NO clutch pressure and have replaced EVERYTHING

[dsmdeliveryboy]

So one day I was driving and I'm sitting at the stop light and the light is about to turn green so I push my clutch in and put it in gear and the next thing I know the car stalls and I lose ALL pressure. So I replaced my clutch slave and master cylinders, bled them(properly)and still nothing. So I thought maybe my PP collapsed or TOB went bad, so I drop my trans and replace my clutch PP and TOB and pivot ball(the fork is a new jacks racing clutch fork)and I get the car all back together and STILL no pressure. So I replaced my clutch line with a full ss clutch line to ensure I wasn't getting leaks and put in another new OEM slave and wouldn't you know...nothing. So, after doing some research I found out a common problem on a 1G is the clutch pedal assembly goes bad, so I pulled my assembly and got a assembly from shep trans and got it installed and bled the clutch etc and STILL NOTHING. I have NO idea what it could be, it gets SOME pressure and wants to go into gear a little but I am still not getting full pressure and I've tried adjusting the master rod, bench bleeding the master, vacuum bleeding, bleeding how jacks trans says to online and I've just hit a dead end.. I have NO idea what else it could be..

 

[bryanwheat]

Have you adjusted the rod on the master cylinder?

 

[dsmdeliveryboy]

Yes, I mentioned in the post I did....

 

[StarFawkes]

If you don't have pressure then that makes me think the slave isn't pushing the TOB into the PP. Have you looked into shimming your pivot ball? I had to add 2 washers to the pivot ball and add in a longer slave rod for mine to work.

 

[My1GLaser]

Damn you really did replace almost everything! Have you measured how much the slave moves when you push the clutch in? That will tell you if you have a hydraulic issue to the slave or a mechanical issue at the fork, ball, PP area.

 

[rlacasse1]

Damn you really did replace almost everything! Have you measured how much the slave moves when you push the clutch in? That will tell you if you have a hydraulic issue to the slave or a mechanical issue at the fork, ball, PP area.

This. Find out how far the slave is extending.

 

[dsmdeliveryboy]

I'm pretty sure I'm gonna extend my slave, I only shimmed the pivotball with one spacer, I wish I would have used two... The clutch does disengage slightly, I'm betting I needa extend my slave though.

And yes I really replaced everything, in the order I listed.. Lol

 

[92AWDHX40]

When i got my trans from tre i had to adjust the push rod, great shifting ever since.

 

[dsmdeliveryboy]

When i got my trans from tre i had to adjust the push rod, great shifting ever since.

Like I said, THE ROD HAS BEEN ADJUSTED. I know how to adjust the rod properly.
Seriously people read the whole damn thread, this is ridiculous

 

[My1GLaser]

I'm pretty sure I'm gonna extend my slave, I only shimmed the pivotball with one spacer, I wish I would have used two... The clutch does disengage slightly, I'm betting I needa extend my slave though.

The extended slave rod will still move the same amount as the regular one. The master cylinder displaces a certain volume of fluid based on the bore and stroke. In turn the slave moves a certain stroke based on its bore to accept the volume of brake fluid the master has displaced. Unless the stock rod is actually loose when the slave is fully retracted it probably won't help.

If you want to effectively change what is happening at the clutch fork, then change to a slave with a smaller bore. The stroke will have to increase to match the fluid displacement of the master. I am running a '92 3000GT VR4 slave which has a smaller bore. 3/4" instead of 13/16" IIRC. I was only getting like 10-11mm of slave movement and I get like 14-15mm or something now.

I had a thread a couple years ago to solve my clutch disengagement issue. Haven't had a problem since...

 

[dsmdeliveryboy]

Is it a direct bolt up? I've replaced my slave twice though..

 

[My1GLaser]

You have to put it on the other side of the "ears" on the tranny where the slave bolts. I think I had to drill the mounting holes out 1/16" larger. That was it.

I think I found there was another option after I did that though. Like maybe a FWD slave or a 2G one? I can't remember, but just take a tape measure up to the counter at the parts store and measure the piston and get one smaller than what you have now.

Do you know how much your slave is moving? If it is moving at least 14mm then there is a different problem. Have someone push the clutch in and measure how much the rod moves. You're just blindly shooting in the dark without that info...

 

[dsmdeliveryboy]

You have to put it on the other side of the "ears" on the tranny where the slave bolts. I think I had to drill the mounting holes out 1/16" larger. That was it.

I think I found there was another option after I did that though. Like maybe a FWD slave or a 2G one? I can't remember, but just take a tape measure up to the counter at the parts store and measure the piston and get one smaller than what you have now.

Do you know how much your slave is moving? If it is moving at least 14mm then there is a different problem. Have someone push the clutch in and measure how much the rod moves. You're just blindly shooting in the dark without that info...

The thing is it seems like it moves atleast 14mm, I haven't measured yet because I work a lot but if it moving what else could it be??

