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Starting issues - No / Doesn't / Won't Start - MERGED

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prodsm

20+ Year Contributor
258
0
Nov 12, 2002
canada, Manitoba_Canada
All "my car won't start" discussion threads are merged HERE. We've basically made it easier for those who insist upon not searching by grouping together all threads from those with similar issues so you can just scroll through and see some possible solutions. To search for info within this thread, use the "Search This Thread" feature in the black bar about 3" above what you're reading right now.

Could be anything from a loose battery terminal to internal engine damage, and literally everything in between which may involve the electrical, fuel, and ignition system...possibly even something that you screwed up while working on the car yourself. While it's unlikely we're going to diagnose and solve your problem over the internet, feel free to discuss any possible solutions.




I live in Canada and right now its not very warm out, about -30c
my car does not have a block heater too keep it warm.

I tryed to start my car this morning and it wouldent start, ive had this problem before but this time, the car doesnt crank at all it just makes a sound that sounds like an electric drill.

Whats wrong.

Thanks
 
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You might have a cylinder that's not firing, that would cause a pretty lousy idle and almost no power if you tried to drive it. I've been having similair issues, come to find out it was a plugged fuel injector. I've had some luck pulling them out and cleaning them with carb cleaner, but it doesn't guarantee they'll work.

If it's getting cold outside, your coolant temperature sensor may have failed and that would cause a hard start (probably doesn't explain the rough idle.) Let me just suggest that if you're going to change it to only use a deep socket that will fit over the electrical connectors. I used a wrench on mine and f*kd it up pretty good.

I drive a '90 turbo as well, so if you need to compare notes on anything just let me know. Good luck!
 
Started with one turn over after I put the ngk in it.
and I forgot to tighten the oil return hose (smh)

But it started and I didn't have the intercooler piping hooked up was just loose at mad invade it needed ether to start

Ran for a minute and I could feel air from IC being pushed which shoulda been hooked up and thinkbiy wouldst idled fine

When I put the IC back on the maf and hooked it all back it wouldn't start right back like it did? ?

You might have a cylinder that's not firing, that would cause a pretty lousy idle and almost no power if you tried to drive it. I've been having similair issues, come to find out it was a plugged fuel injector. I've had some luck pulling them out and cleaning them with carb cleaner, but it doesn't guarantee they'll work.

If it's getting cold outside, your coolant temperature sensor may have failed and that would cause a hard start (probably doesn't explain the rough idle.) Let me just suggest that if you're going to change it to only use a deep socket that will fit over the electrical connectors. I used a hiwrench on mine and f*kd it up pretty good.

I drive a '90 turbo as well, so if you need to compare notes on anything just let me know. Good luck!


Hummm... behind cylinder 1 the injector appears to have gas around it
 
That is fuse #6 which feeds the ignition switch. The other components on that circuit aren't really effected when starting (door locks, mirrors, wipers ect..)
Being that it is a 30 amp circuit, a DVOM would be useless here. The easiest test is going to cost you another fuse, but it is the place I would start.
Pull the signal wire off the starter ( the little one)
Replace that fuse again and start turning the key to crank- the starter won't run and it will take a high starter draw problem out of the equation.
If the fuse doesn't blow- you have a wiring issue to the starter. Make sure you turned the key enough times to be certain it would have blown normally. Also it seems like you have the problem more often when the car has been driven, so perhaps go for a nice long ride first.

If the fuse blows, it is time to test the ignition switch. It is a 6 pin switch and I will assume you can figure out where it is... ;))
Without it infront of me, I am working off of the schematic. It appears that pin 3 will be the ground, being that is the only wire not shown in the schem. Pin 5 (black/red wire) is the 'start' signal out of the switch.
Pull the connector off of the ignition switch and connect one test lead to pin 5 on the switch (not the connector) and the other lead to pin 3. Set the meter to ohms. With the key in the 'run' position you should have no continuity between those pins.
Turn the key to crank while watching the meter, it should not show anything but OL between run and crank. If you see the meter jump to anything but 'almost' infinite, the switch is shorting.
I will stop here for now, that should keep you busy for awhile....
If these tests still don't show anything, let me know and we will move on to the next step.
 
