Back in the DSM game!

[huafist]

After 4 or 5 years, I'm back in the DSM game finally. Picked up a '95 awd Saturday. It has a few problems, but it won't take much to get it running. That being said:

This is my first 2G of any kind, so bear with me .

I'm having an intermittent problem where the car will start for 4 seconds, then die. If I unplug the battery and allow the ECU to reset, it'll fire up and run just fine. It may start 20 times fine, it may start 5 times fine - but eventually, it'll go back to starting & dying. My research leads me to believe it's the CAS, which I'm told is behind the intake cam gear on a 95 - 96. The car ran perfectly fine when it was parked due to clutch issues. It sat for 3 years. I've never heard of a CAS going bad from sitting, but I'm assuming it's possible? Anything else I should try before replacing it? Also, are there any air gap specs or similar for this type of CAS I should be aware of before replacement?

The only other major issue is clutch engagement, and I'm beginning to think the system simply isn't bled properly. I readjusted the rod per the proper procedure, and I was able to put it in gear fine - actually drove it around the block. I parked it, and the next time I started it, it wouldn't go in gear again. I'm gonna get some help when it quits raining and try bleeding it. If that doesn't fix it, I don't quite know what direction to go in next .

 

[rtrocket59]

The only other major issue is clutch engagement, and I'm beginning to think the system simply isn't bled properly. I readjusted the rod per the proper procedure, and I was able to put it in gear fine - actually drove it around the block. I parked it, and the next time I started it, it wouldn't go in gear again. I'm gonna get some help when it quits raining and try bleeding it. If that doesn't fix it, I don't quite know what direction to go in next .

If bleeding doesn't fix it I would get a new master and slave cylinder along with a stainless steel clutch line. Don't get the master and slave from autozone, get either OEM mitsubishi or exedy. they are the only company who makes the OEM replica and there both 20 bucks each from the dsmgraveyard

 

[huafist]

If bleeding doesn't fix it I would get a new master and slave cylinder along with a stainless steel clutch line. Don't get the master and slave from autozone, get either OEM mitsubishi or exedy. they are the only company who makes the OEM replica and there both 20 bucks each from the dsmgraveyard

Bleeding didn't fix it - but while I was under there, I noticed the fork sitting all the way to the passenger side. I pulled the slave off, and I had a good 3/4" of slack up & down in the fork. I'm pulling the trans tomorrow to inspect the TOB, fork, and pivot ball.

 

[huafist]

Just to update - the throwout bearing was DESTROYED ;

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Looks like the ACT 2600 kit that the previous owner had installed came with one of the TOB's with a plastic casing - I found part of it melted . When it came apart, it unfortunately damaged the clutch fork as well. I replaced it and installed a new TOB that is completely metal, and reinstalled the trans.
After that, I fired up the laptop and DSMLink for the test drive - the trans shifted exactly as it should have, but the start then die issue still remained. A quick read of the DTC's in 'Link showed what I suspected - camshaft position sensor failure. I decided to swap to a 1G CAS, so I repinned the coil and the injector signal wires at the ECU, cut the plugs off of the stock CPS and CKP sensors, and made a harness for the 1G sensor.
I also decided that at this point, I might as well go ahead and pull the timing belt off and remove the cams, since I had a set of Kelford 272's and a set of beehive springs coming in later in the week. When I pulled the timing cover, I discovered the car still had balance shafts, and that the front belt had indeed broken - somehow, it had wedged itself behind the hydraulic tensioner, and that kept it out of the main timing belt. I decided while I had it down that far, that I'd eliminate the balance shafts.
After much cursing and banging around, I finished the BSE, and ported the oil pressure relieve valve in the oil filter housing . After putting it all back together, I pulled out a spare head that I had, and I fabbed up a tool to compress the valve springs with the head on the car. I stuffed the cylinders, one at a time, with nylon string and ran it as far up as I could to hold the valves in place, and replaced valve stem seals and installed the beehive springs, then installed the kelford 272's and the 1G CAS. Right now, the engine is 100% reassembled, but somehow my water pump and alternator belts have walked off so I couldn't finish putting it back together. Hopefully I can pick up a new set of belts tomorrow and give her a start.

