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6 bolt swap on a 95 gsx problems

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915dsm

15+ Year Contributor
202
0
Nov 9, 2010
El Paso, Texas
Hi,

i need help figuring out why my cat idleas at less than 500 rpms on the cluster but in dsm link its indicates double that. my wideband says im running lean as well at idle. the car has all new internals. the swap consists of complete 1g long block swap.

1g head with Delta 272/272 cams
evo 9 springs and retainers
1g head crand and rods
2g pistons and compression
1g cas with harness for cam and crans sensors signal
stock injectors
small 16g
fp exhaust mani
cyclone intake mani
CAS timed at 5 degrees (link says its at 13)


Could it be an ecu problem? do i need to check for any leaks? im correcting some exhaust leaks from the o2 housing to the downpipe.


anyones help would be very apreciated.:cry:
 
Check all connections and make sure they are clean to the engine and everything you touched for the swap. Also make sure you have all the proper grounds installed. Very important!!!! A missing ground is the same as just cutting a power wire. You need two parts to fully complete a circut, Power and ground.
 
Sounds like a similer problem I had in my first gen. Ended up going threw everything and found a loose ground like said above. Good luck!
 
I had a similar problem where link showed double what my rpm actually was. It was a bad power transistor. Also check your ground from firewall to intake.
 
1g cas with harness for cam and crans sensors signal
6 bolt swap into a 95/96 is a little trickier due to the stock inverted cam signal, have you read through this yet?
RRE Instructions

cyclone intake mani

Why are you running this? Are you able to support the actuator system?

CAS timed at 5 degrees (link says its at 13)

You need to get the engine up to operating temperature than snoop around the passenger firewall area looking for a tan connector. It won't be plugged into anything, and will also reside near it's buddies, blue and black connector. Ground the tan connector to the chassis or negative battery terminal. This commands the ECU to output a fixed 5* timing signal. Now take your timing light and adjust the CAS until it's at 5* BTDC. I believe DSMlink can do this task without having to touch the firewall connetions too.
 
I had a similar problem where link showed double what my rpm actually was. It was a bad power transistor. Also check your ground from firewall to intake.

Is there a way to check the transistor if its funtioning? Wouldnt i get a cell code if any sensor was bad? I will get a transistor to swap and test it.

6 bolt swap into a 95/96 is a little trickier due to the stock inverted cam signal, have you read through this yet?
RRE Instructions

We have done the cable for the cas to obtain both signals accordingly. We also switched the coil blue cables to avoid swapping the ignition cables.

Why are you running this? Are you able to support the actuator system?

The cyclon will operate with the fuel pressure regulator with link. But not until its based tuned.



You need to get the engine up to operating temperature than snoop around the passenger firewall area looking for a tan connector. It won't be plugged into anything, and will also reside near it's buddies, blue and black connector. Ground the tan connector to the chassis or negative battery terminal. This commands the ECU to output a fixed 5* timing signal. Now take your timing light and adjust the CAS until it's at 5* BTDC. I believe DSMlink can do this task without having to touch the firewall connetions too.

We have done this by grounding this plug. The timing is at 5 degrees btdc and still have issues with cluster rpm.

Check all connections and make sure they are clean to the engine and everything you touched for the swap. Also make sure you have all the proper grounds installed. Very important!!!! A missing ground is the same as just cutting a power wire. You need two parts to fully complete a circut, Power and ground.

I have checked the ground on the firewall wall side and cleaned out the connections and firewall to where they bolt on. RPMS are still off on the cluster. Something i didnt mention was that the magnus write up has the drawing of the pin out wrong and i didnt check the color codes on the pins to the ecu. I just follwed the diagram and it resulted been the grounds and power supply pins for the ecu. When i crancked the car, the ignition fuse blew. There after it just wouldnt start, i just dont know if this damaged the ecu with link. Now that i inverted the mistake on the pins, and did the correct pin swappinf based on color codes which are the injector pins, the car starts but with the rpm difference and my wideband says im running lean, its over 18.


Thanks for all your help and replies.
 
Last edited:
Are you saying the Magnus schematic is incorrect or it was just not followed closely resulting in a blow fuse?

Ill double check this, but im almost certain the ecu pin out diagram is wrong compared to my harness looking at it as indicated with the guides that go into the ecu.

Test power transistors-
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...-how-test-power-transistors.html#post50386400

Also, it doesn't hurt to bolt down the transistor unit somewhere on the intake manifold. The back of the unit serves as a heatsink as well as an additional grounding point.

the transistor is bolted to the front of the cyclon without the original bracket. could this be the issue? should i mounted with it?
 
You don't have to use the OE bracket specifically, no.

Ok. ill check the ground going to the manifold and assure the heat shield side is touching the mani for grounding. ill also do the transistor test.

thanks. ill be updating as i reach results.

Are you saying the Magnus schematic is incorrect or it was just not followed closely resulting in a blow fuse?

Test power transistors-
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...-how-test-power-transistors.html#post50386400

Also, it doesn't hurt to bolt down the transistor unit somewhere on the intake manifold. The back of the unit serves as a heatsink as well as an additional grounding point.

Problem Solved. i had the white cable broken from the transistor box. i repaired it and idles are steady and real. i didnt have time to datalog it, but i will do this on the weekend and have my buddy help me double check timing and do some fine tunning.

thanks for your tips.:hellyeah:
 
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