Should i just say F*(k it and go auto

[turboglenn]

as many know i blew the trans friday, well in frantic searching i can't seem to get ahold of anyone who builds the trannies to just get me an anwer on a few things over the weekend, I had hoped to order from Jacks but he isn't open until monday and i can't wait till tuesday just to find out what i'm doing before i even get started (not impatience, but need for vehicle due to variouse situations that if i can't get around will cost me big time in both time, legal fees and Doc appointments i still get charged for if i can't make it) I have a motorcycle but it's been constant rain lately

I found trans with a bad second gear grind so i can't put that in, just can't live with the conditioni was told it's in.. I also found a friend willing to give me 2 AWD trannies in trade for fab work and a turbo and such.. one he said is good but whines, the other is said not to be good, but doens'st have any shattered gears

MY only options at this point are to i guess try and build a trans myself while running the "decent" one from a friend, but the pain just aint gonna let me do two trans swaps before winter and funds won't allow me to afford it

So i was thinking about just saying f*9k it and going auto, i know i have to change the rear end and t-case with the trans but being stand alone what all would i have to do to make the 2g auto work/shift properly (my haltech can lock the converter) BUt can you manualize it like a 1g? Also, if i run a stock converter, should i have any issues overheating on the highway?? I hear of people even with re-stalls having heat issues and i don't want to get less reliable than i already am

OK,saying i do get an auto swap on trade (that's why i'm thinking about it, i can trade for an auto alsoand trade my t-case/rear diff for the auto units as well) What all do i have to do to it to make it handle 500whp and what is the rough cost of that.. I've read PLENTY so please don't say "readup" becyuase I have and it's hard to tell what u need and what 's nice to have and it's hard to tell what's gonna over heat and what won't..

I just don't wanna toss another bones stock trans in and break the gears.. I could have a set shot peened and what not in time for a manual buit i think it's just gonne be a waste of money

what third and fourth gears are guys using other than EVO stuff to hold big power (i've only seen jacks custom gears but the price gets UP TYHERE fast for simple clusters) I think i'd rather just go auto it it's reliable and wil hold the power and not overheat

my other option is to toss the good trans mny friend has in and sell the damn car for a pick up, i'm stuck right now

 

[Bud92gsx]

I thought you already did..You have been asking about it for a while now.

The stock auto should hold about 400 hp..Add a larger tranny cooler and a chipped ecu,shiftbox something like that, it will keep tranny temps down..The soft shifts on an auto actually cause higher tranny temps.So full line pressure, and a larger cooler, done..

Also If you want to get ahold If Tim Zimmer.He can build you a great auto tranny.Kenny's holds 700+.So a few trans upgrades from Tim, and you will be able to hold 500hp very well.

Also if your still very injured the auto would be a hell of alot less work for your legs. A 5 speed is more of a drivers car, but hell my unkle had one leg and could still drive..It was always an auto but, he could drive.

 

[turboglenn]

I thought you already did..You have been asking about it for a while now.

The stock auto should hold about 400 hp..Add a larger tranny cooler and a chipped ecu,shiftbox something like that, it will keep tranny temps down..The soft shifts on an auto actually cause higher tranny temps.So full line pressure, and a larger cooler, done..

Also If you want to get ahold If Tim Zimmer.He can build you a great auto tranny.Kenny's holds 700+.So a few trans upgrades from Tim, and you will be able to hold 500hp very well.

Also if your still very injured the auto would be a hell of alot less work for your legs. A 5 speed is more of a drivers car, but hell my unkle had one leg and could still drive..It was always an auto but, he could drive.

i went AWD 5 speed, I wrote tim a PM and he's been on since and hasnb't answered, i was offering up more than one core and cash for creddit tryign to get a manual trans that can hold my power but seems like unless you wanna spend several thousand many shops don't have the time to mess with you.. i've been trying to call or get ahold of Tim for AGES and there'salways some reasons that "tomorrow is better" and i call and there's no answer, I thought i'd give him some trans business since he was onlline and i'min arush but no dice, even tried buying a cluitch a while back and i guess i just wasn't purchasing enoughn to bother with..he seems like a great guy bvut don't wanna seem to take a minute to talk to me on the phone so i can ask a wuestion or two before i ortder.. Looks like i'll be back TO TRE id i can't get ahold of jack tomorrow, all od this trans building shit is pissin me off honestly. I'm to the point i just want the most reliable trans i can affortd period, or at least find the best 3rd and 4th gears i cna put in one and build it my damn self

 

[Bud92gsx]

You could order Tims hardened gears.And have your place put them in.I would try emailing him.It has been very warm here for the last week or so.I bet he is getting his car ready to go on buttoning up some stuff and doesn't have a chance to answer pm's like that..Last time I pmed him it took a couple days but I was in no hurry like you are.

