fresh fmic install, all new piping and bov. now overheating when idles. and stalls

[gameover95]

Hey guys, just had a new front mount intercooler with new piping and bov installed today. Seemed to be running good, the rpm gauge was moving up and down a little but my car has always done that. Anyways a hour or so later I parked and let my car idle and it started overheating, noticed the coolant bubbling but the fan wasn't even coming on.. not really sure what's going on. Especially when I boost, and let off and go into neutral, my rpm gauge will drop unless I give it some gas and it will stall.. starts right back up but I know this isn't normal.. don't really know what's going on with it.. can't really explain it to well..but its like nothings there to prevent it from stalling.. when it drops it die

Any ideas ?s

 

[chadjoe]

Recirculate the blow off valve back into the intake if it isn't already. The coolant temp switch could be bad causing the fans not to come on, and also causing the car to run poorly.

 

[gameover95]

ChadJoe, the bov is recirculated. I posted some pics on my profile so you could see.. wasn't sure if it was caused by anything today.. it never overheated before.

 

[chadjoe]

Sorry I see that now. The coolant temp switch going out will cause the engine to start running bad and also cause your rad fans not to cycle. In turn making your car overheat and boil coolant all over the place. Or your ac fan fuse is blown. Turn on your ac inside the car and see if the fans cycle. If so let it idle and see if it starts to overheat again. You might replace the plugs now that your running a new intercooler also.

 

[boost97gst]

Find out why your fans arent kicking on. Theres your problem

 

[MichaelSuch]

Your car dies/stalls because you most likely have a boost leak somewhere. One of the couplers isn't clamped down completely or something. Perform a boost leak test.

You need to figure out why your fans aren't coming on. Could be a bad fan, could be a bad coolant temp switch, could be a fuse.

 

[gameover95]

Your car dies/stalls because you most likely have a boost leak somewhere. One of the couplers isn't clamped down completely or something. Perform a boost leak test.

You need to figure out why your fans aren't coming on. Could be a bad fan, could be a bad coolant temp switch, could be a fuse.

I was hoping after we replaced all the piping and intercooler it wouldn't have that problem, it did that before thats why I bought the new set up..we double checked everything..it was all tight. We noticed the throttle cable was loose so we tightened it up.. not sure if it had anything to do with it or not

any other suggestions? I just want to fix this thing

Thanks man

Sorry I see that now. The coolant temp switch going out will cause the engine to start running bad and also cause your rad fans not to cycle. In turn making your car overheat and boil coolant all over the place. Or your ac fan fuse is blown. Turn on your ac inside the car and see if the fans cycle. If so let it idle and see if it starts to overheat again. You might replace the plugs now that your running a new intercooler also.

I took the car out a little while ago, didn't over heat that time.. maybe because I was boosting the hell out of it right after we did the new set up..but still doing the stalling issue if I get on it and let off the RPM gauge drops unless I give it gas

 

[MichaelSuch]

Only way to find out is build a boost leak tester and do the test. If it did it before the FMIC then it's most likely something else. Could be Throttle body shaft seals, throttle body gaskets, intake manifold gasket, fuel injector seals (very common of these to dry up, get hard and crack, replace these for sure if yours have never been replaced), egr gasket, any of the various vacuum lines could have a hole in it.

 

[this_tsi_8urV8]

Make sure the connector for the Coolant Temp wasn't disturbed, pulled off, etc. The stalling issue, could be because of the FMIC itself and/or the location where the BOV returns the air. It could be causing a reading fluctuation on the MAF, causing it to shut off. Those were also conclusions that were discussed on ECMLink forum on possible causes for the stalling.

 

[my dreamt dsm]

Hey guys, just had a new front mount intercooler with new piping and bov installed today. Seemed to be running good, the rpm gauge was moving up and down a little but my car has always done that. Anyways a hour or so later I parked and let my car idle and it started overheating, noticed the coolant bubbling but the fan wasn't even coming on.. not really sure what's going on. Especially when I boost, and let off and go into neutral, my rpm gauge will drop unless I give it some gas and it will stall.. starts right back up but I know this isn't normal.. don't really know what's going on with it.. can't really explain it to well..but its like nothings there to prevent it from stalling.. when it drops it die

Any ideas ?s

That's why you should fix maintenance before you buy after market parts. I learned the hard way
Second it maybe your thermostat but each problems vary. Why I say thermostat. Because I replaced everything mention, radiator cap, all coolant sensor. I thought it wasn't the thermostat but as soon as I replaced that. I was so happy, like a kid on Christmas. My fans weren't coming on for over a year. One way you can still tell if your fans are working is have the knobs on defrost mode, air set to non circulate/ blow thru, heat on high, and turn the air speed knob to the second dot. If it comes on, might not be relay or sensor related.

 

[gameover95]

The overheating hasn't happened again, it gets up to the middle when i'm just idling for a long time but doesnt go any farther, however still doing the stalling after I let the rpms drop without giving it gas. Still working on this issue, haven't forgot about the post.

Will post when resolved!

