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420a valve pulling

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dubysnax

10+ Year Contributor
44
0
Aug 1, 2011
homosassa, Florida
im trying to remove the valves from my 95 420 head and i cant figure it out. its not worth losing the retainers from them shooting off. the reason im doing so is for a port and polish job. i feel comfortable with going at it myself i just need to get the valves out. any help would be great. thanks
 
a 5/8 or 15mm socket, 3' extention and a Decent weight hammer 16oz or so, a wad of masking tape
1 small contaner (Spray can cap), one mid sized container ( cut open 1 gal jug), a couple shop rags
1 box (shoe box size) mark one end front, 8 pencil sized holes down each side

wad up a ball of masking tape, and pack in the socket, this is to seal off socket drive hole.
put the extention in the socket drive hole

1) Wad a shop rag up and fill the combustion chamber with it, place on firm surface
2)Place the socket w/ extention on the valve spring retainer
3)Whack the extention with the hammer firmly
4) Pick up the valve locks with the pocket magnet and place in the small container
5)Place spring and retainer in the mid sized container
6) Pull valves out and place in hole in box in order from front to back
7) Repeate on the next cylinder
 
im trying to remove the valves from my 95 420 head and i cant figure it out. its not worth losing the retainers from them shooting off. the reason im doing so is for a port and polish job. i feel comfortable with going at it myself i just need to get the valves out. any help would be great. thanks

So you feel comfortable porting your head, but you can't get the valve springs off and the valves out? Removing the springs is the easy part. Porting is nothing that you should even be thinking about at this point.
 
No problem!

Just keep in mind, if you touch the valve seat while you are porting, you will need to have a valve job done
 
bryan i just didnt want to mess anything up. these are different from hondas. ive done it several times on hondas. im trying to save as much as i can so i can better spend the money on say a turbo kit or well cams first. the only good shop around here said 5 to 600 to do it. why in the world would someone pay that much??
 
You can make a cheap compressor out of a c clamp and a socket that will make the job a lot easier. Also don't assume that you are saving money by porting the head yourself. You can actually make it flow worse than it does from the factory if you don't do it correctly. You are also not likely to gain any noticeably power by doing so.
 
How extensive are you going to port?
Just a gasket match with a bowl clean up and casting flash removal?

DO NOT mess with the short turn radius, and no more than about the first 3/4 of an inch of the floor from the manifoild mating surface.

With out the use of a flow bench and hours and hours of porting experiance, you can end up making your head flow worse than stock.
 
its not for a real power increase. im doing it for a deeper pitch, and better airflow. plus when i add a turbo it will help it alot. i dont have a c clamp that big tho. ill see if i can find one. i have a good set of instructions now. thank you for your help and concern

thats all i was going for. slight porting and a lot of polishing. but still a gasket match.
 
How is this working out for you?

Any progress? Pics?
 
will post pics later. ive spent the last week on the block. teyin to get everything sent off for a .040 bore and specs for everything so i order the right parts.

just got in from pulling my valves. it took all of 30 minutes to do so once i hit the socket hard enough. all came apart easily and organized as you said bogus. im going in the morning for wire wheels and sanding stones. so more pics to be posted:hellyeah:
 

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If you have an air compressor, get a couple cheap die grinders, I like the CH from walmart or lowes for about $23 each
 
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