Last time I checked his site it was under repair(again),but you could still email.He does auto's too but that's not on the site yet either.And email is probably the fastest way to get a resonse,since most of us have email on our phones now.

When I need to contact freelancers or vendors, email is the fastest way..Or text.But I'm not sure Tim lists his cell anywhere.

 

[BrokenTsi]

If I were to have a transmission built for your car, I would just do a fresh rebuild kit, clutches, shift kit, and Kiggly diff saddle and call it a day. You probably won't want to weld the center diff, cause I know you like to daily drive. 4 spider is always an option too.

I have a Jacks transmission. It has evo 3 1st and the rest are DSM gears. I annihilated evo 3 3rd/4th gear doing 3rd gear pulls on the highway. When that transmission blew up, Jacks fixed it for free and also upgraded my DSM 3rd/4th to some type of aftermarket heavy duty 3/4. I can't explain what it is, but he said it was some type of proto-type gear that was designed to shift as good as a double synchro 3/4. For my troubles, he threw it in there for me. My 1-2 shift is 10k and I use NLTS at 9300 in every gear. I also see a lot of street driving. So far, so good.


I was in the same boat. I had bought an auto 1g parts car, but I decided to not do it. Mainly because its a lot of work getting it all set up the way I would want to do it. I want to run 9's on the 5 speed first. And if that blows up....PPG gearbox for me. DSM 3/4 is strong. Well, as strong as it gets for us anyways.

You can "manualize" the auto trans if you want. However, it will just full line pressure shift all the time. Some people are ok with it, some arent. It shifts hard. When i was going to do it, I was going to use a TCU to make the car shift by itself, then shut it off when I wanted to race.

I don't know what Haltek can do for you being auto...the AEM guys have a hard enough time as it is with auto. You may find yourself changing your EMS to something else. But we all know you won't do that, haha.

When it comes to the manual transmission and DSM's....when you break it, replace it with a good used one and keep driving...or learn how to fix it.

 

[Bud92gsx]

The manualized auto with full line pressure..It's not "that" bad..But Going into first is where the headache comes in..Fisrt while moving is almost a no no.So going into first is that bad.

But upshifts are very fast and crisp, downshifts are harder, but kinda like downshifting on a manual when you let the clutch out. But one good thing about auto,is it's NLTS everytime.So getting boost back up is a thing of the past..And lifting to shift, is very much felt in performance..

It's more on preference really..I just don't like using a clutch.

 

[TSimage]

I suppose someone with auto experience should chime in so here is at least what my opinion on it all is.

As far as swapping your car to Auto, there is a lot more work involved than it seems. If you are on a time crunch it makes zero sense as to why you can't slap in a so-so trans and come back and get exactly what you want down the road even if it means doing an easy 5spd tranny swap twice.

If you go auto then you will have to deal with the trans, rearend, mounts, pilot bearing TCase, torque converter, fluids etc.. (Remember it will cost about tripple what a 5spd would) and then if you are shifting it manually you gotta deal with setting up the wiring and if going with a TCU you'll need to splice your harness. Not to mention a rebuild kit that takes more c clipping and picking at than even a 5spd trans tear down. Its actually a good amount of work to do and actually is probably the most tedious mod to do to our cars period although the idea of it seems a lot more simple.

The bone stock trans will handle just about whatever to throw at it and with your setup you will be fine. At the very least double up your flexplates.. Your issues will arise with the inability to spool your turbo on the stock TC meaning you'll meed your stocker restalled and/or nitrous. After that you will have to consider the value of upgrading at least your Front clutches that will hold most of the power to the 5pc kiggly setup. If you want more precise shifting you will need to rework your valve body with a kit and then button it all back up. With all that said and done it will shift firm and hard but it wont hurt the trans and it will actually INCREASE the life of the transmission (faster shifting and more firm and precise is always better with autos, sloppy and soft shifting leads to burned clutches/reduced life)

Most 5spd guys assume the auto swap is the answer to their prayers but there are very few people who are in a position to justify it beyond its consistency and ability to break less. At your power levels any ones level 3/4 5spd should hold it with good driving and a nice clutch. Sourcing everything for an Auto swap and then doing a rebuild on it is not something that will happen over night unfortunately.

The auto works great with all of the tuning methods as well and for most, once you install it you wont need to remove it to fix or replace it. With a 5spd or even a Dog box, its not about if, its more when...

