I'm working on a stroker at the moment. Forged internals, etc... I'm not doing anything with the head due to money. My question is... Can a 6 or 7 bolt TURBO FWD FLYWHEEL/CLUTCH work with a 1G(1992) Manual FWD 2.0L Tranny(F5M22)? I'm wondering if the diameters and number of teeth are the same? I think it will fit in the bell housing. Thanks
to swap flywheels ect you need to swap it all. tranny, clutch, and flywheel. youll get a little bit taller gears but add soem power and nitrous youll be a little bit faster then the n/a tranny.
the stock n/t tranny blows and the gst tranny is stronger and imo easier to get a hold of in good shape. im swappign to a gst tranny, fidaza gst flywheel, and act2600 from a gst. it all bolts to the block and crank with no problems.
to swap flywheels ect you need to swap it all. tranny, clutch, and flywheel. youll get a little bit taller gears but add soem power and nitrous youll be a little bit faster then the n/a tranny.
the stock n/t tranny blows and the gst tranny is stronger and imo easier to get a hold of in good shape. im swappign to a gst tranny, fidaza gst flywheel, and act2600 from a gst. it all bolts to the block and crank with no problems.
Are you sure that it is a direct bolt-on? I am surprised that we haven't heard of anyone doing this in the past. Will the turbo gears help in the high end then opposed to the low due to the fact that they are larger? Do you know what each can handle as far as HP? And what year would be the strongest of the 1g gst models? I know that this is a shit load of questions, but I am intrigued! This actually sounds like a really good idea for n/t owners who want to test the limits of what our cars can do.
dude your an ass, n/a isnt a turbo motor dude. you need basically no weight internally and externally to make your power benificial. the less weight in the motor the better. yuoull make more power easily with less strain on the internals. the crank will turn ove rbetter
grodes weigh less that crowers by 100 grams i beleive. im gonna run a gst fidanza for less weight. ill gain 15hp from it about.
lighter pulleys help, light pistons help, lightening the crnak helps on all motors.
please stop comenting if you have niothign supportive to say in this thread. this thread is to help peopel into all motor, not to have peopel liek you come in and try to critisiz everythign that is said. if you have nothgin supportive to say then go away. if you do nto stop i will let a mod knwo and have you removed from the thread.
grodes weigh less that crowers by 100 grams i beleive. im gonna run a gst fidanza for less weight. ill gain 15hp from it about.
You're dreaming.
Quote:
Originally Posted by na90dsm
please stop comenting if you have niothign supportive to say in this thread.
Would being supportive mean to encourage someone to make a mistake? Because that's what you're doing. I think I'm being supportive by trying to sway his decision to a better one.
Quote:
Originally Posted by na90dsm
if you do nto stop i will let a mod knwo and have you removed from the thread.
I think you would be more likely to be removed as you have done nothing but post incorrect information and make ad hominem attacks.
which imformation am i leavign that is false. go and look at the grode rod information. youll see it. http://www.ffwdconnection.com/dsm2.htm and im sorry there 155 grams less then crowers.
and everythign else in this thread has been discussed many times. ive been on here for 2 years and i have never had a problem with my n/a 4g63 imformation.
now let it go and lets continue wth this disscusion
tuning wise what can be doen to the ecu to make it perform better. i havent heard much abotu the e-manage and ive been hearing some bad stuff about the ems so ive descided against that. can a e-prom be used in this situation also can a dsmlink be utilized to gain some tuning advantages.
timign will need to be looked at, throttle position, injector duty cycle, air fuel rations may need to be looked into, i mean a s-afc can be used no doubt but will that and a stock ecu make for enough tuning for a n/t. i think itll be more in depth then this to tune a highly modded n/a motor but i could be mistaken. anyoen got anythought?
edit::: also heres a few flow charts i foudn on the fuel setup i was talkin about. flow specs on stock 1g 4g63 fuel pump vs the walbro 190 and 255.
shows a bit more indepth on the fuel specs. im gonan run the crower cams ive been talkin about with 390's first, then im gonan try to step up top 450 blue tops
You didn't give any reason or alternatives or contribute with your comment.
What I said was a very clear statement. I'm sorry not everyone is as gifted as me, to be able to think for themselves. I didn't really feel like walking him through what hundred other things he could buy that would be much more beneficial to him. I just left it at what I said, an attempt to allow him to be creative and to inspire some research. It's a pity that these things are frowned upon.
What I said was a very clear statement. I'm sorry not everyone is as gifted as me, to be able to think for themselves. I didn't really feel like walking him through what hundred other things he could buy that would be much more beneficial to him. I just left it at what I said, an attempt to allow him to be creative and to inspire some research. It's a pity that these things are frowned upon.
It's not a matter of being able to think for yourself it's a matter of helping people. There's nothing wrong suggesting a couple things, especially when your statement contradicts what he said.
If your not going to help then it's simple don't post.
It's not a matter of being able to think for yourself it's a matter of helping people. There's nothing wrong suggesting a couple things, especially when your statement contradicts what he said.
If your not going to help then it's simple don't post.
