Need help with electrical issues and vacuum lines

[punk3rz]

Talon pictures by PuNk3rz - Photobucket

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1995 Eagle Talon TSi, AWD, 5spd, 140k

I just bought this car for $500 because it wouldn't run and the owner couldn't figure out why.
After checking the fuses, the main 100amp fuse was blown. I believe this is what was causing it not to start although I could be wrong.
Would that fuse cause it to crank but not start?
I have a few questions, and I tried searing for a vacuum diagram but couldn't find one.

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Are all these vacuum lines hooked up correctly? Notice, one is blocked off with a screw. I'm guessing it is an EGR removal or something.

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I found this wiring dangling, and I'm wondering where it goes. Is it positive or negative?

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Should either of these be hooked up? My buddy told me the vacuum lines were fine but there should be a sensor on that 2 prong one.

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What plug is this? Where does it go, and what does it do?
There is also a black and a red wire coming from the harness that were just hanging there as well. What would this be?

Thanks to anyone that can help me.
Normally I wouldn't have this problem, but I bought the car like this and have no idea where they go.

 

[bryanwheat]

as for the two coming from oil filter housing one is a coolant line also??

You asking your question in this thread has caused some confusion, i think he is talking about his setup and you are under the assumption that he is trying to answer your question. It would be a good idea for a mod to delete a few post's in this thread so that it isn't so confusing.

 

[punk3rz]

Ordered injector o rings today, and got the bolts. Tomorrow I may beable to put it back together. I have another question though, what size bolts are the ones that hold the header on? The guy I bought it off of has all the screws thrown in a cup and the screws don't seem to fit right and I don't wanna strip out the head so i may need to get new bolts. I have the bottom studs, just not the top...

 

[NHerron]

There are

(7) M8 studs
(7) M8 flat washers
(7) M8 pinchnuts
(2) M10 studs
(2) M10 flat washers
(2) M10 pinchnuts

Like this
EXTREME PSI : Your #1 Source for In Stock Performance Parts

For good measure you might put a little RTV on the stud which is in the middle, bottom. That stud threads into an oil drain back from the head. Although, I didn't go RTV and haven't had a leak but some people do -just lettin' yaknow.

BUT be careful tightening if aluminum threads are coated with oil, as it's pretty easy to strip

Now would be a good time to check over that tubular mani for cracks etc.

 

[punk3rz]

Help

 

[NHerron]

Description maybe?

 

[punk3rz]

I've gave a description in my first post. No one has really answered any of the questions... still concerned about these random wires... also the temp sensor wire wont reach the temp sensor? Not exactly sure why but i guess I'll just have to lengthen them.

 

[NHerron]

No one has really answered any of the questions...

Yup, nothin

1995 Eagle Talon TSi, AWD, 5spd, 140k

I just bought this car for $500 because it wouldn't run and the owner couldn't figure out why.
After checking the fuses, the main 100amp fuse was blown. I believe this is what was causing it not to start although I could be wrong.
Would that fuse cause it to crank but not start?

Sorry we must have missed this. No it won't cause that. The fuse gets blown usually when someone changes the alternator without pulling the battery first.

I have a few questions, and I tried searing for a vacuum diagram but couldn't find one.

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Are all these vacuum lines hooked up correctly? Notice, one is blocked off with a screw. I'm guessing it is an EGR removal or something.

It's a 1G throttle body on 2G manifold as mentioned. Looking at this link, covers why the screw is there and it shows that particular TB uses the same vacuum diagram as your original TB which is likely still plastered on the underside of the hood. If the diagram is not there, here it is

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I found this wiring dangling, and I'm wondering where it goes. Is it positive or negative?

Power steering pressure switch
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/151542320-post48.html

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Should either of these be hooked up? My buddy told me the vacuum lines were fine but there should be a sensor on that 2 prong one.

The plastic thing is a California emissions requirement, works fine disconnected. Coolant sensor needs be hooked up that's most likely causing a no start.

Also, flush the cooling system you have some heavy electrolysis starting

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What plug is this? Where does it go, and what does it do?
There is also a black and a red wire coming from the harness that were just hanging there as well. What would this be?

The plug is for fog light. Where does the black/red wires go?

