2.4l G4CS Engine build video in a 1999 Eclipse GSX

[Atuca]

I'm sure there are a hundred other DSM engine build videos but here's my take at it with a 2.4l G4CS (6 bolt) into a 2g. Its not really a walk through of any type, but a general overview of how the process went for me. This was my first engine build This is my full "third season" video for the GSseX build. I am really hoping to get to the track this year.. but I've been saying that years now.. gotta keep the eyes on the prize..

I'd update my build thread with the video but I am going to have to sit and take some time migrating it to the new blog format.

Til then, and even if so, this should be easier for folks to search in its own thread:

1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX - GSseX Season 3 - YouTube

Cheers!

 

[huafist]

I didn't see you set the thrust bearing during the crank install?

 

[Atuca]

You know I never heard about that and no one brought up during my engine build blog, and I didn't see anything in the FSM about it. I have about 500 or so miles on the engine now, should I be dropping my oil pan to do this? I had the bottom end line honed with girdle, main caps, and ARP bolts installed at the machine shop, and he didn't mention it either.

But I definitely do not want crank walk, especially on a 6 bolt. I'll see what other information I can find on this. Thanks for the heads up.

 

[huafist]

You know I never heard about that and no one brought up during my engine build blog, and I didn't see anything in the FSM about it. I have about 500 or so miles on the engine now, should I be dropping my oil pan to do this? I had the bottom end line honed with girdle, main caps, and ARP bolts installed at the machine shop, and he didn't mention it either.

But I definitely do not want crank walk, especially on a 6 bolt. I'll see what other information I can find on this. Thanks for the heads up.

Did you check crank endplay during the build? If you did and it was in spec, I wouldn't worry too much about it. If you didn't, I'd be checking it now and making sure it's right. If it's too tight, you've probably already done some thrust bearing damage. Also, I didn't see you lube the ARP nuts when you installed and torqued them down, but that may have just been missed by the camera. Be sure to retorque after a few heat cycles, as well.

With adjustable cam gears, did you degree the camshafts?

 

[Atuca]

I checked with plastic gauge for clearance and everything was in spec. I retorqued the head bolts after a few heat cycles, but didn't think I needed to recheck the main studs, I suppose when I check for end play I can retorque them. I planned on welding an AN fitting on my oil pan for the oil return instead of stock leaky OEM gasket oil return anyways, so I will be down in there.

Nuts did have lube on them. Its more evident on the Head studs how many times I screwed them in and out, lubing them, putting them back in, we did it several times to make sure we got accurate torque across all the head studs.

I just didn't film it on the main studs because the filming you saw was actually the second time I had assembled the bottom end. Another DSMer found I had put lube UNDER the bearing (between the bearing and block) and I had to disassemble to correct that and make sure I only lubed between the bearing and the crank. Because of that, the nuts were already pre lubed.

Loving this feedback though, anything else you catch?

 

[PieEyedPiper]

Cool vid! Hopefully you'll be laying down times soon!

 

[yukiz]

Great Job man, Im currently making videos to,

Different engine thoo, Its a 7 Bolt 4g63....

Not gonna be crazy, just stock....

 

[Atuca]

And as for degreeing cams, I degreed them to 2.0 cam gears on a 2.4 engine (half a tooth forward on both intake and exhaust for the 2.4 on 2.0 cam gears), but it still needs to be degreed to correct engine geomtery. When I attempted to do with the "washers in a stock lifter to make it solid" meathod, it wasn't working and giving me varying results. After three attempts at trying to get 0.000 lift, (and only having a week to finish the build) I just went back to the stock setting for the 2.4 degree and will have to do it again when I buy some solid lifters.

Long story short, I lost my job.. had a garage full of parts but had to move. So I threw together all the parts and went a little faster then I would have wanted, but I was still safe in getting done in what needed to be. 2 years later I have a job again and its been a few months so I'm coming out of retirement.

 

[huafist]

I checked with plastic gauge for clearance and everything was in spec. I retorqued the head bolts after a few heat cycles, but didn't think I needed to recheck the main studs, I suppose when I check for end play I can retorque them. I planned on welding an AN fitting on my oil pan for the oil return instead of stock leaky OEM gasket oil return anyways, so I will be down in there.

Nuts did have lube on them. Its more evident on the Head studs how many times I screwed them in and out, lubing them, putting them back in, we did it several times to make sure we got accurate torque across all the head studs.

I just didn't film it on the main studs because the filming you saw was actually the second time I had assembled the bottom end. Another DSMer found I had put lube UNDER the bearing (between the bearing and block) and I had to disassemble to correct that and make sure I only lubed between the bearing and the crank. Because of that, the nuts were already pre lubed.

Loving this feedback though, anything else you catch?

You can't check crankshaft endplay with plastigauge ; there are only two methods: feeler gauge and dial indicator. I prefer dial indicator, as I feel it's more accurate.

Basically, what you do is put the dial indicator on the pulley end of the engine, and set the tip onto the snout of the crank. Push the crank all the way back to the transmission side as possible (if the pan is off, use a screwdriver or similar against a counterweight, and zero the indicator. Then, push the crank as far forward (accessory side) as possible, and read the gauge. That number is your endplay spec. You can also do it by prying the crankshaft all the way to one side (doesn't matter which), and slipping feeler gauges between the crank and the thrust bearing on the opposite side until you find one that fits (IE, if you push the crank towards the accessory side, measure endplay on the trans side). I like to see them with around .006" of endplay, but I think factory spec is .002" - .009", with a wear limit of .016".

 

[miguelmcv]

Nice video.
Wondering, What mod you did to the timing belt cover?.
I see you trim the cover to accept the 2g mount, But how about the extra height of the block?.
On a 4g64, we can buy the Galant Front cover and that's a bolt on, But how about the G4cs?.
I am building a G4cs as well, But was curious how you did your set up (Timing belt Cover).

 

[Atuca]

I just used the 1g cover top and bottom, and trimmed anywhere it didn't line up. It isn't a perfect fit, but it keeps rocks from the road from getting thrown up into the timing belt, which I suppose is the only job it is supposed to do.

 

[miguelmcv]

I see.
Thanks for sharing.

 

[suprasalas]

so did the 2g transmission fit right into the g4cs block? asking bacuse this weekend i am going to buy a g4cs block..

 

[Atuca]

Yes, fit right on, no modification needed.

 

[mikgsxx]

Very nice vid! I have a stock g4cs sitting in my garage waiting to get built!