 

[turboglenn]

That's exactly the type of info i was looking for, thank you! One part of the equation many people fporget about or overlook is that i'm disabled, even when i've tried to get physically easy jobs, once their insurance companies look at my medical records i becvome to expensive or risky to emply most times, even with what ill just say is a well above average IQ, and the side activitiesranging from working with the state policeon the CHiP program (helping recopver lost and or abducted children) and mamny other "nice duties/deeds" the chear fact that i'm what i call "a cripple" keeps me from being able to get any decent employment *along with being self employed since 2003 and making enough money that a lot of employers saY "we believe at our pay rate you'll grow to want something more than we can offer you" and i'm just trying to make somemoeny, ANY MONEY to help pay for things

Now that being out og the way AGAIN ( sorry) I'm fine with a "so-so trans" as long as it shifts gtood, thing is because of my money situation right now is probably the best time for me to upgrade waht ever it is that i have bnecause i'm looking at another 12 months on my social security settlement for lost back pay, and only have my skills in metal fab, machining and motorcycle/car repair and tuning to barter with aside from cash and parts i already haveN BUT WHAT IT ALL BOILS DOWN TO IS THAT AS AN ADULT that went frommaking at least 40k a year ot being unable to work, paying what i'm reponsible for, still trying to live and enjoy anything in life is a tough balance... All i'm trying to do is wortk the best dfeal i can formyself on a trans by giving out extras in cores, good trannies, parts on top of my money, but no one will even hear me out once i mention that i have to spend the bottom dollar on their llist

if I knew i wouldn't just shear 3rd gear again i'd be just fine with any old 5 sdpeed as good as the 180K + unit that just exploded in my car (bearings were so loose you heard it rumble in lower gears ) But because of my disability changin a trans for me is about like some one cracking you in the lower back with a baseball bat, or stabbing you in the lumbar with kniotting needles, to the point that the oxycondone barely takes it to a level where i can use my hands for something other than holding themon my back in agony, so ONE tranny swap is muchg bettter than 2 for me

Also with a damaged spine and completely reconstructed left leg losing the clutch would cut out one of the main irritants to my lower back pain.. Spool i'm aware of and have a bottle, solenoids, lines and single nozzle all plumbed and wired into the ECU for activation if needed but i haven't needed it in ages. So I got a band-aid for an staock stall out of the hole

What i don't knoware some of the details about areas yopu touched on like i don't have a TCU, jkust the Haltech ECU which only can do torque converter lockup, so if possible i'd have to run the rest of the trans manually whcih doesn't bother me. Since metal working was my hobby when i owned my business and worked construction i thankfully have a full metal shop/small-mid sized mnachie shop that lets me make things i can't afford and make a bit of a living as well ... What i really am wondering is tyhig slike the clutches and valve body... What kinda HP levels can they take stock without comprimising reliability below an area of say 50k miles from new?

I don't beat my car really, I take it to redline often, i dont' launch hard but maybe 3-4times ayear, and i've never flatshifted it morethan 10 times in my life..although i love the power I apreciuate and care for what i've worked so hard tobuild/obtian..


becuase of all of this i was thinking if a stock or near stock auto can handle the power i'd be fine.. I barely launch and with the cyclone manifold, 9:1 pistons and custom holset i've got gobs oof low end power, and the bottle if i ever needed off the line in a real hurry.. it just seemnsthat for the cost of a stock rebuild which won't hold the power ihave reliably, an auto will run 10's daily and never grind, miss or spit out a gear.... As long as it won't overheat that' s my real worry, but i'mnot knowledgable enough on autos to know what makes themhot the fastest other than loose converters and what ican do besides large coolers to remedy it (maybe lock the converter since 2g's have the locking unit>????)

I would build my own 5 speed if I didn't have to otder aned wait a week on every little part i need from spacersto main internal pieces, I've got a small press i could wleld up a larger frame for and i'm sure i could p[ress one together easil;y and even machine the double syncro clearance on 2nd (but 2g's have OEM 2 cynrto second gear) What i'm really worried about is gears 3&4, and not their shifting but their strength, I mean i could have them shot peened at TRE, but we're talking a lot of time to get them back, detail them and more,, tbu the real factor of why i'd rather have a proi doit like TRE/Jack/shep/Tim is that they know how to setup the preloads for the b4est shifting and other little tricks that although i'm aware of i haven't practiced at all to know one way or another if i'm on target or just hacking parts