I was helping him by suggesting that he doesn't buy them. Of course advice doesn't mean anything to someone that won't listen or is too headstrong.
i showed you proof and dirrect link to information showing i was correct. if a turbo motor woudl run those to get rid of weight then why wouldnt a n/a motor. and if the advice is correct im the first person that will listen
its not a matter of strength here. the stock rods yes will handle any power a n/a 4g63 can throw at it. they are proven to handle 400whp and keep rolin strong. this is way more power then the n/a motor can wish of putting out without some insane mods, but they are heavy.
id rather run a lighter rod thats a hell of a lot less weight internally in my motor to help the revs get up top quicker where n/a motors make there power then to keep them and have more weight then i could get rid of to help the performance.
on a budget motor yes they will work perfectly and would compliment after market pitsons as long as press pin is made in the piston. but on a motor that will have to rev up quickly and is being made to do just that just because you suggest it doesnt mean that i shoud get it
no hard feelings man and i got kinda out of line with that ass comment, but i have proven why i would buy those rods and now explained my reasons for that decision. now can we please let this conversation progress
I'm not questioning whether these expensive rods are lighter. They are. What is in question is how beneficial they are. I'd be willing to bet that you would never notice a difference. They really are NOT that much lighter. And still, the effects of lowering the weight of the assembly are seriously overrated. Don't believe all the hype. If you want to blow a huge deal of money on something that will barely be helpful, then go for it. But then I guess you should also look into purchasing titanium axles and rotors because the regular axles and rotors weigh too much and we all know how beneficial it is to get rid of rotating mass.
im talkingh in conunction with other internal mods as well, not by themselves. if you do just the rods and pistons it wont make a difference reallyu.
combine grodes, with a butchered crank, aftermarket aluminum pistons, a fidanza flywheel,udp youll rev over really goddamn fast. all mtor makes more power up top so itll be more benificial to get the motor into its power range faster to make it get that power to the ground quicker
i totally understand what your sayin though. its not a huge weight difference at all, but in conjunction with other mods just like anythign else itll packl a punch
You keep saying the engine will rev faster because it weighs less. Yes, revving in neutral it will make a big difference as it only has to spin itself. It will also decelerate a lot faster. But under the load of the transmission, axles, and wheels, not to mention having to push a whole car, the weight of the engine matters much less than you seem to think.
i understand that much but itll make a slight difference with a load. with the flywheel itll make enough of a difference with a load on the motor to help make a little more power an make it get up there faster. it would be better then leaving it stock.
yea know matter what its still pushin a 3200lb car but every little bit helps.
you dotn knwo the stock gvw of a n/t do ya. i imagine itll be a little bit lighter then a turbo model anyway
stock eclipse gs 2.0L n/t weighs 2712. thats not to damn bad at all awd weighs liek 3100 it says.
ok now i went on there and wa sstill looking into a fuel setup to run 450cc injectors, i looked at that link and it says that we have a higher fuel pressure then the turbo models. the turbo uses the low impedence injectors while the n/a uses the high impedence. you have to wire in the resistor acl for the injectors when using turbo injectors in a n/t but my question is this. will we have to lower our fuel pressure if we do this. our fuel rail pressure is a little higher
stock fuel pressure at the rail on a turbo is 27 / 36-38 psi . 27 at the rail and 36-38 at wot.
heres the n/a specs 37 / 47-53 psi. we have the same at curb idle but way higher at wot. can this be used to avoind having to upgrade the fuel pump. or will we have to lower our pressure to meat the 380 and 450cc specs
Ok here it is...i'm 17 and i just bought m first car from the original owner. I got a 91 eclipse GS 1.8L 5 spd. It was barely driven and has 64k miles on it. Whenever i've asked for performance mods suggestions on various forums...everyone tells me that the 1.8 is pointless and to get a gsx or something else, but i dont think i want to...now im not looking for a 9 second car but i def wouldnt mind a gain in HP...i'd like to prove people wrong about the 1.8 but i dont know what to do...there is a lot of info on this thread but i only know what CAN be done to cars...not HOW to do it as im only 17 and jus got my car not even a month ago....if some of u guys could help me out it'd be greatly appreciated... thanks 4 ## time...o and also....the clutch(its the original) is on its way out...i was thinking of going with an ACT....any suggestions???
act is a great clutch, i will be using one im my car.
as for mods for the 1.8L, i found a intake for that motor, i havent seen headers for it. other then that there really isnt many mods otu there for the motor. youd have to fab a lot yourself.
i mean you can get pistons made,rods made,use the stock crank. the head can be worked and springs and stuff can ###### be found. ive seen spark plug wires and stuff like that for em, i havent seen pulleys,tb,intake manifolds,cams and stuff to the effect.
crower can custom make any cam as long as you have specs,race eng can make pistons,je can make pistons,eagle and carillo can make rods, basically you will be a pioneer on a path nobody has gone down.
will these all work for my car (91 eclipse gs 1.8L 5 spd) ?? Are these kits entire clutch replacements? like i said my clutch is on its way out and i would like to go with ACT because i wanna be able to drive pretty hard on it...any suggestions??
as for mods...ive seen unorthodox underdrive pulleys, megan racing cat-back exhaust, a bunch of suspension mods, etc i dunno i know the 1.8 isnt the greatest but its reliable and im not lookin to make my car a monster but id like to be able to take a civic...lol
Last edited by bruinlax22; 10-30-2004 at 03:10 PM.
Reason: add
1.8 is still the liek abortion of mitsu, well not abortion but nobody really felt the need to do major stuff to it. if it can rev high it may be able to be a badass motor with some serious compression and methanol, but as a street onster it would be also good imo to keep weight down on the car.
From what Ive heard, you cannot use turbo injectors on a n/t. They work on low resistence as opposed to n/t which use high resistence (or vice versa). Youd have to get a transtor pack or something (its mounted on the firewall on turbos), and a turbo ecu. Am I wrong in this? I was thikin bout gettin turbo injectors till I read up on it. And if u get the turbo ecu, aint it gonna think that its not getting enuf air into the motor, and screwin up everything? Any help it appreciated.
but I am intrigued! 
This actually sounds like a really good idea for n/t owners who want to test the limits of what our cars can do. 
