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Do people tack weld the converter bolts w/kiggly flexpate?

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awdspyder98

10+ Year Contributor
121
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Dec 31, 2011
houston, Texas
Just wondering if people are tack welding the flexplate to converter bolts on the kiggly flexplate? Just wondering if the problem persists on the bolts loosing after the install?
 
I've never heard of that on any application tbh. Plus I thought that was the point of going with the kiggly plate?

Right in the description: "Thicker and Stiffer design helps keep bolts tight in high power applications".
 
As a Machinist and Weldor (different than a "welder") I would advise against EVER welding to the flex plate, the reason being that the weld will be strong which is good but the area efffeted by the heat of the weld (HAZ or "heat affected zone) becomes the weakest point in the material, so the bolts would then have more chance to wear at the holes making them oblong and creating play where the bolts can do damage or be loose enough to take a shock load from launching and slowing and eventually shear in two.. The tacks wouldn't be strong enough to fight the torsional forces of the driveline even if this wasn't the case. Most tack welds can be broken by hand, so your best bet is safety wire and or red loctite the bolts, safety wire being my choice although drilling the bolts for the safety wire would require at least carbide or cobalt bits (not cobalt brand from lowes though LOL )
 
I've never heard of that on any application tbh. QUOTE]

Im suprised.. Most autos that are over 350-400whp usually has to tack weld the bolts so they dont come loose.. esp if your balance shafts are deleted. Tack welding + stock flex plate has held up for a few years for me, maybe Im one of the lucky ones.. but as soon as I hit over 450+whp.. thats when the flex plate broke.
 
Why don't more people use safety wire? It's so cool and works so well.
 
Why don't more people use safety wire? It's so cool and works so well.

I personally dont use saftey wire because its not available for us to purchase the bolts predrilled. I dont have the equipment to be able to drill my own bolts. Im assuming you need a special drill bit.
 
As a Machinist and Weldor (different than a "welder")

That's kind of like the snobby people with English accents (fake or real) who insist that "flutist" is incorrect and that they must be called "flautist."
 
Yup, safety wire is definitely the way to go. You'll spend a little money doing it, but doing something right almost always costs more. Gotta pay to play. And it's never a bad thing for a 'car guy' to be adding to his tool collection.

wire and pliers - $30
drilling fixture - $40
carbide drill bit - $10

So, for $80, you now have the ability to drill and safety any bolt on your vehicle. Do a few for your friends and make your money back instantly.
 
Whats wrong with sfi plate, arp bolts, and loctite? It works on a 1100hp baja for years, a 600whp big block, several 400whp dsm's.

How does weld and wire effect the balance? A tack with enough penetration to be of any use will have a measurable amount of weight. And like glenn said above, the heat from the welds will most definitely effect the strength of the bolt and the plate. All these ideas seemed "rigged" imo
 
Why don't more people use safety wire?


Regarding safety wire, one would attach them all together correct? I've no experience with flexplate-bolt issues and I hope I never do, but would the wire prevent them from turning in the slightest?

How "loose" does that bolt have to get before it can shear? I understand and appreciate the concept of safety wire, but I'm not sure its function is to maintain the initial torque of the fastener in the same way red locktite is.


Kiggly's suggestion noted here: Kiggly Racing - kigglyracing.com
 
Bingo, straight from kiggly

"Bolts - in all applications, converter bolts should be tightened to 50ft-lbs or greater with red loctite. Re-torque the bolts after the first heat cycle."

"Up to about 500whp, 100ft-lbs with red loctite works fine."

"Up to about 700-800whp, 130ft-lbs with red loctite works fine"
 
Agreed with 91stocker.

I welded two flex plates together and used red loctite on the bolts. If the plate break, I'll pick up a kiggly plate (assuming he's making 7 bolt plates now...). I saw ARP converter bolts for our cars on one of our vendor websites the other day, I might look into those, but tightening stock bolts real tight with red threadlocker should be enough.
 
Yup, safety wire is definitely the way to go. You'll spend a little money doing it, but doing something right almost always costs more. Gotta pay to play. And it's never a bad thing for a 'car guy' to be adding to his tool collection.

wire and pliers - $30
drilling fixture - $40
carbide drill bit - $10

So, for $80, you now have the ability to drill and safety any bolt on your vehicle. Do a few for your friends and make your money back instantly.

Interesting.. You wouldn't have a link with a write up on how to do this would you?
 
Yeah, it puts tension on the bolt to pull it towards being torqued down

Ah, I get it. :cool: The bolts attach to one another in a staggered fashion, each bolt effectively tightening the other. Assuming the wire tension was properly set this seems like an effective solution.

Still, I am yet convinced it's a better option than red locktite in this application.

I just got up close to a big military gun and there is safety wire on everything. If it's going to keep the bolts on that tight, it will keep your converter tight.

Although notable and certainly field-tested, I'd surmise each operate under distinct conditions. One of the benefits of safety wire is easy visual confirmation. The big gun benefits, the converter does not.

The example I would rely on is Kiggly's race car.
 
Kiggly said he had tied safety wire back in the day on the converter bolts. It did fine at keeping the bolts from spinning, but the issue they had back then was the bolts were stretching and allowing the converter to come loose. Either way, it's not a bad idea.

It would be sweet is there was an 8740 chromoly bolt option for us.
 
I assume the 2G bolts are 1.25 pitch? 12mm x 1.25 x 16mm long?

ARP offers a set for Porsche that are damn close. The thread is right but they're 19.5mm long.

Hmm, that reminded me of a line from the kiggly link.

"We expect to have our first run of 2g custom bolts in early 2012 as there are no available options for a low-head bolt that fits. Until then, either use OEM bolts which are a little short, or grind the bolt heads shorter on an M10x16mm. Crankshaft bolts should be OEM. The 17mm long option from the 1g 5-spd is about the right length. You can also use OEM ring gear bolts cut to length. "


Well never mind LOL
 
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