WEll, that's LONg as hell but i wish i could portray or was shameless enough to say some of the things of how i've been treated by certain people even though ihave cash as soon as i mention, that i have to spend carefully... There's one person i actually told to call me so i could spend my money and was toldf "tomorrow is better" at least 3 times, so I went else where and i wanted to go with them becauyse they are helpfull on here and seem really cool, guess maybe i'm not cool enough for them

some may flame me and say why beat/make power form something you NEED to rely on and the only answer i have is that if i didn't have something to enjoy in life, there'd be no reason for me to be here putting up with the pain and struggling togive my money away.. I've cheated death a few timesonly to walk away with reminders of it that i will carry for life... and to those who say ?'Buy a back up car" I say "comelife in my shoes for one month and do as well as i do with what i have and tell me you could buy a spare car" There was a time when dropping 7k on a the new TIG, almost 4k on a new TRE stage 2.5 with quafe made from a NEW trans and much like it was nothign but a droipl in the hat, now that same money i could live on for months after being through what i've been through, so I'm gonna enjoy what i can and do the best i can.. i thank everyone for their help, it'smuch apreciated.

If anyone knows a way i can make my third/fourth stronger ,pleasel;et me know or if you know where i can get aset shot peened fast and cheap, that would be cool too,,, All i really want is a basic stock trans that won't blow out from just a WOT pulll, I can udnerstand flat shiftring and pulling 1.4 60' foot times, but that's not what i'md after, just trying to get a trans that's about as good as a new stock unit with the abilityu to hold power

 

[GDNF2ET]

From reading your post, it seems like you would be better off buying a cheap form of transportation in the meantime till you sort out your dsm...
Sent you a PM about a tranny......
Just realized you have a 2g

The easiest way to swap would be;
Keep your rear end and swap the gears
Go full time line pressure, don't bother with the shift kit
Do the Kiggly manualmatic mod
Get a large tranny cooler and run synthetic fluid

You will loose some gas mileage if you go with a non-lockup restalled converter..

 

[TSimage]

From reading your post, it seems like you would be better off buying a cheap form of transportation in the meantime till you sort out your dsm...
Sent you a PM about a tranny......
Just realized you have a 2g

The easiest way to swap would be;
Keep your rear end and swap the gears
Go full time line pressure, don't bother with the shift kit
Do the Kiggly manualmatic mod
Get a large tranny cooler and run synthetic fluid

You will loose some gas mileage if you go with a non-lockup restalled converter..

Changing out just the gears requires more work that swapping the whole rearend and not too many people will sell you just the gear anyways.

Even Kiggly recommends the VB as it does a lot to clean up the sloppiness of our shifting where as raising the line pressure just makes it shift harder.

Either way the VB can be done later, the front clutch however would require the trans to be removed so I'd make up my mind prior to installation. Either way it goes it sounds like he'll be sitting around waiting for parts whether its new gears for the 5spd or clutches for the auto.

If you are fortunate enough to get an auto in perfect condition then it should hold some decent power on its own and will be a lot more reliable and quite a bit more friendly to drive without the third pedal.

Sounds like a crappy situation but there doesn't seem to be any easy answer for ya. Sorry for your hard ship.

 

[crash89]

Im not sure if 1g auto transmissions are different than 2gs, but Mr Peepers went auto in his 500+ holset DD Hes running a stock trans and converter.. Still pulls high 10s on street tires and cruises the interstate with it to all sorts of meets.. Has no issues as far as I know of.. I think he might have the gears cryo treaded?

 

[TSimage]

That's far from stock if they are cryo'd .. Thats 10Xs more work than anything else mentioned haha. As far as strengthening gears tho, most would recommend shot peening but that is at 8s levels that its even thought of really.

 

[crash89]

Well regardless if the gears are treated hes still on a stock converter.. Im not 100% certain his are or not. I know our buddy Kenny sent his auto gears to Tim last fall to have it done and Matt sent his too for something. So, Im assuming thats what it is..

 

[Archer Fabrications]

i just read the title.. and i say NO GLEN NO! yes you might brake less stuff... but manuals are for MEN!