 

[toppertopper]

Can you get it into gear at least ? Have you jacked the car up (all 4 tires off the ground) , do the tires spin while not in gear ?
I went threw 3 masters and 2 slaves a clutch,tob (also used jacks rod adjustments) Nothing ..I finally put the rod all the way out only a couple threads in , got pressure back and works awesome shifting nice and smooth

 

[dsmdeliveryboy]

Can you get it into gear at least ? Have you jacked the car up (all 4 tires off the ground) , do the tires spin while not in gear ?
I went threw 3 masters and 2 slaves a clutch,tob (also used jacks rod adjustments) Nothing ..I finally put the rod all the way out only a couple threads in , got pressure back and works awesome shifting nice and smooth

No I cannot get it into gear at all, even with it on jackstands. It will start to lurch forward a tiny bit when I go to put it into gear but nothing. And the clutch pressure is NOWHERE close to what it should be..

I also did the same too, following all of the jacks tutorials and still couldn't get anything.. I've never been so stumped on my car and its really discouraging because if I can't figure it out soon I'm gonna have to sell it and I have way too much time, money, blood, sweat, and tears into this damn thing..

 

[toppertopper]

Adjust the rod all the way out (only leaving it in a couple threads) then go from there ...As soon as i did that it worked no more lunging forward and i could get it into gear , shifts smooth now

 

[billyt]

how can you adjust the master and slave? I'm going to be bleeding the line too and would like to know just in case I run into something...Thanks

 

[My1GLaser]

If you are getting enough travel then;

Where does your clutch fork sit in the window? http://www.roadraceengineering.com/eclipsetech/clutch/armcentered.jpg You might have needed 2 washers under the pivot ball.

Is the rod loose between the slave and fork? The stock one can flatten out and you can lose a couple mm travel from "slack" in the system. You don't have to buy an extended rod. You can get a grade 8 bolt and cut it to length and round the edges with a grinder. That's what I did cause my stock one had flattened a bit, and even added a couple mm for the heck of it.

What FW do you have? Do you know what the step height is?

The bolts from the tranny to block could be loose/stripped and the tranny can actually push away from the block when you push the clutch.

You pretty much took care of everything else...

 

[dsmdeliveryboy]

The rod is new, the clutch looks just like it does in the pic. I've been super busy with work so I haven't had time to tinker with it but I'm probably gonna try adjusting the rod all the way out and see what happens. I have a brand new XACT flywheel, the step height is .612 I had it machined to spec. When someone pushes the pedal its like you can hear the fluid but no air comes out of the lines at all.

My buddy actually had to weld a nut to the part where the rod for the master screws in to get more travel and extended his slave rod by welding a nut to it. The only thing is he is busy a lot and I have no welding skills except for oxy/acetylene and that would be WAY to difficult to do that way

 

[toppertopper]

The rod is new, the clutch looks just like it does in the pic. I've been super busy with work so I haven't had time to tinker with it but I'm probably gonna try adjusting the rod all the way out and see what happens. I have a brand new XACT flywheel, the step height is .612 I had it machined to spec. When someone pushes the pedal its like you can hear the fluid but no air comes out of the lines at all.

someone pushes the pedal and no air comes out ,,,... Are you bleeding it right ...Its pump pump pump the clutch pedal have them hold the clutch to the floor , open the bleeder on the slave , let it flow out , tighten then repeat !

 

[dsmdeliveryboy]

someone pushes the pedal and no air comes out ,,,... Are you bleeding it right ...Its pump pump pump the clutch pedal have them hold the clutch to the floor , open the bleeder on the slave , let it flow out , tighten then repeat !

I know how to bleed a clutch , I'm saying its been bled numerous times and no more air is coming out of the system. Sometimes the fluid that does comes out will look a little milky though, I don't know if that has anything to do with anything or if thats just the pressure etc.

 

[Lou98GSX]

just for the hell of it check and make sure the crank isn't moving a lot . if it is that might be your problem

 

[dsmdeliveryboy]

just for the hell of it check and make sure the crank isn't moving a lot . if it is that might be your problem

I've checked the crank and harmonic balancer

 

[TrevorS]

Sometimes the fluid that does comes out will look a little milky though, I don't know if that has anything to do with anything or if thats just the pressure etc.

Milky is water, it means you need to flush the clutch hydraulics to fully clean out the system, and then bleed it. Milky is very much bad news !

 

[CCK90tsi]

I dont know if this is what you meant by adjusting the master rod, but i was having similar issues with my car and i had to adjust the rod on the master very loose to get it to bleed properly and once i had pressure then adjusted it back out to tight on the pedal, I read your post and wasnt sure if you had done this or not, something to give a try... i had replaced everything too and could not get pressurte untill i did this, backed off the lock nut and loosened the rod it alowed the master to bleed properly