ECMlink v3 WOT Tune Epic Fail

[bstaley]

I have a big problem, 2nd gear WOT from 2k only reaches 3.5k and riches out. I really need help here is the log.

 

[snowborder714]

Try posting a 3rd gear log. We typically do not tune 2nd gear.

 

[bstaley]

The second wot is third gear

 

[snowborder714]

1. Uncheck the front o2 box on the DTC tab. This will stop the current DTC from being thrown.
2. On the ALS/Knock tab, increase the TPS % to 25-30%.
3. You're going rich because that's what the stock direct access (DA) map is setup for. I see you have leaned it out a bit via the sliders, but I'd recommend using only the maps for fuel and timing.
4. You're going rich after adjusting the sliders because you haven't adjusted the MAF Comp sliders to get AFRatioEst and the LC-1 values lined up. You can use the WBFactor value to show how much you need to adjust the sliders at the specified Hz values.

 

[bstaley]

Great advice! Made a ton of progress with that tip as you can see in my 26th try below. Though for some reason im getting capped at around 10-13 psi of boost. Also it never seems to go over 4500 rpm.

 

[snowborder714]

Check your TPS (seeing only a max of 93%) and get me another log. I don't want to make adjustments for you if your TPS isn't at 100%.
v3tpsadj [ECMTuning - wiki]

It's better, but can still use some adjustments.


Also, not quite sure what you mean on being capped at 10-13 psi. Do you have a boost controller, stock BCS, or are you just running the wastegate line directly to the boost source? Obviously your boost won't increase if you don't have a way (e.g. MBC) to increase it.

 

[boost97gst]

Like sno said, change your DA max oct table to target closer to 11:1 under higher loads, not 10.2 or even richer... Then more mafcomps to get lc1 to match up nice. Have you tried the evo8mod1 DA tables? Theyre a good starting point that i believe mr sno himself suggestd to me awhile back. Much better than stock IMO and you will need to adjust less dramatically.

 

[bstaley]

Woo shes running a lot better than yesterday here's the latest log.

 

[snowborder714]

Can you post up an idle log with the car warmed up?

Also, have you done a BLT lately? How high up did you test and for how long did it hold?

Something just seems really off for having your MAF Comp sliders down in the -30% (almost -40%) range on a stock MAS.

 

[bstaley]

Here is an idle log i just took.

I haven't done a blt since before the tb rebuild. I rebuilt the tb because the fiav had a leak. I will do one tomorrow. I thought it was getting pretty crazy with all of those so far down, then again I'm a noob . Also so your aware my profile is up to date.

 

[snowborder714]

Everything looks pretty good. AirflowPerRev seems a bit on the low side (should be around .26) so you could make some adjustments in regards to that (raise 0 and 50 Hz sliders). Then obviously readjust deadtime to get CombinedFT back in check.

Does your car have a tendency to overheat just sitting there? Something you might want to look into. Your car temp jumped up 14° in just over 2.5 minutes. And it ended at 210° which is where the ECU starts to pull 1° of timing. Either make sure your fans are working or switch out your coolant mixture to something more water based.

Post up after you've had the chance to do a BLT.

 

[bstaley]

Everything looks pretty good. AirflowPerRev seems a bit on the low side (should be around .26) so you could make some adjustments in regards to that (raise 0 and 50 Hz sliders). Then obviously readjust deadtime to get CombinedFT back in check.

Does your car have a tendency to overheat just sitting there? Something you might want to look into. Your car temp jumped up 14° in just over 2.5 minutes. And it ended at 210° which is where the ECU starts to pull 1° of timing. Either make sure your fans are working or switch out your coolant mixture to something more water based.

Post up after you've had the chance to do a BLT.

I have the feeling that my temp gauge is not correct because it never goes over half. I looked at some other logs and it seems to get up to 219 degrees. When i do the blt ill check the of ratio of antifreeze to water.

 

[fallenauthority]

I have the feeling that my temp gauge is not correct because it never goes over half. I looked at some other logs and it seems to get up to 219 degrees. When i do the blt ill check the of ratio of antifreeze to water.

Well your temp gauge works off of a seperate temp sensor that is used solely for the gauge in your dash. The ECU uses a different temp sensor for engine management purposes. The dash gauges have a wide "margin of error" so to speak. Always best to closely monitor temps in link when logging and tuning.