Edit: I'm in the same boat, blew my 3rd 4th slider. Going Shep stage 3.. Keepin it manual. evo3 1st double synchro 1-4th gears 4 spyder center and all the other regular stage 3 goodies. Shep says its good for 4-600hp

 

[turboglenn]

Well, i heard from Tim Zimmer and i think i'm gonna have something worked out (i sure hope) but AS i said in y post a second car is out of the question, I have a motorcycle and that's about it, when you're disabled and can't work a job even when you want to,it's hard, everythign, life, money allof it... read above and you'll see why i can't get hired..

anyway i work for myself taking what business i getfrom criagslist, the forums and from word of mouth. but it barely keeps up, I"m just trying to file bankruptcy and get on social security now becase my docotrs said to give up becaus ei'm not gonna makethe recovery we'd hoped for (talk about getting sh1tty news, try hearing that from your doc) but anyway.. funds don't allow a second car, they barelty allow me to keep the stuf fi alreaedy have thats paid off...

fixing this car is gonna wipe me out but i gotta have it, can't get out of it what i have in it and enjoy it still and like going fast.. that's why i will make pulls but i don't race it, don't launch it, don't flat shift it, becaus ei have tomake it last.

ANyway..like i said, I might have somethign worked out trading my ball bearing turbo for a pair of trannies one iwth bearing slop and one with a blown center diff.. between those and my current trans and hopefully minimal cash i can maybe get a good decent trans with a third and fourth gear that have maybe at least been shot peened and detailed

the auto deal is flaking, i tell the guy i wanna check it out and he's all the sudden "still in the process of buyiung the car for a shell" when this weekend it sounded like he was ready to trade me parts to go manual

i'd love ot stay manual, but it's gonna come to what's cheapest

the haltech will control the converter but not the shifting, and although the AEM is nice, if you ever tune a haltech and AEM in the same month even you'll know which one you don't wanna touch again

 

[Archer Fabrications]

Well, i heard from Tim Zimmer and i think i'm gonna have something worked out (i sure hope) but AS i said in y post a second car is out of the question, I have a motorcycle and that's about it, when you're disabled and can't work a job even when you want to,it's hard, everythign, life, money allof it... read above and you'll see why i can't get hired..

anyway i work for myself taking what business i getfrom criagslist, the forums and from word of mouth. but it barely keeps up, I"m just trying to file bankruptcy and get on social security now becase my docotrs said to give up becaus ei'm not gonna makethe recovery we'd hoped for (talk about getting sh1tty news, try hearing that from your doc) but anyway.. funds don't allow a second car, they barelty allow me to keep the stuf fi alreaedy have thats paid off...

fixing this car is gonna wipe me out but i gotta have it, can't get out of it what i have in it and enjoy it still and like going fast.. that's why i will make pulls but i don't race it, don't launch it, don't flat shift it, becaus ei have tomake it last.

ANyway..like i said, I might have somethign worked out trading my ball bearing turbo for a pair of trannies one iwth bearing slop and one with a blown center diff.. between those and my current trans and hopefully minimal cash i can maybe get a good decent trans with a third and fourth gear that have maybe at least been shot peened and detailed

the auto deal is flaking, i tell the guy i wanna check it out and he's all the sudden "still in the process of buyiung the car for a shell" when this weekend it sounded like he was ready to trade me parts to go manual

i'd love ot stay manual, but it's gonna come to what's cheapest

the haltech will control the converter but not the shifting, and although the AEM is nice, if you ever tune a haltech and AEM in the same month even you'll know which one you don't wanna touch again

ive heard AEM is a bi***... ill try and see if i can send some business your way, i think im going to tackle my oil pan fitting myself, and i got the BEP housing for now also, but i might still need a custom machined FP30 style housing from ya. i appreciate all your help, sucks your going through a hard time.

 

[El Cuervo]

Hey Glenn what's up? Wow! you blew your transmission!?? That's intense! Sorry to hear that man. But look at it in the bright side. At least you have a car thats build powerful enough to destroy trannies easily!!
Don't give up man!

 

[turboglenn]

Hey Glenn what's up? Wow! you blew your transmission!?? That's intense! Sorry to hear that man. But look at it in the bright side. At least you have a car thats build powerful enough to destroy trannies easily!!
Don't give up man!

thanks man, and yea it's cool until you can't afford tio replace the trannies anymore, hel back wwhen i worked 60+ hour weeks makign 40+ K a year i didn't care, i only cared how fast icould get another one in, i've really learned to "pinch pennies"these last few years though

 

[importracr317]

my docotrs said to give up becaus ei'm not gonna makethe recovery we'd hoped for (talk about getting sh1tty news, try hearing that from your doc)

Not on topic, but what happened Glenn? Don't tell me you crashed one for your 50's (BTW, I bought a 12-bar off you a couple years back...you probably don't remember, but I was going to use one of your Honda bars on a TTR-50...it worked BTW)....

 

[turboglenn]

Not on topic, but what happened Glenn? Don't tell me you crashed one for your 50's (BTW, I bought a 12-bar off you a couple years back...you probably don't remember, but I was going to use one of your Honda bars on a TTR-50...it worked BTW)....

