Launch Control Solenoid!!!

[red1993gsallmt]

What do you guys think? Anyone use this on a 1g? Magnus Motorsports » Blog Archive Launch Control Device |

 

[awdwhip]

http://m.youtube.com/#/watch?desktop_uri=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.youtube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DXhg1LJB20m4&v=Xhg1LJB20m4&gl=US

This was a vid from 08 so its been a while. It looks very similar to the one Magnus sells. I'm interested in it too but the price is somewhat pushing me away.

Here's a link to an RX-7 forum where they discuss the Tilton flow control valve and the Magnus launch control device.

Who here is running Tilton Flow Control for drag racing? - RX7Club.com

For added discussion I've also attached a thread from Talk below.

Making a Launch aide??? - DSM Forums: Mitsubishi Eclipse, Plymouth Laser, and Eagle Talon Forum: DSMtalk.com

 

[nfernotalon]

I know its old but has anyone tried this? Buschur doesnt sell it anymore i guess, but magnus does.

 

[awdwhip]

I don't think anyone has. Im over it though.

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[phunny]

Thought I'd add to this since I just finished my Magnus Launch Control Device install. So after shipping it's a little over $300 then you need to expect around another $200 in fitting and you will have to actually cut and drill your own fittings if you plan on using the stock clutch hardline.

This kit is so far from a plug-n-play it's really not even funny. I ended up taking it all apart and only using the valve and the solenoid. Partly because the way it come is just way to bulky to actually use in a street cars engine bay. I also decided to move the valve inside the car in the arm rest under the cup holder so the car still looks super clean. I should be able to head to the track within the next 2 weeks so I'll update this thread with some videos and thoughts. So far though this really does make a difference so hopefully the track times will reflect it.

 

[turboglenn]

Wow 275 bucks and doesn't even fit that's sad.. We use to use something very similar but air powered on our drag bike clutches, and i know from having the idea previousely that i could setup eiter a pneumatic release control or even a controled hydraulic unit like that on much cheaper, but to bne honest i'd ather have the pneumatic that way it isn't interfering with the fluid flow on the clutch system (but i'm a daily driver also) YOu can get hydraulic solenoids and control flow valves for about 75 bucks for the pair of them, then you just need lines and a way you choose to activate it. Hmm..anyway, enough of me , i'd like to hear about the satisfaction level after you're using it a little bit

EDIT: WOW those are the exact same flow control valves and solenoids i can buy locallyt in a pair for the above mentioend 75 bucks they are taking a lot of pride in their manufacture of those littlelines and the few AN fittings with it

Gl

 

[v8s_are_slow]

I'm just now seeing this thread. Just received mine from Magnus today and wondering how y'all are hooking it up to activate and deactivate it. I'm guessing you just run a power wire to one side and then ground the other wire to turn it on and activate it with a switch. But then how are you guys deactivating it? I'd imagine it'd be a pain to flip the switch on a hard launch when done with 1st gear.

Other than saying which side went to the slave cylinder and which side goes to the master cylinder, there wasn't anything else with it that suggest how to hook it up. And I know zero people that have this, other than you few guys I'm guessing???

 

[GSLENK]

Use ecmlink switches like nitrous controls to activate it like launch control. Use one of: EGR, BCS, etc.. signal wires. Don't forget the relay.

 

[Hal]

Use ecmlink switches like nitrous controls to activate it like launch control. Use one of: EGR, BCS, etc.. signal wires. Don't forget the relay.

This ^, except it's "deactivate it".

You want it "on" when you release the clutch, then use the link controls to "deactivate" it so that it's not "on" for your down track shifts.

Hal

 

[v8s_are_slow]

This ^, except it's "deactivate it".

You want it "on" when you release the clutch, then use the link controls to "deactivate" it so that it's not "on" for your down track shifts.

Hal

So basically, I just hook up the lines, and then I can run the wiring of the launch control device straight to the FPS wiring. Correct? I wouldn't need to make any changes to the ecu inputs? And would all of these settings be good?

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[Hal]

So basically, I just hook up the lines, and then I can run the wiring of the launch control device straight to the FPS wiring.[/IMG][/URL]

Use a relay

 

[v8s_are_slow]

So I put whatever type relay between the launch control device and the fuel pressure solenoid to keep the voltage down I'm guessing?

Other than that, the settings look okay??? Thanks.

 

[v8s_are_slow]

Bout to finally get around to installing this in the next couple of weeks or so, so I can drop in my new engine. Anyone have a part number for a relay to use?

 

[bastarddsm]

I wouldn't waste your time with it. I tried it, and it's soo far from what really needs to happen in clutch control it is rediculous. You need a device that will let the clutch enage to a certain point. Probably about 300ft*lbs worth of holding power, for an initial hit, and then slowly release it the rest of the way, finally achievine lockup by the time wheel speed has reached engine rpm.

Remember back in the day the fastest cars were on street discs using the old slipdump method.

The fastest pedal clutch cars, all use a revloc type clutch, and that operates just like a slip-dump.

 

[v8s_are_slow]

Well, I already spent the cash on it so I'd be stupid not to at least try it out. Besides, last time I was at the track, I bogged all my launches. I kept letting out on the clutch pedal too fast cause I was anxious. And if this keeps me consistant, great. If it doesn't work that great for me, I can always disable it or take it out. If I don't at least try it, I'll never know.

