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What Synthetic Oil??

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FRslimmyjim

10+ Year Contributor
144
2
Dec 28, 2010
warwick, New York
I am just finishing my break in with my built 420a and want to switch it to synthetic because of the heat and the turbo. I have no knowledge of what is good or not so i apologize in advance :coy:. Should i run royal purple?? I have heard bad things about mobil 1 like it will mess up your engine if you change from that specific brand. Also 5w-30 or ???? Thanks for the help
 
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Here are two things to read that could help your situation.

http://store.forcedperformance.net/...Performance Recommendations for Motor Oil.pdf

Motor Oil: Synthetic vs. Non-Synthetic - Popular Mechanics

Also, switching brands cannot damage your engine as long as you stick to the correct weight ect.

I typically run 5w30 in warmer months and 10w30 in colder ones. I think 5w30 is factory recommended for the 420a.


Should that not be the other way around due to how thin 5w30 is so 5w30 in the winter for better cold starts and then 10w30? This is how i use to do it till i ran 10w30 all year now. As 5w is thinner its better for starting in cold weather as to what my manual says, and many others if im not mistaken

I like to run mobile one. royal purple is to pricey for me but thats up to you. I have ran mobile one for a few months and have not had any problems with it.

Just to let you know in advance i use to use mobil 1 but i got alot of build up inside the engine so i switched to royal ourple and its alot better now, plus mobile 1 add a grit type substance so it wears rings faster this was according to an online survey on all oils and i believe super street also did this,


My personal prefferance is royal purple, 10w30 for a stock motor or 10w40-50 for an upgraded motor
 
I use Mobil 1 5w-30 for winter and Mobil 1 10w-30 for summer. Haven't had any issues with it. And not just on my GSX either, I own a FOrd f-150, Dodge Neon, use to own a Chevy S-15, Pontiac Grand AM. But anyways I have just used Mobil 1. I would like to use Royal Purple but it is a little expensive. Maybe i'll try it next oil change.
 
Not trying to hijack or anything, But does a 4G63 with an hx35 require different weight oil? if so what would be the oil to use for an oil change.. It has royal purple and lucas stablizer in it now. but RP is 10.50 a quart where i live
 
Should that not be the other way around due to how thin 5w30 is so 5w30 in the winter for better cold starts and then 10w30?

Yes. That's what I ment. I don't know how I confused that, I just bought 10w like yesterday.

Not trying to hijack or anything, But does a 4G63 with an hx35 require different weight oil? if so what would be the oil to use for an oil change.. It has royal purple and lucas stablizer in it now. but RP is 10.50 a quart where i live

I would stick with what you have. It will be sufficient. There is no need to change oil weight because of a turbo upgrade. I would worry about the motor>turbo.
 
If you care about your car so much that you need to ask what oil to use, I suggest just picking a top-tier brand like redline, royal purple, or amsoil and be done with it. You can't go wrong. Just make sure you continue using the same oil to ensure the detergents don't counteract with each other. Have fun!
 
Ask your machine shop, or who ever built it.. ask them their suggestion based on Bearing clearances. Tpicially they will suggest something with high Zinc as well. If you have aftermarket bearings (###### clevites), id ask them what to use, as the clearance really defines what you should use. Typically the oils they recomend have a higher "breakdown" temp as well..
 
Amsoil here. Use to use Mobil1, but made the switch last year after I built my bottom end. Amsoil is supposed to be a superior oil & I actually have a local source thats cheeper then I use to pay for Mobil1.
 
Personally, I use Mobil Clean 5000 (non-synthetic), but debating which oil to use on a car forum is like debating religion. I recommend reading the links in the second post and drawing your own conclusions.
 
I've been using Mobil 1 Extended Performance and Asmoil oil filters (used to use WIX but decided to change recently). The combination of Mobil 1 Extended Performance and Asmoil filters will allow you to go up to 15,000 miles between oil changes. The most I'd go is 8,000, depending on what the oil looks like up until then. I usually change my oil every 5000-7000 miles and never had a problem. Had the engine apart and there was no sludge buildup and all components were wearing properly.

Cheers.
 
I used to run Mobile 1. Found on Forced Performances website a list of oils that they would recommend (due to research they have done) about which oils they would run while using their turbos. I now use Amsoil 15w50 Dominator racing oil.

Jayson
 
Right now im running rotella t 15-40. Hell if i know but i think its ok... I like the high zinc oils and since i dont road race, i dont need the high heat characteristics of a synthetic. Dont get me wrong, theyre great and all, but ive been into sportbikes for years and read many reviews of dino vs synthetics and heat breakdown is the main bonus with synth. Ive ran quaker state or pennzoil in all my bikes over the years and never had a problem FWIW.
 
A highly recommend oil on this forum and from most DSM shop is Brad Penn cause of its high zinc context, but it is not recommend for cars running cats. But like the FP article says any oil with a high zinc context like Royal Purple, Valvoline Vr1, Amsoil, will work just fine. After extensive reading on this matter i have concluded, its mostly preference. Hope this helps.
 
I used to run mobile 1 5w-20 never had any problems but from break in to just over 10k I probably did 4-5 oil changes. But I switched to ams oil 0w-20 now. Use their filter as well. They guarantee engine protection for 15'000 miles on my car(usually 25'000 but 15 due to the small filter.).

If my engine is ever damaged due to their oil failure they cover it. The guarantee is 15'000 miles or a, year. So a change may cost 75$ but it goes,alot further and is covered. Will be running their oil in my tranny as,well whe my car goes back together.
 
I like amsoil more and more now. I used to be a M1 guy, no complaints. Then went to syntec edge with titanium in my work truck. Then went to amsoil. I was paying like 8-10 a quart for the higher end shelf brand synthetics. I got a corporate account for my business with amsoil now. Cost nothing for the membership (i think its $20 a year for a personal one). Now I get their signature series for like 7.80 a quart, unbelievable. And I only have to change my oil once a year when I buy their filter, and honestly when I do change it it looks better at 20-25k miles than the shelf brands at 5-10k miles when I drain.
 
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