Close, Wrecked an F3 doin 155, and damaged my spine and the handlebar wenbt i the front of my left thigh and came out the back, busting up bone and tearing the femoral arterie. Then after i was decently recoverded from that i was doing some practice jumps for a fiddy film that X-factor was doing (attck of the fiddies 2 - never released) i jumped and came down on my left leg after it came off the peg and folded my leg backwards at the knee, and also re-compressed/injured some of the previousely injured parts of my spine (S1, S2, S3 junctions and as well as furthering the damage to the L4 to L5 junction)

THe left knee has been through surgery after surgery, so far i've refused spinal fusions but now i'm up for anything as i just can't take it anymore, i'd rather rolll the dice with the operation at this point

I need this money to come througnb on this 50trim so i can buy this local ttrans i found with a bad 2nd gear syncro, then i figure i'll just swap in a new2nd gear and syncro or get a set of clusters.

 

[Awdspyderman]

Im really sorry to hear about your situation. I can only sympathize with you on the injuries you have and it really sucks that you can't work either. I hate seeing another good person down on hard times BUT DON"T GIVE UP! Keep on fighting man, I know you need your DSM to get from point A to point B so i hope you can resolve your tranny issue. GOOD LUCK AND GOD BLESS

 

[turboglenn]

Im really sorry to hear about your situation. I can only sympathize with you on the injuries you have and it really sucks that you can't work either. I hate seeing another good person down on hard times BUT DON"T GIVE UP! Keep on fighting man, I know you need your DSM to get from point A to point B so i hope you can resolve your tranny issue. GOOD LUCK AND GOD BLESS

Thanks man, it's not easy i'll say that.. I hate not working almost as much as i hate being broke. IT's a tough mental battle dealing with daily physical pain, day after day you decide what you will and won't get done based on the amount of pain you're in, how much more that activity will cause and how much if any pain medication you have.. i hate it, i'll leave it at that

ANyway, pulled another supposedly good trans apart tonight ( i was sick all morning till about 1PM) and when i got it apart the CD washer had exploded and there was a half a tooth gone from the CD's outter ring, a tooth missin on the intermediate shaft that drove the CD, 2 teeth missin on the pinion for the front diff and shavings ground up fine as dust caked in from aparently years of driving with those broken teeth laying/bouncing around in there

I'm gladthe main trans i'm looking at out of a 98 has a bad syncro so i'll have to take it apart, and hopefully it's in better shape than the 95 i saew tonight, but i'm to where i don't think i wanna buy one wihtout pulling the cases at this point...had i paid for the one i took apart today i would have been screwed, there was nothing good left in it but the front diff, cases and iunput shaft... it ran fine supposedly on a stock car but if i'd installed that and put power to it i would have shredded it in a heartbeat. (i was mainly taking it as a parts trans to repair the 98 i'm supposed to get or should hav ealready had but am waiting on money i'mbeing BS"ed around on.)

If manual trannies keep looking like this i might have to go auto, don't know what i'll do to pay for all i need being that i have to change T-case, rear diff and more..

PLus i'd have to wire a TCU up unless i wanted full pressure shifts all the time and i'd rather not although i do have one pimp ass paddle shifter setup built for the carand i've just been waiting on a chance to be the first to unveil it before i show anyone and start seeing it everywhere before i get to try it out fullly

 

[importracr317]

Close, Wrecked an F3 doin 155, and damaged my spine and the handlebar wenbt i the front of my left thigh and came out the back, busting up bone and tearing the femoral arterie.

Ouch. Tankslapper? So, I have to ask...

Then after i was decently recoverded from that i was doing some practice jumps for a fiddy film that X-factor was doing (attck of the fiddies 2 - never released) i jumped and came down on my left leg after it came off the peg and folded my leg backwards at the knee, and also re-compressed/injured some of the previousely injured parts of my spine (S1, S2, S3 junctions and as well as furthering the damage to the L4 to L5 junction)

Why?... I mean, I'm all for an adrenaline rush, but geez man. Time to take it easy. Your body can't keep taking all this abuse. Gotta' slow down brother.

 

[ed1380]

Is that local trans a 1g or 2g? Id be trying to get a 1g trans

here's what tim has said about it in the past

The weakest parts in your 95-99 transmission (torque capacity wise) are the 3rd/4th hub and slider assembly and the stock center differential.

