Tie Rod End

[tay97gst]

Alright so i feel like an idiot asking this, but i went to firestone to get an alignment and they said they couldnt perform the alignment until i replaced my right REAR tie rod end. So i said ok let me do it myself, they were trying to charge me 160$ to do it WTF. Well today i jack up the rear right tire and can not find any evidence of a tie rod end... am i an idiot and can not just find it or is there no tie rod on the rear? Maybe he meant front, or maybe i just heard rear, but can someone confirm that there isnt a tie rod on the rear of my gst or am i blind?

 

[SPYDERGSTTUNER]

You are absolutely right, there is no tie rod end in the rear. We don't steer with the rear wheels, tie rod ends(inner) connect directly to your steering rack then to the sleeve and onto the outer tie rod ends. Plus the rear has no adjustment that's why companies make those rear camber kits which consists of nothing but bolts,washers, and a little plate to attach to the rear A-arms.

 

[jtmcinder]

As much as I enjoy ragging on grease-monkeys, this is not so far off. They simply used the wrong name. They should have said "toe arms" instead of "tie-rod ends."

The rear toe-arms on 2Gs are known to seize and prevent anyone from aligning the car. They are absolutely correct that they need to be replaced before an alignment can be done. And, I'm sorry to say, they are a biotch to get out when they seize; you usually have to cut them out.

Verify that they really were having problem with the rear and, if that's the problem, order the parts and get ready for a nasty day of work or a nasty labor bill. Do not try to replace seized toe arms yourself on jackstands. That would be awful.

edit: reading pwns me ... $160 to replace both rear toe-arms is actually a decent deal, as long as this is a firm offer and not a guess based on how long they think it will take them to do it

 

[tay97gst]

As much as I enjoy ragging on grease-monkeys, this is not so far off. They simply used the wrong name. They should have said "toe arms" instead of "tie-rod ends."

The rear toe-arms on 2Gs are known to seize and prevent anyone from aligning the car. They are absolutely correct that they need to be replaced before an alignment can be done. And, I'm sorry to say, they are a biotch to get out when they seize; you usually have to cut them out.

Verify that they really were having problem with the rear and, if that's the problem, order the parts and get ready for a nasty day of work or a nasty labor bill. Do not try to replace seized toe arms yourself on jackstands. That would be awful.

edit: reading pwns me ... $160 to replace both rear toe-arms is actually a decent deal, as long as this is a firm offer and not a guess based on how long they think it will take them to do it

it was 160$ to replace one of them , i'll have to go back and see if they really meant rear or not. Thank you.

 

[jtmcinder]

$160 a side better include parts. Then it's OK. Not great, but if you don't have a lift and a torch or sawsall, then you'll need them to do it for you. Replacing rear toe-arms on a 2G - which is something you will almost definitely have to do at some point if you don't live in a place like Arizona - is a total PITA.

edit: if you plan on keeping the car for a while, I would go ahead and replace both rear toe-arms at the same time. Just get it over with. But, then again, I have more money than most DSM owners, so feel free to ignore this part.

 

[tay97gst]

Well since I had the tie rod end i figured i'd go ahead and just replace the right one. Well I cannot for the life of me get the stupid stud of the tie rod end apart from the knuckle. Ive tried a prybar, a hammer, a clamp, pb blaster... It will not budge. I dont have a pickle fork, should i just go get one?

 

[jtmcinder]

If you're replacing the end, then the fact that pickle-forks often destroy the boot isn't an issue, so go ahead. The trick I used was alternately heating the ear on the knuckle vs the stud; not heating both at once; alternating. Then it was Hammer Time!

 

[tay97gst]

If you're replacing the end, then the fact that pickle-forks often destroy the boot isn't an issue, so go ahead. The trick I used was alternately heating the ear on the knuckle vs the stud; not heating both at once; alternating. Then it was Hammer Time!

Alright time to get the blow torch! And just so I feel better, the only thing that holds the tie rod end to the knuckle is the nut on the bottom and the cotter pin correct? I think the rust just welded the stud to the knuckle but want to make sure nothing else is holding it in place.

 

[jtmcinder]

Yep. Once the nut is off, it's just the rust and friction.

Also, a stud-pusher - when you can get them on and I think you can with a tie-rod - is often good. These things: http://www.google.com/#q=tie-rod+st..._pw.r_qf.&fp=ce62f954378a6ed&biw=1280&bih=639

 

[2slow4now]

If you do get the arms and eccentric bolts replaced make sure when it's put back together to have plenty of anti-seize applied to help prevent it from rust locking again.

 

[tay97gst]

Ok well I want to let everyone know that after 3 hours of hitting it with everything I had, i went to autozone and rented a pickle fork. 30 Seconds and the tie rod end was in my hand... I guess it pays to have the right tool for the job!