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Clutch drag won't go away.

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EclipseOwner95

20+ Year Contributor
704
10
Oct 16, 2002
Jacksonville, Florida
Alright, I'm pretty much spent on everything I know to try, but maybe I also misunderstand clutch drag a bit as well.

Is any amount of clutch drag acceptable? Should the car NEVER move when revved up that high with the clutch on the floor?

I rev the car to right about 7,000 and the car ever so creeps for a moment.

I have a brand new Shep pedal assembly, literally brand new OEM Slave, Master, Fulcrum Ball, Fork, and TOB. A hard clutch line from master to slave, and the restrictor removed from the slave. I'm running an SB 2700 PP & TZ/B Disc and a brand new XACT Flywheel.

I've adjusted the clutch pedal more times than I can count, bled the clutch and slave numerous times and it never seems to go away. The car shifts fine at 8000, but I'm just concerned with burning up the synchros.

My built trans will be going in the car soon and I want to ensure that everything is right before I put it in.

Any input would be greatly appreciated as I don't really know what else to do.
 
I had the same problem. if you watch the jacks transmission youtube video on dsm clutch pedal adjustment it will be easy.

Just have a friend be inside the car and turn the clutch rod clockwise one turn at a time. at the same time you should be under the car pushing slave cylinder lever with your hand. once your friend turns the rod and you can not push the lever in with your hand. Have your friend turn the rod counter clockwise a half turn so that you can push the slave cylinder with your hand. when you can then have him tighten the 14 mm nut in place. then your clutch will be adjusted properly.

When this is done your car will not creep up when you rev the car up to 7000 rpms and you will not get clutch drag any more.


Call me with any other questions my name is clayton 469-744-4346
 
I had the same problem. if you watch the jacks transmission youtube video on dsm clutch pedal adjustment it will be easy.

Just have a friend be inside the car and turn the clutch rod clockwise one turn at a time. at the same time you should be under the car pushing slave cylinder lever with your hand. once your friend turns the rod and you can not push the lever in with your hand. Have your friend turn the rod counter clockwise a half turn so that you can push the slave cylinder with your hand. when you can then have him tighten the 14 mm nut in place. then your clutch will be adjusted properly.

When this is done your car will not creep up when you rev the car up to 7000 rpms and you will not get clutch drag any more.


Call me with any other questions my name is clayton 469-744-4346

Thanks, I may give you a call. I have watched Jacks adjustment video. No matter how far clockwise I turn the rod I can always push the slave rod in by hand, even when the rod is so far out that it's about to come loose from the end on the pedal. Also, at the moment the threads of the rod are flush with pedal end.

I have a brand new OEM master, so I'm sure its good. And I can't possibly see my Shep pedal assembly being bad either, but I suppose anything is possible. I just can't seem to shake this problem and I'm quite concerned.
 
Last edited:
Did you by Chance check your Flywheel step even though it's a new Flywheel?

No I did not, I assumed that ACT made quality enough of a product to have the step correct. I'm going to pull the trans this weekend and look over everything and have the step checked as well.
 
the flywheel may need to be stepped, also an improperly installed clutch may cause engagement and disengagement issues. last but not least the main shaft may be bent. this happened to some 03' evo's from factory.
 
Well, we can rule out improper clutch installation. I assure you it was done properly. You can also probably rule out a bent input shaft as well, unless I’m the unlucky bastard who has 2 transmissions with bent input shafts. (Problem remained on 2 different trans)

Flywheel step is certainly a possibility, I’m going to try a new slave, a new clutch line, remove the shim from the pivot ball (My fork is closer to the engine than I think it should be) and have the flywheel step checked out. Other than that I’m buying a PTT if I still have problems haha
 
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