 

[Tiki2777]

Just to update - the throwout bearing was DESTROYED ;

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Looks like the ACT 2600 kit that the previous owner had installed came with one of the TOB's with a plastic casing - I found part of it melted . When it came apart, it unfortunately damaged the clutch fork as well. I replaced it and installed a new TOB that is completely metal, and reinstalled the trans.
After that, I fired up the laptop and DSMLink for the test drive - the trans shifted exactly as it should have, but the start then die issue still remained. A quick read of the DTC's in 'Link showed what I suspected - camshaft position sensor failure. I decided to swap to a 1G CAS, so I repinned the coil and the injector signal wires at the ECU, cut the plugs off of the stock CPS and CKP sensors, and made a harness for the 1G sensor.
I also decided that at this point, I might as well go ahead and pull the timing belt off and remove the cams, since I had a set of Kelford 272's and a set of beehive springs coming in later in the week. When I pulled the timing cover, I discovered the car still had balance shafts, and that the front belt had indeed broken - somehow, it had wedged itself behind the hydraulic tensioner, and that kept it out of the main timing belt. I decided while I had it down that far, that I'd eliminate the balance shafts.
After much cursing and banging around, I finished the BSE, and ported the oil pressure relieve valve in the oil filter housing . After putting it all back together, I pulled out a spare head that I had, and I fabbed up a tool to compress the valve springs with the head on the car. I stuffed the cylinders, one at a time, with nylon string and ran it as far up as I could to hold the valves in place, and replaced valve stem seals and installed the beehive springs, then installed the kelford 272's and the 1G CAS. Right now, the engine is 100% reassembled, but somehow my water pump and alternator belts have walked off so I couldn't finish putting it back together. Hopefully I can pick up a new set of belts tomorrow and give her a start.

, just getting back in the game... what a man.

"there seems to be a uh problem here sir..."
"Oh, well we'll just rip it apart then."
"WHAT?!"
"Yep, bam, done" (boss)

 

[atownturbo]

Just diving right back in .

 

[Abe'sGST]

Just to update - the throwout bearing was DESTROYED ;

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Looks like the ACT 2600 kit that the previous owner had installed came with one of the TOB's with a plastic casing - I found part of it melted . When it came apart, it unfortunately damaged the clutch fork as well. I replaced it and installed a new TOB that is completely metal, and reinstalled the trans.
After that, I fired up the laptop and DSMLink for the test drive - the trans shifted exactly as it should have, but the start then die issue still remained. A quick read of the DTC's in 'Link showed what I suspected - camshaft position sensor failure. I decided to swap to a 1G CAS, so I repinned the coil and the injector signal wires at the ECU, cut the plugs off of the stock CPS and CKP sensors, and made a harness for the 1G sensor.
I also decided that at this point, I might as well go ahead and pull the timing belt off and remove the cams, since I had a set of Kelford 272's and a set of beehive springs coming in later in the week. When I pulled the timing cover, I discovered the car still had balance shafts, and that the front belt had indeed broken - somehow, it had wedged itself behind the hydraulic tensioner, and that kept it out of the main timing belt. I decided while I had it down that far, that I'd eliminate the balance shafts.
After much cursing and banging around, I finished the BSE, and ported the oil pressure relieve valve in the oil filter housing . After putting it all back together, I pulled out a spare head that I had, and I fabbed up a tool to compress the valve springs with the head on the car. I stuffed the cylinders, one at a time, with nylon string and ran it as far up as I could to hold the valves in place, and replaced valve stem seals and installed the beehive springs, then installed the kelford 272's and the 1G CAS. Right now, the engine is 100% reassembled, but somehow my water pump and alternator belts have walked off so I couldn't finish putting it back together. Hopefully I can pick up a new set of belts tomorrow and give her a start.

Nice, hopefully after all that it will run like a champ.

 

[huafist]

, just getting back in the game... what a man.

"there seems to be a uh problem here sir..."
"Oh, well we'll just rip it apart then."
"WHAT?!"
"Yep, bam, done" (boss)

No sense in dicking around about it; might as well go ahead and get it all done

Just diving right back in .

It's a DSM - if you pick one up expecting to not turn a wrench, you're in for a rude awakening

 

[96eclipselovr]

Nice, hopefully after all that it will run like a champ.

Agreed, Good luck!

 

[huafist]

Thanks guys. Got it all back together today. Now, I'm just having a problem keeping the aluminum elbow from popping off of the turbo discharge every time I boost in 2nd gear haha. I hit about 5k, and POP!. Sucks to be stranded when a stupid MAF car blows an IC pipe.