Dsm link question for future referance

[blasterracer817]

My question about Dsm link is. Is it possible to have dsm link switch on a secondary fuel pump and set of injectors when the motor hits boost?
example:
Lets say im running 750 injectors with a walbro 255lph in the stock tank running 89 octain for just cruising the streets, however if I went to a race or canyon run etc and got into boost could it Link be programmed to switch on a secondary set of injectors like 2000s and a second walbro 255lph in an eight gallon fuel cell than is filled with 116 cl so you could get a 100-105 octain mixture when in boost?
The second reason to this would be fuel economy while daily driving, If I was running a set of 2200 injectors I think I would be spraying a little more gas than needed for a 65mph cruise down the highway with no boost.

Any input appreciated,
thanks

 

[Calan]

My question about Dsm link is. Is it possible to have dsm link switch on a secondary fuel pump and set of injectors when the motor hits boost?

Not based on boost directly, but you can program the EGR or FPS solenoid outputs to be activated based on several conditions such as TPS, Loadfactor, RPM, etc. As far as the injectors, you can't directly "turn on" a different set, but you could switch to a different set of maps for fueling and timing. If you got inventive, you could probably figure out a way to switch injector banks by rerouting the injector driver outputs or their power source via the solenoid outputs, but I'm not sure why that would be necessary.

In your case, a combination of LoadFactor and throttle conditions would accomplish basically the same thing as triggering off of boost.

 

[WES_393]

The second reason to this would be fuel economy while daily driving, If I was running a set of 2200 injectors I think I would be spraying a little more gas than needed for a 65mph cruise down the highway with no boost.

Larger injectors won't necessarily be spraying more fuel. Especially at cruise when your targeting certain A/F ratios. The "2200cc" rating is the maximum flow rate, not the constant flow rate. I personally like a car to either do something or not. Flipping switches, pushing buttons, and setting up solenoids for "race mode" just doesn't sound appealing. You could set the car up on E85, a large frame turbo, and all the appropriate supporting mods. Then when it's time to race just push the gas pedal down farther than usual. Don't want to burn all your gas? Drive like a normal person and stay out of boost.

Not trying to shoot the idea down (because it IS possible like Calan described), but the old adage that holds true is KISS: Keep It Simple Stupid. You could flip the car into race mode, one of the fuel pumps fail, and boom goes the bottom end. With 1 fuel pump, 1 fuel tank, 1 set of injectors, 1 fuel type, and 1 tune there is relatively very little to go wrong.

Just my 2 cents.

 

[Calan]

Excellent advice ^.

It's amazing how much control you have over fuel flow, power, and gas mileage by simply modulating that pedal on the right.

 

[blasterracer817]

Larger injectors won't necessarily be spraying more fuel. Especially at cruise when your targeting certain A/F ratios. The "2200cc" rating is the maximum flow rate, not the constant flow rate. I personally like a car to either do something or not. Flipping switches, pushing buttons, and setting up solenoids for "race mode" just doesn't sound appealing. You could set the car up on E85, a large frame turbo, and all the appropriate supporting mods. Then when it's time to race just push the gas pedal down farther than usual. Don't want to burn all your gas? Drive like a normal person and stay out of boost.

Not trying to shoot the idea down (because it IS possible like Calan described), but the old adage that holds true is KISS: Keep It Simple Stupid. You could flip the car into race mode, one of the fuel pumps fail, and boom goes the bottom end. With 1 fuel pump, 1 fuel tank, 1 set of injectors, 1 fuel type, and 1 tune there is relatively very little to go wrong.

Just my 2 cents.

Thanks for the answer on this. My hopes with the car is to have a car which can be driven reliably with descent milage but has enough power for canyon or hill runs and autocross. I'm still trying to figure out what kind of set up I would want to use but I do like the idea of not having to flip switches etc.

 

[Calan]

You need to fill out your profile with more detail...if everything else is stock, please put "stock" in those areas.

What kind of power are you making, or hope to make? Unless you are building a full-on drag or time-attack car (which I doubt, since you are concerned with mileage ... an E16g or 20g, a good set of 1250-1350 injectors, rewired 255hp pump, AFPR, ECMLink, and (optimally) E85 fuel will give you about everything you need for a very fun (ie quick), reliable, and fuel efficient DD.

 

[blasterracer817]

I will get on filling the rest of my profile out, sorry about that.
The goal for the car is an autocross car that I could still drive around or to work for descently cheap, Im not sure what class autocross or if even a class, more of just a "for fun" thing. I would like to do a twin turbo setup, But I'm still planning on what I want to do. If anything I can always buy another one .

 

[Calan]

The goal for the car is an autocross car that I could still drive around or to work for descently cheap, Im not sure what class autocross or if even a class, more of just a "for fun" thing.

In that case, I'd toss an Evo 16g or maybe even a 14b on it. The rest of what I said stands, although you probably wouldn't need injectors larger than 1150's or so...but it never hurts to go a bit bigger. Proper maintenance and attention to the suspension should be your main priorities, since that turbo and fuel setup is easy and mostly bolt-on.

If you REALLY want to have fun and money isn't a big issue, go with a stroker setup and an e16g turbo. It's completely insane, but a hell of a lot of fun around an auto-x track and while merging onto an empty highway.

*****

With all due props to the people that have managed to make compound turbo (and other exotic) setups work on these cars, it's just not worth it for what you are wanting to accomplish. In fact, it's not even on the radar.

EDIT:

Unless you mean twin-scroll as danielbo91 mentioned VV (good catch).

 

[blasterracer817]

Thanks for the advice, maintanance and suspension are definatly on the list before anything else. And even if I cant buy it now, I can always save up for it. My goal with this car is to only buy what I need once to save money in the end. Even if it takes longer.

 

[danielbo91]

You meant to say twin scroll set up right not twin Turbo?

 

[blasterracer817]

No I did mean twin turbo, compound setup of course. I'm really in no rush to build this car out meaning I can save my money faster to build what I want and I only want to build once. It may cost alot of money but I could care less, you can't take it with ya when you pass on.

 

[Calan]

I only want to build once. It may cost alot of money but I could care less, you can't take it with ya when you pass on.

That is the right attitude, but a compound turbo setup is really out there. If you decide to go that route, you'll need a lot of experience under your belt with all aspects of these cars and custom fabrication, and at that point it will no longer be an auto-x DD.

Go with a stroked E16g setup; easy, reliable, quick, and proven. You'll gain the experience needed for when/if you decide to get crazy with a compound build, and you'll have a lot of fun along the way.

Just my .02 of course.