The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Getting to the point where im about to part it out or sell it!

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

FirstDSMTimer

10+ Year Contributor
75
0
Jun 26, 2011
Baltimore, Maryland
I know i have post numerous times about my issues and other questions and it seems like im pretty much screwed. So here is my story i bought the car with a six bolt swap with hks 272 cams and a slow boy racing head the car didnt idle right to start due to a bad iac and a ton of boost leaks so the first thing i did was fixed all that bought a new iac and tps because it came with a nt throttle body and a 1g tps and its a 2g. Then i added a few other mods like a e3 16g, Siemens delka 750cc injectors, aeromotive fpr, walbro 255 rewired, aem ugeo, dsmlink v3 lite, aem true boost.

Then i went a did mechanical tuning i set the tps to .63v threw dsmlink and set the throttle stopper so it read anything other then one like the video on youtube Tuning 101. Then i tried to set the fpr while the car was running like in the video tuning 102 and i cant get the fuel pressure below 50psi running with the vac line off idk if it the fpr or the fuel pump anyways so i figured it wouldnt matter to much so i moved on to setting the deadtime and global as someone posted on the site -38 +315. Now i cant drive the car because its not tagged but it will read on the wideband lean that it wont have a reading then out of no where it will surge to 2000 rpms and read like 12.2 on the wideband this is all with out even being on the gas.


now i posted a log but im not sure how to add my air/fuel to dsmlink and it seems like idk what else to add for anyone to help me. I can post another log tomorrow if you guys could help. also what should be normal vac levels because the more i mess with it to idle lower it reads alot lower like below 10.

pretty much i have been working on this car for over a year and it seem like i can't get anything to go right you guys are ###### my LAST HOPE to save this dsm.
 
don't part it out whatever you do bro! you'll be upset about it later!
 
don't part it out whatever you do bro! you'll be upset about it later!
i agree i would ###### regret it but man this car can be a pain after tons of money and tons of hours working.

I just dont understand why it wont go any lower then it is i mean maybe my gauge is messing up or something im gone to remove it and go form their reseal everything
 
Last edited:
update. I fixed the afpr the return line was kinked so it was holding to much pressure. Now the question is the fuel pressure gauge i noticed some gas in the gauge does that mean im not getting a good reading because i set the fuel pressure to 43.5 for a 2g now since i have a 6 bolt swap does it need to be set to 38psi? Also when i shut the car down the gauge still reads 20psi is that normal also? I had the car kind of runing right but my wideband was reading lean at idle but my friend told me all that mattered was that my wideband reading while driving is that true? sorry for all the questions but im so close to being finished to be able to take my car get it back on the road and get it tuned.
 
The residual pressure in the fuel line is good. If it bleeds of quickly, leakey inj. could be found. The static fuel pressure should match the tune you indicated in the setup of the link. Check your settings and the tune will fall in.
 
Id be willing to bet theres more history in the motor you havent found out yet. Dont let the engine trouble shy you away from the whole car.
 
Me too. I idle at about 16:1. I believe that is fairly normal. The engine doesn't need to be stoich when it isn't under any load, so the idle is lean to help conserve fuel and prevent hesitation.

...and there are quite a few of us who totally know how you feel. I have basically rebuilt my car.... All of it... They are Mitsubitchy, but they are like heroin when they are working right, and you work for the boost so the boost will work for you.

Honestly, the rev issue sounds like......... And I hate to say it........... Air leaking in (ie the boost leaky stuff). Check the vac lines again. Brake booster line... Etc.
 
--- as in it locks on you? Mine used to do that if so then I might be to far back or its going into wideband lock up..cause I know those gauges are sensitive does it have a good ground?
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top