The 3rd/4th hub and slider assembly likes to either implode the hub or explode the slider after ~400TQ. It is only a matter of time if you do any sort of load in 3rd or 4th with this kind of torque. The fix to this is to use the late 91-early 92 3rd/4th gearset conversion which utilizes a late 91-early 92 3rd gear, 4th gear, hub and slider/keys/springs, shift fork and shift rail/rail end. You can always swap out the following parts for Evo 1/2/3 parts: 3rd gear, 4th gear, 3/4 shift fork, and 3/4 shift rail/rail end.

The Evo 1/2 OEM transmissions utilized single synchro versions of the Evo 3 3rd/4th gears that had the same gear ratio. The Evo 1/2/3 had a mixture of shift forks utilized from the factory including solid steel ones without shift pads, with plastic shift pads of varying sizes. The best ones were the Evo 1 solid steel shift forks, but they are non-existent unless you find an Evo 1 used transmission. The 1990-early 1992 transmissions used an aluminum version of this 3rd/4th shift fork design for wear life, at the cost of breaking under very hard shifting. The Evo 1/2 also used forged shift rail ends on all 1/2, 3/4 and 5/Rev shift rails and had to be used as a matched set with the Evo 1/2/3 shift selector or you needed to clearance the shift selector and rail ends to work properly. The Evo 1/2/3 shift rail ends worked best with late 1991-1999 shift selectors and still sometimes require a bit of clearance work to function properly. The late 1991-early 1992 3rd/4th shift rail had a heat-treated rail end that was stronger in design than the 1990-mid 1991 but is not interchangable unless you do a shift selector conversion and complete shift rail conversion with other parts involved. The late 1991-early 1992 and Evo 1/2/3 3rd/4th shift rail can be used in late 1991-1999 transmissions when used with a matching gearset from an Evo 1/2/3 or late 1991-early 1992 DSM.

The 1990-early 1992 DSM and Evo 1/2 utilize the same diameter 3rd/4th synchros and hub/slider assembly whereas the mid 1992-1999 used a larger diameter synchro with a substantially thinner and inherently weaker design hub and slider assembly. The Evo 3 used a very thick slider and the same hub as the Evo 1/2 and early DSM stuff and had a bit more clearance for oiling to the 4th gear synchro as the Evo 3 double synchro 3rd/4th assembly needed a bit more space to get proper oiling. You can use an Evo 3 3rd/4th double synchro gearset with a late 1991-early 1992 3rd/4th hub and slider but you will need to have the 4th gear and 3rd/4th hub machined for additional clearance and oiling, otherwise you will end up with a torched 4th gear synchro almost immediately due to lack of oiling.

The Evo 1/2/3 3rd/4th gears are "stronger" than the late 1991-early 1992 DSM gears only on the fact that they have a lower tooth count and more meat on the root radius of the gear teeth. The gear tooth angle is still the same as the late 1991-early 1992 DSM gears.

The center differential is the other weak link in all DSM's and Evo 1/2/3 at around the same power levels as the 3rd/4th hub and slider before the two spider gears either explode or the cross-shaft shatters. Common wear items that should be replaced are the spider gear shims, the lower pinion gear brass shim and the upper pinion gear oiling washer. The upper pinion gear oiling washer has a tendency of wearing out and then microwelding itself to the upper pinion gear and center diff cover causing catastrophic failure to the differential or at least the upper pinion gear and center diff cover. If the wear is excessive it will also place the spider gears and lower pinion gears into risk of failure from excessive gear lash, resulting in spider gear washer failure (and case damage) or splitting the lower pinion gear brass oiling shim. If the pinion gearset gets damaged in any way, you need to replace the entire pinion gearset as they are not available as separate pieces from Mitsubishi. I would recommend having the center differential serviced and upgraded to a minimum of a Torrington bearing upgrade for the upper pinion gear by having the center diff cover machined for the additional clearance required to run a Torrington bearing and oiling shim, and replace the spider gear washers and lower pinion gear brass oiling shim as a longevity upgrade. The 2-spider diff can only hold so much power and abuse before it fails, so upgrading to a 4-spider center diff is a must if you want to keep streetability while having increased torque capacity. Most vendors just machine down the stock crappy cross-shaft to incorporate 4 spider gears while TRE and myself have designs that utilize a better material custom machined 4-spider cross shaft that will be able to capacitate substantially more power without failure. To do the modification for a 4-spider center differential upgrade, you will need an additional pinion gearset (two more spider gears required), a 4-spider cross-shaft and a machined center differential housing to fit the 4 spider gears. The benefit to a 4-spider center differential is the ability to not sacrifice streetability while increasing torque capacity without failure. The benefit of a welded center differential is taking the spider gears and stock cross-shaft out of the equation and having a beefy "locked" differential at the sacrifice of streetability as the welded differential will bind the front/rear wheels during turning or unequal wheel speed causing substantially more wear on your other drivetrain parts.