Yesterday I hit what appears to be fuel cut on the way home. Got on it a little in high gear, built some boost, then died. Now it'll turn over fine, just wont fire. I think it may be an ignition problem, because I can't get the plug wires to arch while its cranking over. Any suggestions? Any help is greatly appriciated :D

Oh, it's a 98 gsx, with some basic bolt ons, intake, BOV, exhaust, and an mbc.
 
sounds like the single wire on the starter came off. mine did this a little while back. the starter itself is actually spinning but the rod that pushes the teeth on the flywheel isn't engaging. try and see if that wire came off. if your timing was off your car would still crank but you would have bent valves.
 
ok i have a 91 tsi auto with about 115k original miles. my problem is that when i first go to start my car it wont start. it takes about ten to 15 minutes. but if i spray a little bit of starting fluid in the throttle body and she fires up with no problem. soon as Ive ran it for about 5 minutes it starts just fine.
 
I don't think it's a battery issue if the motor is turning over for 10-15min.

Check your temp sensor, it may have cracked or damaged wires in most cases or is just bad.
 
Check voltage, also I would recommend 10w-30 oil for winter and cold starts.
 
the starter itself is actually spinning but the rod that pushes the teeth on the flywheel isn't engaging.

minus 30 celcius .. plenty damned cold. Put a trouble light with a 100w clear bulb in the thing and place the light under the oil pan to keep the oil warm at nights

Starter operation primer 101:

two wires runs to the starter: one from the battery and the other one from the key. The key closes the current to the selenoid to pull the plunger in to make contact with the two contacts inside the back of the seleniod - where one contact is connected to that battery wire and the other contact heads to the starter motor.

the plunger is also attached to the mechanism that pushes the starter pinion gear forward to mesh with the flywheel. Thus, when you hit the key, the selenoid pulls the plunger in to the contacts to engage the motor while the shaft pushes out the pinon gear .. it all works together.

Those contacts have a habit of getting worn down where that ring on the plunger won't make a circuit to the motor.
 
If it's not that you'll need to start with the basics. Check for boost leaks, spark plugs, plug wires, fuel filter, fuel quality, O2 sensor, possible MAF issue, ect.
 
These all sound like fuel pressure/fuel pump problems. Very cheap places to start.
 
hi there guys my problem here is my car wont start for nothing, in rare times it tries to start but to no avail. but i checked all over the spark,compression,coil and all but i have this problem with the cas that theres 4 wires there, the two ones with voltage are red with 12.0v and yellow with 4.8-5.2, the yellow one i connect it to the cas and the car with the ignition on and it only gives me 0.19v-0.20v all the time.if i disconnect it it gives me the 4.8v required. but once i connect it again it only gives 0.19v, the red one is always good. but don't know whats happening there! any ideas guys??? or suggestions??
 
On a side note I'm almost certain it has to deal with my signal trip wire to the fuel pump because sometimes when it wouldn't start I never heard the fuel pump (even with the new relays) and I see all electrical tape from the relay connector wires.
 
Two months ago I bought a 92 gsx with a blown head gasket. After I took it apart, got the machine work done, and reassembled the motor I got all new belts and gaskets.. When I tried to start the car it would NOT start. At this point I checked for leaks and found a massice puddle of gas, yes GAS, under the car leaking at cyl #1 tight by the turbo manifold.
 
Check your injector seals, if it's really a massive puddle of gas are you sure your fuel return line is hooked up?

When I forgot to hook up my return line to the stock fpr the car still started just fine so that's why I'm thinking seals. Is your fuel rail leaking at the o-rings?
 
ok if any one can help i recorded the sound on my phone and trying to upload it on here but not to sure on how by i sent it to my email address. I think i have it but let me know if it works and what you think it is...

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send me an email and i can try to forward it to you and hopefully the sound works with it
 
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