 

[my98gsx]

Any updates on this old thread? I am interested in this part as well... Hoping there is some more information on it now some 6+ years later.

 

[v8s_are_slow]

I ended up getting rid of mine and auto now anyway. Burned up a South Bend clutch trying to get it dialed in because it was releasing too slow. So I'm good without it. $600+ for a clutch to burn up was enough for me. It's a nice thought though.

 

[my98gsx]

v8s_are_slow, I was hoping you would revisit this thread, as you were one of the few who actually ran it. It appears that it may have a slight redesign now from pics I have seen floating around. Thank you for the review though, buring up a clutch to dial something in does not seem too smart for the money.

Waiting to see if anyone else has had a positive experience with this prior to me spending 300 bucks myself.

 

[v8s_are_slow]

If I were to do it again, I'd make sure it releases too quickly and adjust until it's slower, just to the rate that's needed.

 

[clutchtamer]

The Hitmaster does what you need- instant release to an adjustable pre-set 1st stage of partial clutch engagement, then the rest of the clutch clamp pressure comes in on a timer around a second later to limit slipping. Amount of partial engagement is knob adjustable with plenty of resolution for fine tuning. Typical tob pressure release curve is shaped like this...

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Hitmaster is like having two clutches in one- 1st stage dialed in for the best launch, 2nd stage then comes in for holding all the power you can make. I've got mine set up to re-activate on the shifts as well to keep the radials stuck, but the typical install is active on launch only.

Grant

 

[awdmonster1904]

If I were to do it again, I'd make sure it releases too quickly and adjust until it's slower, just to the rate that's needed.

it worked out for you ?
How many passes till you had to replace the clutch ?
I’m thinking about getting one of these for my setup.

 

[clutchtamer]

it worked out for you ?
How many passes till you had to replace the clutch ?
I’m thinking about getting one of these for my setup.

Ideally you want clutch psi to drop instantly to your "sweet spot" of partial engagement, then stay in the sweet spot for around a second or less. That dwell time in the sweet spot gives the car some time to gain speed before the clutch locks up. If the clutch locks up too quick, you get either spin, bog the engine, or break something. If the clutch locks up too late, excessive slipping smokes the clutch.

Here's the release curve shapes you get with the Magnus type "launch control"...

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Now imagine if your setup's "sweet spot" for a proper hit is around 150psi. None of these curves give you any sort of reasonable dwell time near the sweet spot, you only get that with clutch smoking delayed engagement. Preloading helps reduce reaction delay, but you will need to launch near the top of a full tree to cut a lite.

The Hitmaster's stepped release curve for comparison...

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Raise or lower the hit into the sweet spot with a simple knob adjustment, easy to adjust the timer setting to make sure the clutch doesn't slip any longer than it needs to. No need to pre-load the launch to save parts, as the clutch does not get to full clutch clamp pressure until after the timer times out.

Grant

 

[awdmonster1904]

Ideally you want clutch psi to drop instantly to your "sweet spot" of partial engagement, then stay in the sweet spot for around a second or less. That dwell time in the sweet spot gives the car some time to gain speed before the clutch locks up. If the clutch locks up too quick, you get either spin, bog the engine, or break something. If the clutch locks up too late, excessive slipping smokes the clutch.

Here's the release curve shapes you get with the Magnus type "launch control"...

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Now imagine if your setup's "sweet spot" for a proper hit is around 150psi. None of these curves give you any sort of reasonable dwell time near the sweet spot, you only get that with clutch smoking delayed engagement. Preloading helps reduce reaction delay, but you will need to launch near the top of a full tree to cut a lite.

The Hitmaster's stepped release curve for comparison...

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Raise or lower the hit into the sweet spot with a simple knob adjustment, easy to adjust the timer setting to make sure the clutch doesn't slip any longer than it needs to. No need to pre-load the launch to save parts, as the clutch does not get to full clutch clamp pressure until after the timer times out.

Grant

Thank you for the info
I was thinking about starting from no slip in to slip little by little how you log it like that ?

 

[clutchtamer]

Thank you for the info
I was thinking about starting from no slip in to slip little by little how you log it like that ?

Racepak logger with a pressure sensor on the throwout bearing bleed hose.

If you are logging a Magnus release curve, the yellow trace that ends at the 4sec mark is probably the best compromise. Not likely to break anything with that curve shape, but notice how long it takes to reach a meaningful level of engagement. Even if you pre-loaded down to 300psi, still takes a second or so to reach a meaningful level of engagement. Clutch would likely be slipping for 2+ seconds during launch...

Grant

 

[v8s_are_slow]

it worked out for you ?
How many passes till you had to replace the clutch ?
I’m thinking about getting one of these for my setup.

Nope, I had it release too slow and it overheated my clutch to the point that I had lockout issues when trying to shift due to one of the parts being warped I'm sure. And although it was probably my own dumb fault, that was enough for me. I then converted to a triple disk which didn't have enough clearance on the flywheel bolts on a NLTS and it made contact and blew up my transmission. Said screw it, and I'm now auto. The manual issues are behind me now thank goodness!!!