A blown or damaged center diff and a welded center diff will put alot more wear on the output shaft splines and transfer case input sleeve splines causing premature failure of the parts. A blown or damaged center diff will also burn out your viscous coupler.

Other common wear items that should be replaced are the input shaft and intermediate shaft tapered roller bearings, 1/2 and 3/4 shift forks, 1/2 and 3/4 hub and slider assemblies, and synchros. 1st and 2nd gears also get worn out over time the most as they are the most-used gears for street cars. The dog engagement teeth for the synchros to engage with the associated slider will cause gear popout or grinding while engaging the gear; it is not just as simple as a worn synchro replacement if the gear is grinding in almost every circumstance. Gear popout is common with worn out gear dog engagement teeth or worn out slider engagement teeth. Gear grinding at any rpm is normally a worn out hub and slider or a severely worn synchro, while gear grinding at higher rpm is normally a worn out synchro with the potential for a worn out hub and slider from continuous grinding gear engagement.

Shifting issues can either be from worn out shift forks, worn out hub/sliders, worn out gear dog engagement teeth, worn out hub/slider keys, broken or popped out hub/slider springs, or excessive end play on the input and/or intermediate shafts.

With that said, it is very important to replace the input shaft and intermediate shaft tapered roller bearings on both ends of the shafts and then properly preloading the two shafts to tighter-than-OEM-spec tolerances. Each builder uses their own specs based upon power levels that the transmission will see. By increasing the preload on the input shaft you can also have the transmission slow down itself a bit to aid in high rpm shifting taking some of the load off the clutch and synchros to shift into gear as the input shaft will use friction to slow itself down a bit. By increasing the preload on the intermediate shaft you can allow for less deflection of the intermediate shaft under load or under increased temperatures which would cause case expansion resulting in the reduction of preload under increased temperature.

If you intend on doing alot of continuous load use in 3rd or 4th, it is imperative that you either service your transmission regularly, replace the 3rd/4th gearset/fork/rail for the heavy duty late 1991-early 1992 or Evo 1/2/3 parts along with tossing the aluminum shift fork as the expansion of aluminum will be greater than the steel parts under increased temperature resulting in substantially increasing the friction and potential binding of the 3rd/4th shift fork on the engagement surface of the 3rd/4th slider. This will result in permanent shifting issues and the potential for failure of the hub/slider or shift fork. If you are making ALOT of power or doing continuous load even with the heavier-duty 3rd/4th stuff, it would be wise to have an external transmission cooler fabricated up and have the return line spray onto the 3rd/4th hub and slider and 4th gear assembly to aide in cooling the parts down and maintaining lubrication to high-stress parts.



So....with that said, you can either take your chances with a stock transmission, or you can have it upgraded to suit your needs while having it gone through and inspected so you can replace the worn out parts before there is a failure that can easily cost alot more money than a rebuild.

Personally, if I was building it, I would recommend a stage 3 transmission that uses a custom chromoly steel 4-spider cross-shaft center differential, and a heavy-duty 3rd/4th gearset. If you are intending on shifting normal and not trying to put your hand through the stereo on 3rd gear shifts, go with the HD aluminum shift fork and have the 3rd/4th shift rail machined to incorporate a second roll pin (double-pinned 3rd/4th fork). If you don't know how to shift gently, then I would recommend getting an Evo 3 steel shift fork AND learning how to shift softer -- your transmission will last longer.

Along with all these things, don't forget to replace the clutch fork, clutch fork pivot ball, throwout bearing and have a properly functioning/bled/adjusted clutch hydraulic system to ensure that the clutch is properly disengaging, otherwise you will just put more wear on your transmission resulting in premature failure of more parts.


I hope that this long-winded tech response will give you more background into the workings of the AWD transmission so you make an informed decision in your purchase of an upgraded transmission. Like I said, you are playing with fire using a stock used transmission if it is not up to spec; especially if the bearings are worn on the input and intermediate shaft or the oiling shims in the center differential. It will only be a matter of when it fails, not if it fails.

I found a 1g AWD trans at a scrap yard for $25 that broke the pin on the 3/4fork. Otherwise it looked like it just had a rebuild. I didn't want to mess with taking the gears off, so I just swapped the input and intermediate shafts (you also have to swap the center diff for it to mesh right with the intermediate gear shaft) and shift fork. So I lost my double syncro 2nd (it was done for anyways) and got a stronger 3rd for cheap.