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Resolved Differences between turbo and non turbo 4g63 6 bolt blocks

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genxxxracer

20+ Year Contributor
123
0
Dec 22, 2002
Scottsdale_AZ
Like the subject says what are the differences between the turbo and non turbo engine. If its a 4g63 6 bolt from a first gen non turbo how does it differ from the turbo one.

Heres my plan. I need to remove the 7bolt in my second gen due to blown rings and pistons. I have found a first gen 6 bolt. I have a first gen head already from a turbo so I just need the block. If I replace the pistons and rods will I be alright or are there incompatibility issues Im going to have to deal with.
 
lots are different. just pick up a 4g63 long block for 300 bucks and not worry about it.

btw, if anyone tells you that the n/a and t rods are the same, pee on them.
 
i think its just the pistons and injectors and computer besides the actual turbo related parts

ive only been here a week or so so dont hold me too it their may be more
 
Check out the N/T forum, there is more information on this topic there. Also, try a search, this topic has been discussed before, and I know there are many differences, just I can't remember them off the top of my head.
 
Yes use the search, also the NT block does not have knock sensor it does have a hole for one so one can be installed.
 
I did search. Guess i did'nt word it correctly. I either find waaaay unrelated stuff or get too specific and don't get anything.

I did find that the N/T blocks did'nt have the oil squirters. Did'nt find out about the lack of knock sensor.
I'm looking to buy an already prepped block and found several N/T blocks. Was'nt sure if i could swap the different componants from my Turbo block or if there were other differences.
Thanks for the help!
 
just the oil squirters are different.it has a hole for the knock sensor,just a different location.
 
Don't forget some of the other stuff is different as well.

nt 4g63
no locating pin on crankshaft
Pistons are different design
Motor mount arms (front and rear attached to block) are different
water pump pipe doesn't have outlet for oil-water cooler
lower thermostat housing doesn't have the fitting for the oil-water cooler
no lines for the oil water cooler
head plugged where oil feed comes from
no drain hole on oil pan
different tb
different cams
intake manifold lacking one vacuum source on the manifold

Alot of this stuff is easily replaced, but it depends.

Of course the stuff mentioned above about the oil squirters not being there and the hole being there for the knock sensor are true.
 
Will i need to tap the hole for the knock sensor or is it already tapped? I assume it would be ok to use in a different location?
Also, on the oil squirters, can i just swap the over or will i have to drill and tap some holes???

Thanks again for the reply!
 
Are you just getting a bare block or a short block? Seems like everyone is giving you info about a short block.

As a bare block, no oil squirters or even holes for them. You would have to have the mounting locations machined, drilled, and tapped for them. Im not going to say you do or dont need them because there is too much contraversy on that subject and it will turn into more of an opinion war than anything. Do a search on oil squirters and you will see what Im talking about.

As for the knock sensor, the hole should already be tapped. No real need to be concerned about it. I have heard of a few that werent tapped but I have yet to see one.
 
Yeah, i'm talking about just the bare block. I pulled my motor(turbo) and it may be just about as cheap as well as much less down time picking up an already machined and prepped block. I would use my crank and all accessories and put in new eagle rods and weisco or JE pistons.
 
Birdoprey said:
Yeah, i'm talking about just the bare block. I pulled my motor(turbo) and it may be just about as cheap as well as much less down time picking up an already machined and prepped block. I would use my crank and all accessories and put in new eagle rods and weisco or JE pistons.

Im sure someone will disagree with me but if you are going with a foged piston, I wouldnt worry about the oil squirters. Like I said, search it and you will see all the other threads obout them.
 
Yeah, i did the search. I'm gonna run forged internals. Not worried about the squirters...

Thanks for the search tip!
 
I have a 4g63 6 bolt block. Im not sure its its a turbo block or NA. i was wondering if there is any other way to figure out if its a turbo block besides the oil squirters.
If its an NA block is it as strong as a Turbo block or what are the differences?
 
The blocks are the same other than the squirter's. One way to tell is to check if it has a knock sensor or not. N/T blocks won't have one and turbos will. The other way is by the oil pan. Turbo blocks will have a place for an oil return and N/T will not. The only other difference between the N/T and Turbos blocks are the pistons, the cam, oil filter housing, thermostat housing, and maybe the valves. They both use the same rods, head, and crank.
 
I would use the Non-turbo block. Reason being, It has not been boosted yet. It won't have a wear a turbo block. Jacksonracing Uses non-turbo blocks for that very reason. You can the oil squirter machined or you can leave them out. Really it is up you on that. But, I would really use the non-turbo.
 
thanks... but it is a bare block, and it doesn't show that it has oil squirters... the only thing i can see is that on the front inside of the block there are four sets of two holes- one threaded and the other one is less than a quarter inch big. it runs parallel with the front balance shaft... my guess is that that is where the squirters go. is that correct? by the way, i am running Ross racing pistons, and i decided to not use squirters since they are aluminum. since i'm running aluminum pistons and i remove the oil squirters/balance shaft, will i have extremely high oil pressure?
 
Locate the vin number on the block. (Flywheel side, upper left corner on turbo block, not sure of location on other blocks). You may need to clean up the area with a degreaser to see the very small letters and numbers. The 8th digit will tell you the engine type.

F - 2.0 turbo 1G/2G
G - 2.4 NT 2G
R - 2.0 NT
T - 1.8 NT
U - 2.0 turbo 1G
Y - 2.0 NT 2G

Mike
 
All pistons are aluminum just for your info. The only difference is forged or cast.
 
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