 

[boost97gst]

Youre running 43psi at the rail right? Just thought id ask cause that could possibly have an effect on those weird mafcomps. Up the airflow and change those damn DA oct tables for gods sake! Your still running way rich. Just for starters, plug in 11.0:1 in all of the higher load areas and see where that takes you. In one spot on the log it almost seems as tho your getting rich knock. Its dipping into the 9s(actual afr) which is not right.

Oh hes absolutely right about the temp gauge: I have hit 223 on the highway in 110 ambient temps a couple weeks ago, temp needle was right in the middle . It hits the middle mark at maybe 150 or less on my car, its what id call a basic "dummy gauge". Totally non linear

 

[bstaley]

Also, have you done a BLT lately? How high up did you test and for how long did it hold?

Well, my turbo xs bov is junk; I put my 1g on and that fixed it. Though my j-pipe gasket is shot. More tomorrow.

Youre running 43psi at the rail right?

I assume, i don't have a FPR yet...

 

[rEclipserGST]

Well, my turbo xs bov is junk; I put my 1g on and that fixed it. Though my j-pipe gasket is shot. More tomorrow.



I assume, i don't have a FPR yet...

A stock fpr usually runs 43 psi on a 2g.

 

[boost97gst]

My fault, didnt check his mod list. Assumed he had an afpr.

 

[bstaley]

Alright finished the blt got it up to about 20 PSi and and held for aprox a min. Now I'm just waiting for the rtv to cure.

 

[bstaley]

Well that helped out a lot, im getting double the boost now and my sliders look a lot better. Take a look.

Up the airflow and change those damn DA oct tables for gods sake! Your still running way rich. Just for starters, plug in 11.0:1 in all of the higher load areas and see where that takes you. In one spot on the log it almost seems as tho your getting rich knock.

Do i have to adjust my timing too or wont I know until I run it? And which way would i change it, most of the time is it up?

 

[snowborder714]

1. Keep an eye on your InjDuty value. Anything above 80-85% is not good. We'll bring this value down by leaning it out, but just a heads up. The pull above shows 97% IDC's.

2. MAF Comp sliders are a bit better but still off. See attached file for suggested changes. I also smoothed them out. There were some not-so-smooth areas in there.

3. We're going to lean out the MaxOct DA table by using the Evo 8 mod1 as a starting point and then adjusting the WOT range. Again, see attached file.

4. I also loaded in the Evo 8 mod1 timing table. Please keep an eye on knock while doing a pull and if you see any, back off the timing in the area where it starts. You can use the "Track datalog" button on the DA table while navigating through the log to see what values are being used at certain points in the log.

5. Please look at the changes I made, try to understand why I did them, and ask any questions if you don't understand. This should line up your airflow much better, lean you out to 11:1 at WOT (which will add some more power and bring down the IDC %), and upped the timing a bit. Again, watch for knock and let off if you see any and then adjust timing DA table at onset of knock.

 

[bstaley]

Yes! With those settings the WBFactor was really close. There was some random knock but it didn't get over .7 degrees. Though the injector duty got up to 95% again. Here's the pull:

 

[snowborder714]

Looking pretty good for a small 16g

1. You can go through if you want and get the LC-1 and AFRatioEst lines closer. Just go by each Hz value in the MAF Comp screen and find that area on the graph via MAF Raw value. Then drop the slider if the WBFactor value is negative or raise if positive by the amount displayed. For example, for 1600 Hz, you need to drop the slider between 3% and 4%. If you don't care to adjust, not a huge deal as it's pretty darn close.

2. You need bigger injectors! You knew it was coming sooner or later. So either don't get into boost at the current settings, drop boost down to ~20 psi, or invest in something like an 1150cc injector.

3. Again, you can go drop the timing 1° in the DA table where you see the knock if you want. .7 is not bad at all though, and nothing to worry about.

 

[bstaley]

Looking pretty good for a small 16g

1. You can go through if you want and get the LC-1 and AFRatioEst lines closer. Just go by each Hz value in the MAF Comp screen and find that area on the graph via MAF Raw value. Then drop the slider if the WBFactor value is negative or raise if positive by the amount displayed. For example, for 1600 Hz, you need to drop the slider between 3% and 4%. If you don't care to adjust, not a huge deal as it's pretty darn close.

2. You need bigger injectors! You knew it was coming sooner or later. So either don't get into boost at the current settings, drop boost down to ~20 psi, or invest in something like an 1150cc injector.

3. Again, you can go drop the timing 1° in the DA table where you see the knock if you want. .7 is not bad at all though, and nothing to worry about.

Brian thank you so much for your help! I have another project a 95 awd tsi so all this info you shared will go a long way, again thank you so much!

 

[snowborder714]

No problem!