Fram filters are known to be thin and rust out by the way

 

[punk3rz]

Yea I know, the previous owner was the one who put that POS on it I hate fram. And I said didn't really. Not to specific. Plus I've been on my phone and Haven't really been able to see the sites people have posted. But my main thing is the random wires hanging everywhere... Either way, my turbo comes in on Tuesday and I'll try and put it back together then and see if I can get it running. It's probably out of times because the kid that had it said he doesn't know if it's even in times. So I'll check all that then and if I have any other questions I'll post back. Thanks for the answers.

 

[NHerron]

To tell if it's in time, pull out the spark plugs for one. Turn the steering wheel to the left to gain access to crank pulley. I forget the socket size but turn the pulley until the marks line up at 0* on plastic indicator scale. The marks are little cuts in the balancer. Now look at the camshaft gears, the dowels pins should face straight up and the marks will face eachother like this. Try not to turn the engine backwards, there's a good chance of jumping belt teeth that way

If it was out of time, chances are it has already been cranked over and any valve damage has already been done. Can you do a leak down test to confirm?
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/338152-compression-leak-down-testing.html

 

[punk3rz]

Gettin fuel, gettin spark, ecu looks good, im stuck... help?

 

[NHerron]

How did you check fuel, spark
Did you check if it was in time
Did you get the coolant sensor hooked up
etc

Have you read this yet
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-miscellaneous/217951-how-diagnose-no-start.html

 

[punk3rz]

Yes ive read it, it is in time. Coolant sensor is hooked up i believe. One on the coolant resivoir right?

 

[NHerron]

No. The sensor located in the thermostat housing that you took a picture of

That could cause a no start as mentioned before and- isn't that mentioned in the link too?

 

[punk3rz]

Yea thats the one i took a pic of, i did find the sensor and hook it up

 

[NHerron]

Was the previous owner already running the car with that 1g CAS installed? Did they wire it in correctly basically.

 

[miguelmcv]

Check if your cooling sensor is in good working conditions, and if you have a 1g CAS, did you swap the wire plugs?, if you don't, then that should be your problem.,,,, When installing a 1g CAS in a 2ga, It needs the wire plugs to be swap, other wise it will not start.

 

[punk3rz]

Can you give me more info on a 1g cas? First dsm, not really sure what the difference is and how it suppose 2 be wired

 

[mchustle]

Before wasting time messing with the Cas, I would check the compression. Some people in this thread thinks a motor only requires fuel and spark, but there is a third equally important aspect called compression. Grab a compression tester and post the results.

 

[punk3rz]

Alright will do. I bought a cps as well. Ill try compression then the sensor. It has a new head&gasket so i dont think thatd be it but ill check

 

[NHerron]

If you would start answering some questions you wouldnt have to buy random parts. If the car ever ran with the CAS installed, then its already wired correctly.

Mchustle, its been covered. Whether the OP takes the advice or not is up to them.

If it was out of time, chances are it has already been cranked over and any valve damage has already been done. Can you do a leak down test to confirm? Compression and Leak-Down Testing

 

[punk3rz]

Well honestly I'm not sure if it ever ran with it... I bought it non-running and the kid I got it off of said it did but it seems like he's lying.

 

[mchustle]

I don't understand why you would buy a cps not knowing if it was the problem???? Also IF it does have a 6bolt swap I hope you didn't buy a cps for a 95 or you wasted money. Go in this order compression test, then check the Cas wiring (not buy a new one off the bat). Wiring in the Cas is 4 wires so it's not hard to follow them and make sure it is wired in correctly or rewiring it all together. It took me all of 15mins to wire my Cas, and that includes soldering the wires and heat shrinking it and tucking it under the fuel rail.

 

[mchustle]

http://magnusmotorsports.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/1gina2g.pdf

6 Bolt Motor Install Into a 2G Eclipse

If your compression checks out follow either of the guides above. Since the motor is in the car the hardest part is over all that's left is Cas wiring, plug wire switch, and injector wire switch. This will tell you all the steps so you can check and see what's right and what's not.

 

[punk3rz]

Also, there is a sensor on the TB. Looks like a temp sensor. Does this need to be hooked up? And can someone pm me there number to where I can text for quick responses? I'm about to start work on it and don't wanna have to come in the house after every problem...

 

[Lofty]

NHerron covered most of it.
Take a picture of whats on the throttle body. How are your timing marks? You should do a compression test after you verify the timing is dead on. Like stated the hanging wire is a pressure switch. Replace ALL blown fuses. Either eliminate or make sure you have zero vaccuum leaks. The ECT sensor you had pictured is VERY important to your car running.