at a steady 1k, but sometimes it'll randomly loose everything and just die.
Also is it normal that this thing has absolutely no power? As in much slower than a normal non-turbo...
The car is still going strong! I recently installed an ACT 2100 clutch kit that stressed out the seal on my clutch master cylinder, which I have the rebuild kit for.
I have a CEL recently that comes and goes,I believe it to be ISC related.
I plan to get a SAFC for it,wideband,oil pressure gauge and FMIC this summer.
Once again,thank you for the great thread Mavisky!!
Glad to hear it's still holding up. I just rebuilt the motor in mine, waiting on some 1000cc injectors to make it here from Canuckistan and then I'm going to see what I can get out of this 18g.
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-Kyle Mavis
#97 Street Modified Fort Wayne SCCA
Nice,I bet that 18g will be fun.You running on 93 pump? I'm at the limit of my stock 450's and need to make the jump to 650's.I'm going to do the timing belt job with a Gates belt and eliminate the balance shaft in the next month and basically continue with maintainence until it's strip ready.
i just got a quick question for this thread, i am gonna be using a n/t engine harness in my 91 awd, i have 550cc injectors do i have to use the resistor box or can i get away with not using it, also i am gonna be using the 2g mass, i know i have to wire other things in but thats simple i just want to know what the box does and if its needed for bigger injectors.