 

[gameover95]

ALL SET :] You guys will probably think this would be the first thing I checked, but the FAN itself was the culprit. It was broken, it looks like the outlet pipe off the turbo melted the plastic shroud causing the fan to hit the melted part of the shroud and break it. Installed dual slim fans, but still having the stalling issue :[

 

[NHerron]

Stalling issue is ISC/throttle body related there is guides for each of the following below let me know if you cant find them

Boost leak test and seafoam the engine via vacuum line (good maintenance)
Test ISC motor coils
Clean throttle body well
Check/Adjust TPS

 

[gameover95]

Stalling issue is ISC/throttle body related there is guides for each of the following below let me know if you cant find them

Boost leak test and seafoam the engine via vacuum line (good maintenance)
Test ISC motor coils
Clean throttle body well
Check/Adjust TPS

Would this narrow it? What happens is, I get on it for like a minute, let off and go into neutral. The Rpm gauge doesn't just go back to 1ish.. it just drops all the way and stalls unless you give it gas. I've replaced EVERYTHING , I just want this thing to be done.

 

[Spoolin92GSX]

Would this narrow it? What happens is, I get on it for like a minute, let off and go into neutral. The Rpm gauge doesn't just go back to 1ish.. it just drops all the way and stalls unless you give it gas. I've replaced EVERYTHING , I just want this thing to be done.

One, or a combination of these should fix your problem. Start with the easiest/simplest first - boost leak test. I'd say around 90% of our problems come from boost leaks, and check EVERYWHERE! Bov flange, throttle body (especially the back), injector seals, any/all vacuum/emissions lines, etc. ISC coils are easy to test, same with the TPS - adjusting can be a little more difficult. If it hasn't been done before cleaning/rebuilding the throttle body can make a huge difference.

 

[NHerron]

Would this narrow it? What happens is, I get on it for like a minute, let off and go into neutral. The Rpm gauge doesn't just go back to 1ish.. it just drops all the way and stalls unless you give it gas. I've replaced EVERYTHING , I just want this thing to be done.

If the ISC is not opened far enough to keep enough air flowing in (via small passage around throttle plate), it can choke the engine and that's why you can only keep it running with foot on gas. However, there is nothing to adjust on the ISC, as it is controlled by the ECU based on parameters and inputs. So when a stalling problem occurs it can be a number of things having to do with the idle speed control system. That could be blocked throttle body ports, electrical faults, etc

The list I mentioned should cover most common problems and at the same time easiest to test

2G Turbo DSM Boost Leak Test

DSM ISC motor testing & Replacement - YouTube

Throttle Body Cleaning

RRE TPS adjustment (towards bottom)

 

[boost97gst]

Would this narrow it? What happens is, I get on it for like a minute, let off and go into neutral. The Rpm gauge doesn't just go back to 1ish.. it just drops all the way and stalls unless you give it gas. I've replaced EVERYTHING , I just want this thing to be done.

God does that sound like an uncirculated BOV..

 

[NHerron]

If it was, it would stutter and choke letting you know it doesn't like being drowned in gasoline haha. Sounds like everything is kosher and then it dies in a smooth fashion as if shutting off the car with key

 

[AngelOfPassion]

Isn't it completely normal for a car this age to stall out under those conditions? If RPM drops that fast it seems like it would stall out a car. My GSX does this and it's completely stock. If I get on it in the higher RPM's and just push in the clutch or go into neutral the car just shuts off smoothly.

Edit: And A LOT of people have this same issue...

 

[NHerron]

No thats not normal, something needs to be cleaned fixed or adjusted. I can wrap it up hard in a run until it almost hits fuel cut and at the same time quickly release the throttle and push in the clutch. Havent stalled out once.

 

[97mitzugst]

I had the same issue after I put my hard intake on. It would drive fine but cut off when I would push the clutch in. Finally realized the coupler from the intake to turbo wasn't on tight enough and was leaking. I didn't have any stuttering whatsoever either.

 

[fparedes07070]

Mine was stalling the same way just yesterday. A buddy adjusted my biss screw and the problem went away. Its idles pretty decent and it doesn't shut off when going to neutral after high rev.... just my .02$

 

[AngelOfPassion]

No thats not normal, something needs to be cleaned fixed or adjusted. I can wrap it up hard in a run until it almost hits fuel cut and at the same time quickly release the throttle and push in the clutch. Havent stalled out once.

Huh... I have never looked into it because I never thought it was an issue... I just avoid doing it and make sure to put it in gear. Maybe I will look at your list of things to check and go through it myself haha

 

[Spoolin92GSX]

Isn't it completely normal for a car this age to stall out under those conditions? If RPM drops that fast it seems like it would stall out a car. My GSX does this and it's completely stock. If I get on it in the higher RPM's and just push in the clutch or go into neutral the car just shuts off smoothly.

Edit: And A LOT of people have this same issue...

No it's definitely not normal , cars are meant to run not stall My GSX is almost 21 and I've got it idling just as smooth as a brand new car, and it doesn't die if I hit the clutch after a pull. Granted it took some work to get it there, but that's because there were things wrong with the car

Here's what worked on my DSM:
Throttle body rebuild (biss o ring and shaft seals)
RTV BOV flange
Replace rotten vacuum lines
Replaced MAF (try testing with a known working unit before you spend the $$$)
BISS adjustment
ECU repair

Each of these made the car run a little better in every aspect, especially idle. I'm still buttoning down the last few leaks, but my smile gets bigger and bigger when she spools up

 

[AngelOfPassion]

Thanks for the list! For me and the OP! haha

My ECU is actually at ECMtuning right now...
I am planning on replacing all small air lines soon (Larson kit from RRE)
And I am getting a new BOV and intercooler piping

So hopefully one of those will fix the issue for me... OP should do the same i guess...