tuning help (start off)

[zcox122]

I bought this car about a month ago. And iv had a lot of little problems with it like the alternator, ect. It ran ok though (when running) until the wastegate actuator went out. I replaced it and now it wont run as good. I finally got into the tuning process and hooked it up (its dsmlink 2.5) and im pretty sure thats whats wrong with it. Iv been reading up a lot on tuning for the past week trying to understand all that i can from it and i still have questions like where do i actually start. It was a project and thanks to my other car dying and being on its way to scrap it will have to be my d.d within the next few days or its being sold. Any help on where to start or tips in general are appreciated. I was trying to not need to post on here but i cant find anything else online. The car b.t.w is a 91 talon tsi awd with full fmic, 550cc injectors, 14b stock turbo, wb02, boost gauge, and i dont actually know what else because i never got a hold of the guy who built it. ( person who owned it befor the person before me.)

 

[tkstoygsx]

Start with the basics. be sure your plugs and wires are new or good, be sure all Vacuum leaks are fixed and sensors are all working properly and that you have the correct fuel pressure. Once you have done this, the car should atleast idle for you to log the sensors and let us know the specs.

 

[AlaskanDsm]

ECMtuning has a lot of information available in case you haven't looked at it previously.

ECMTuning, Inc.
start [ECMTuning - wiki]

The videos provide a lot of great information as well as the information in the Wiki may be more aimed at the ECU in general, but does have some information about DSMLink as well.

 

[punxnotdead185]

Do you have a 2g maf to go with those 550's? If not you should just be able to start out with going like -18% global to compensate for the extra 100cc's

 

[zcox122]

iv started it since i posted this now. Yes i have a 2g maf. And everytime i tried to get into the emc tuning wiki it wouldnt let me. Which is part of the reason i posted on here. Everything is checked and it idles and drives. I will get a little knock from time to time ( i always have link open when driving it) but mostly now i only get one big one at about 4500rpm at wot. But i do have a question about that. At wot it will be fine until about 3700rpm and then ill get a little pop out the exaust and when it crosses over to about 4700rpm there will be a lot in a row. Pop Pop Pop. Iv read that its from jumps in the a:f ratio in the car but what do i change to try and "even" those out.

 

[WES_393]

Are you logging your wideband? What is your A/F ratio when the "popping" occurs?

Your basically just shooting for a target A/F ratio (such as 11:1). When you get it to there, pull timing in the problem area(s) to prevent the knock. You could use the "sliders" to make these adjustments, but it's much more accurate to use the DA tables.

 

[99boostedgst]

interested in the question here because mine is doing this to... but its at about 5000 rpms

dustin

 

[zcox122]

I have link 2.5 so no da tables unfortunetly. Thats one of the problems iv been having is everything i find is v3. I believe it is running rich and jumps to around 9:1 I will have to look tomorrow. How do you post logs of here? Ill post one if you can help with what to log spicifically ( sorry for spelling). But now im having this problem with my boost. My gauge jumps to ten psi ( used to steadily rise to 24 then drop with shift) then it sits there while when not in WOT the car fails to go past 3000rpm without poking it hard with a big stick.

 

[WES_393]

Down in the 9's is very rich at WOT. It's possible you have a boost leak. That would explain the low boost, bad running condition, and the wideband reading rich. So I would do a boost leak test before going any farther. Otherwise you'll just be tuning in circles.

For the A/F ratio you would want it between 10.9-11.5 depending on how lean you can get without knock issues (some can go higher, but rarely). Take a log of a WOT pull from 2K RPM to redline (or until you run into an issue) and study the log. Then slowly take fuel at the needed RPM points using the slider. Once the A/F ratio is where you like it, use the timing slider to pull timing at certain RPM's where you see knock. That should get you a pretty reliable and safe tune.

 

[zcox122]

Ok. Iv been pulling timing until the knock was gone. I on 91 pump and the car was tuned before for 93. They dont sell that in this town. But i was wondering about switching to e85. Are 550cc's large enough for that with a 14b turbo? A guy i know runs it with 650cc's but im not sure.

 

[mchustle]

No I think the smallest for e85 would be around 750cc, and that probly still pushing it.



Here look at the bottom. baseinjectordata [ECMTuning - wiki]

 

[zcox122]

Kind of an update i guess. I got it to idle good. Cruize good. But in wot it runs good until about 5000rpm now and then freaks out with pops. The afr jumps from low 11s to mid 12s and back again over and over till i let off or it shifts. So do you think i should add fuel or take?

Oh and idle good is like 13.5ish and cruize is a little under that. Is that truly right though for 91 pump?

 

[mchustle]

Idle and cruise should be around 14.5-14.7 so your a little rich there, post a log and you should get more help.

 

[zcox122]

i was trying to find how to post the logs. help?

 

[mchustle]

I should really make a tech article for posting logs since you are the third or fourth person I've told how.
Go to the bottom of the page where you post a reply, hit "go advanced", when it loads there will be a space to upload, hit browse, find the file on your pc, click it, then hit the button to post.

 

[garrettjames70]

In one of the post's it was lightly touched on that you should do a boost leak test. I have bought, fixed up and sold quite a few dsm's and this is usually step one for me. Im not sure if you know how,but i have a quick and accurate way that i was shown years ago.

Pull the line off your blow off valve, take a small piece of electrical tape and put it over the air inlet to the blow off valve.

Take your air filter of the maf sensor. Take the pipe clamp off the air filter. Get a plastic bag(like a huge ziplock or somthing with no holes) rap it around the open end of the maf where the air filter went on. Slide the pipe clamp over the bag and tighten it down its sealed but not locked on.

Adjust your air compressor down to about 27 to 34 psi and stick a blow gun in the blow off valve hose. Make sure your work area is absolutly silent. Start to apply some air pressure to your intake.

Only two things can happen now.

1. You have air leaks and you can hold air pressure as long as you want,if this is the case, move your hands around the intake and turbo to find the leak. I have have some tough one that i could find but i could here and what also helps is a little water in a spray bottle. If you think you have an idea of where the leak is spray it with water and that apply air, you will see bubbles.

2. The bag blows off the maf and you just ruled out boost leaks.

Hope this helped!!!!

 

[TalonJohn94]

That's a good idea.

But is it possible to cause a boost leak while doing a BLT at 35+ PSI?

 

[garrettjames70]

That's a good idea.

But is it possible to cause a boost leak while doing a BLT at 35+ PSI?

No not at all, the way you are feeding air into your system is very different. If you try to test a lower psi...lets say you plan to run the car at 18psi so you test it there. Once the air leaves the compressor,goes throught the hose and through everything else you would have about 2 psi back by the turbo. I have always built cars on the premise if i plan to run 20psi all the time i should bulid the car to hold 30+. i have tested as high as 60psi on stuff i have built to run high psi and have had no issues doing it.