Forced Performance 4" intake question

[1glaserfwd]

Let me first start by saying I am no noob, and I already can feel that I am gonna get flamed before I post anything! I am finishing up my holset hx35 install and am gonna order my fp intake. At the moment I am still on the 2g maf but will be going to speed density over this winter.

Question is the fp intake cost 80 dollars more to have the recirculation port welded to the pipe, I dont want to spend the extra 80 bucks when I am going to speed density soon either way. Is there really gonna be that huge of a difference if I vent the BOV for this summer. This is my third DSM and I have always recirculated but seems silly to pay 80 extra dollars for just this summer. Just want some real world experience, is my tune gonna be that much worse that it will make me that much slower this summer at the track! Please dont tell me read up on venting cause I know everyone says dont but is it really that huge of a deal. This is a car that is mostly only raced at the track and for a cruise on nice weekends, not a DD. Any input is appreciated.

Thanks

 

[97mitzugst]

Apparently some people vent the bov on stock maf with no issues, but from my experience it is a bad idea. You'll deffinately run rich on shifts. When I tried it I couldn't even get over 3k rpms without it stuttering and bucking.

 

[cl1ckclack]

why not just go SD now instead of this winter...

 

[bastarddsm]

If you NLTS it won't be that big of a deal. The biggest thing is it will stall when you let off the gas after a pull. It will generally idle like crap, and make you hate your car. It will still be drivable, but it will suck.

I think I have read that ecm link has an idle clamp function that may help with this. Maybe check up on that.

 

[stacked1G]

first things first, why not just go SD now? whats the reason you need to wait?

secondly i would recirculate that, its going to make you run very rich during shifts due to un metered air. it can cause sputtering, stalling, and rich conditions. i dont think those will help you at the track... if you have link/chip with nlts it will help with the rich shifts, but wont do anything for the irratic idle and possible sputtering...recirc it

 

[Dert]

I ran for 2 summers with no recirculated tube on (split and couldn't find another and was going SD anyways) and I had no issues at all. Only issue would have been running slightly rich after a shift on a wot pull. Never stalled, never bucked, idle was fine. Other people have had issues, I got lucky I guess.

 

[IrishBeatdown]

Go to extremepsi.com, recirculation tube is only 25$ through them. Then cap it when you run speed density.
EXTREME PSI : Your #1 Source for In Stock Performance Parts

 

[JusMX141]

You may be able to overcome the tendency to stall by adjusting your BOV slightly stiffer, or switching to a stiffer spring in the valve to have it close quicker and remain closed during idling. You may hear a little surge from the turbo while driving at low boost as a result, but the HX35 is surge-ported so it shouldn't damage the turbo at all.

 

[Tyeler18]

For $80 you can buy the ecmlink SD bundle, might as well just swap now. I personally am against venting on stock maf but in your case ill admit I wouldn't spend the money to get the port. I think they're ugly capped and its definitely not worth buying a second intake just for ascetics. I say either swap now or go without. SD is easy to setup so might as well swap

 

[1glaserfwd]

The reason I am waiting to go speed density is I do not have ecmlink yet! I am running a custom chip for this summer as I could not afford the ecmlink at the time. I have already ran the car with the 14b with the BOV vented as the owner of this car before me had some custom intake pipe with no recirc tube and the car seemed to run fine. If I had the 600 dollars to buy ecmlink right now I would be all over it but its just not in the budget at the moment. Seems strange everyone says the car idles like hell and bucks and wants to stall yet my car seems to run just fine although it was only a few miles of driving before the 200k plus 14b died at 20psi!!

 

[Ozone302]

I ran mine uncirculated and it idled kinda rough and would stall when letting off the gas and coming to a stop. Wasn't worth it at all.

 

[razza]

Its funny because in New Zealand on our Galant VR4s and early Lancer Evo the majority of people dont recirculate their BOVs. However nobody runs the factory BOV either as they leak. I tried running my VR4 non-recirculated on the standard BOV once and the car did run like absolute crap. If you have a quality aftermarket BOV and can adjust the spring pressure so the BOV is sealing at idle then, from my experience, it should be fine.

 

[NEpilot]

Use a slightly long coupler at the MAF to FP pipe, cut a hole and re-circ into the coupler hole. When you switch to SD you won't be using the coupler anymore.

 

[sciondan]

Just crush your stock 1g bov enough to stay closed at idle. Trick is to just add enough spring tension to overcome engine vac at idle. If you do this right the car will idle and run just like it did when it was recirculated. Except for going rich for a second between shifts, but everyone knows that. I have done this for a couple friends with no issues.

 

[lauj2gdsm]

I vent with no problems.. Just as long as you are not trying to be ricer cool go into boost and letting off to show off your blow off valve you should be fine with stalling issues, as for performance. I notice quicker spool between redline shifts.

 

[1glaserfwd]

I am running a crushed 1g bov, I think I will just go ahead and order the pipe without the recirc and take my chances, car seemed to run ok on the 14b. Like I said before its only for a short time. Thanks for all the input fellas!!

 

[1glaserfwd]

Hey guys another quick question? I was just about to order the fp intake and it says on a 1g using a maf it will not fit. Anybody using a fp intake with a 2g maf on a 1g? If not what are guys using on there holset setups on the 1g? Thanks guys

 

[daren_p]

What about finding a used, recirculated FP intake? Then get the non recirculated version when the time comes? If you buy used, you can probably re-sell it in the future for basically what it cost you. That way you don't have to worry if venting will be an issue for your setup.

Personally, when I had my Forge pull type BOV not recirculated to check how far it was open at idle, the car ran like complete crap. We all know the car will run rich between shifts as your blowing off metered air. If this is an issue for you, guess thats up to you to decide. As for poor idle, that probably will depend on what BOV you run. If you can get it to basically stay closed at idle, it would probably idle not too bad, though this may cause other issues with the valve blowing off properly.