Smoking Manifold after Install

[vpr131]

I recently installed my manifold as I said in another thread and there was smoke coming from it for the first couple minutes (from grease, sweat, and oil as you guys suggested on here) but it stopped for the most part. The only part where smoke is barely leaking out is around the corner where the manifold connects to the turbo where a stud got stuck and I am not able to move it through to tighten it.. So now my question do you think it would be safe to drive to a mechanic who would be able to get this stud out? Its just smoking a little bit so I feel like it would be ok to drive for a short period of time.

Also, I was wondering if any mechanic would have the tool to get this stud out or would I have to ask around?

 

[Twinturbo120]

You'll be alright, just don't go wot

 

[vpr131]

ok cool, I still dont even know who is going to have a tool that will be able to get this stud out..

 

[NHerron]

I'd say you'll be fine for the time being. Worst things are exhaust fumes in the cabin, trashed manifold to turbo gasket, loss of power/fuel milage.

What identifiers are on the bolt head? Is it an OEM six point hex with a number "11" or an ARP 12point head? It's not unusual for these bolts to be tough to remove

 

[vpr131]

I have an extra gasket anyways so that ok.. But all I know is that its m10x1.25 stud. Im not sure what kind or anything because there isnt a head on it to tell me its kind of my fault anyways since i tried to muscle it out which i think made it even more stuck..

Do you think is stud removal kit from autozone is legit? if it is, I could just do it on my own
OEM/Metric Stud Remover Set (27140) | Stud Remover Set | AutoZone.com

 

[cl1ckclack]

Yeah, you will be find to drive it. Most likely youll just have a very slow spool

 

[DSMReviver]

The last time mine leak form the exhaust manifold was because the lower center whole stud was leaking oil and the oil was being burnt. After taking off the manifold, i found out some of my valve seal had failed too.

 

[NHerron]

Gotcha. Well the other 3 bolts are probably six sided with the "11" marking then. I don't remember how much that stud sticks out above the manifold, but you might be able to use this method without having to drop the turbo assembly.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...217981-how-remove-exhaust-manifold-studs.html

If the double nut method don't work, I doubt the stud extractor from autozone will.

 

[vpr131]

I looked at that method just a few minutes before you posted it here. My problem is that there isnt enough room on the stud to put 2 nuts and the wrench on at the same time

 

[ktgurl87]

Can you take a picture of it?

 

[vpr131]

As you can see in the pic, there is a nut on the bottom end. However, this is the farthest it will go so I am doubtful that I could get 2 nuts and a wrench on one end. The stud itself is a little stripped but I am still able to put nuts on it.

Could a mechanic possibly weld the nut on the stud so that rotating it with a wrench would move the entire stud instead of just the nut? This was my problem today because the nut start rotating once the stud started moving..

 

[NHerron]

Yeah I would either weld the nut on and that instant heat might free up the threads OR cut the stud flush and progressively drill a bigger and bigger hole until the stud frees up. At some point, take the nut off and clamp a good set of vise grips on the stud and try to rotate it.

 

[Crave]

Have you tried heating up the stud first? You could always file the stud square and use some vise grips to turn it, because the stud is already trashed.

 

[NHerron]

^Come to think of it, that's how I got mine out.

Check this picture out. The stud pictured, was able to be removed this way, even in this small place. The stud you have, has even more room to play (minus the oil feed), I'm sure vice grips would do the trick. If you have a torch, heat up the flange area around the stud and, 'whala'.

Another thing to try is apply heat to the stud itself, away from the flange so that way, the heat will travel up the stud. Now take a piece of candle and through capillary reaction, it might suck the wax down into the threads.

 

[Crave]

I've had to take a few out that way also.

 

[vpr131]

Have you tried heating up the stud first? You could always file the stud square and use some vise grips to turn it, because the stud is already trashed.

what could i use as far as basic tools are concerned to file it? I only have a few tools right now and Im not trying to spend too much.

I would use a torch to heat it up but like i said, I dont have much money to spend right now.

 

[bryanwheat]

what could i use as far as basic tools are concerned to file it? I only have a few tools right now and Im not trying to spend too much.

I would use a torch to heat it up but like i said, I dont have much money to spend right now.

If you don't have any tools to work remove the bolt than i would just remove the turbine housing and take it to someone to remove.

 

[vpr131]

If you don't have any tools to work remove the bolt than i would just remove the turbine housing and take it to someone to remove.

yeah i think thats what im gonna do because im tired of taking apart and putting the manifold back together

 

[zcox122]

I had one like that, i got a gator grip from walmart and it got it out.

 

[bryanwheat]

yeah i think thats what im gonna do because im tired of taking apart and putting the manifold back together

Just unbolt the downpipe from the o2 housing and remove the v band clamp from the turbine and it will come right apart from the rest.

 

[mattasi]

Nice man get that fixed, that has got to be anoying.

 

[gotclutch23]

We just used a $10 easy out from menards it worked fine

 

[NHerron]

If it's loose enough, an easy out would work. But these bolts/studs get very frozen and if an easy out tip breaks off, it makes life much harder than it needs to be, if not impossible.