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FP3582 vs FP3065

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Moonlight GSX

10+ Year Contributor
553
49
Nov 16, 2010
Hagerman, Idaho
Apparently the 3065 is a sweet deal but what about the 3582? Would it be better suited to run the 3582 for achieving 600 whp opposed to the 3065? I've done nothing but math and math on this and it's getting me no where other than just match-crunching headaches....:banghead:
 
As a man of experimental tendencies, I'm going to try the 3065 regardless and if it doesn't suit me or if I change my mind to run the 3582 later on because I want to do nothing but track then so be it. You all put forth logical information, I mean it kinda makes sense to me for the most part, but as I'm starting to get deep into the "knowledge" of what is a true DSMer I'm going to have to make decisions from the various things I get from everyone. Again, everyone is entitled to their opinion, if TSimage says the 3065 is great for street I'm going to try it and see what happens. But on the flipside I'm not going to disregard anyone else either - if I have or have not made a mistake in my decision it's on my account and no one else right?

TSimage - you have my trust. If what you are saying is correct then kudos. If not then it's whatever. I'm willing to learn and burn if I have to.

Everyone else, again, thanks for the info! But I have made the decision to try the 3065 and see what I get if it's not what I want then it's not what I want and I'll have to try something else. To each their own right? That's the way I see it, not everyone drives the same either. You could build the same car to have the same exact equipment and have it measured to .00001 of the specs and still have a variances between the two drivers, thus making everyone have their own "unique" build. My belief... heh LOL.

Sorry to have you all arguing... that wasn't my intension at all.
 
Definitely wasn't much of an argument. If your intentions are to primarily use this vehicle on the street then the 3065 was specifically designed for that. The turbos are literally cousins, same compressor but what varies are the turbines and thus the 3065 has a lwoer power band range that allows the turbo to be increasingly responsive on the street mean while the 3582 is built for track duty and top end naturally sacrificing down low.

If ever you decide that you want more top end, you wont even need to spend the out outrageous amount of money it'll take to move to a T3 3582 but instead you can send your 3065 into FP and they can convert it to an HTA3082 which will out spool the 3065 and make more power than the 3582 all on the FP bolt on housing with nothing else needed to change.

Its a win win situation. The FP3065 allows the setup to grow with you where as you will have to bare the lack luster street performance of the 3582 while you "wait" definitely not the wise path to take. Thats besides the fact you can put together an FP3065 setup for a lot cheaper than a T3 3582. That money can go into other areas of the car such as comfort or performance. The difference between a much more stout engine build or trans upgrade.

You don't even have to take my word for it. A simple search of any DSM, Evo, GVR4 or similar boards will all show similar insight.
 
The one gripe that many guys have with the 3065 is it's smallish 30R turbine...they seem to feel the turbine is too much of a restriction to allow the 35R compressor to breathe at it's potential, but apparently FP has remedied this with a very well-designed DSM bolt-on turbine housing. I've seen info which proves the FP DSM bolt-on housing can outflow a .63 a/r Garrett T3 turbine housing when comparing turbos with the same turbine wheel, and that is damn impressive. The FP 3065's turbine housing is so well-designed that it makes up for airflow lost due through a small turbine wheel.

If you're a stroker and shopping for a FP turbo, I'd probably choose the DSM82 and never look back. Strokers generally contain a great deal of extra exhaust energy that the 30R turbine may not be able to handle at boost levels needed to make the 35R compressor work properly no matter what turbine housing is on the turbo, especially strokers with high compression. It's just not worth finding out the hard way, being dissatisfied, and attempting to sell a used ball-bearing turbo at a great loss just to get what you probably should have bought in the first place.

On a 2.0, especially one that is a relatively new build, you're going to be fine with the 3065. This will allow you to grow into your goal as you're not going to make 600whp overnight, and you won't be disappointed with the spool while growing into your goal as you would with the 35R.



Choosing the right turbo is so difficult with all of the brands, sizes, and housing choices available today. You have to first get a horsepower number in mind, then think about how much boost and what type of fuel you're planning on running to meet your goal...this is going to determine which compressor is right for you. Next step would be to select which manifold and wastegate setup you want to run, then look at all the available turbos in the airflow categories you're shopping for- remembering that a good rule of thumb is 10 lb/min = 100hp on well-tuned DSM's. Compare price, fitment, spool, total airflow production, durability/reliability, and product support of all the models...then weigh the pros and cons of each model and make your selection based on the unit which stands out in a category that best-suits your requirement.
 
^ Exactly, very good info from our resident turbo guru. Nothing else need be said.
 
Thanks for the input Justin! And to answer your question from earlier TSimage, my goals for the car are about 500 HP on a 6 bolt 2.0 stage 2 build by MAP. Wiseco HD's on Mahle rods I believe. Some headwork and all other supporting mods is the plan.
 
The one gripe that many guys have with the 3065 is it's smallish 30R turbine...they seem to feel the turbine is too much of a restriction to allow the 35R compressor to breathe at it's potential, but apparently FP has remedied this with a very well-designed DSM bolt-on turbine housing. I've seen info which proves the FP DSM bolt-on housing can outflow a .63 a/r Garrett T3 turbine housing when comparing turbos with the same turbine wheel, and that is damn impressive. The FP 3065's turbine housing is so well-designed that it makes up for airflow lost due through a small turbine wheel.

If you're a stroker and shopping for a FP turbo, I'd probably choose the DSM82 and never look back. Strokers generally contain a great deal of extra exhaust energy that the 30R turbine may not be able to handle at boost levels needed to make the 35R compressor work properly no matter what turbine housing is on the turbo, especially strokers with high compression. It's just not worth finding out the hard way, being dissatisfied, and attempting to sell a used ball-bearing turbo at a great loss just to get what you probably should have bought in the first place.

On a 2.0, especially one that is a relatively new build, you're going to be fine with the 3065. This will allow you to grow into your goal as you're not going to make 600whp overnight, and you won't be disappointed with the spool while growing into your goal as you would with the 35R.



Choosing the right turbo is so difficult with all of the brands, sizes, and housing choices available today. You have to first get a horsepower number in mind, then think about how much boost and what type of fuel you're planning on running to meet your goal...this is going to determine which compressor is right for you. Next step would be to select which manifold and wastegate setup you want to run, then look at all the available turbos in the airflow categories you're shopping for- remembering that a good rule of thumb is 10 lb/min = 100hp on well-tuned DSM's. Compare price, fitment, spool, total airflow production, durability/reliability, and product support of all the models...then weigh the pros and cons of each model and make your selection based on the unit which stands out in a category that best-suits your requirement.


With this being said, being well knowledgeable in turbos, what would I be able to get out of the 3065 with pump gas (91-93 octane), and possibly a higher compression ratio (9:1)? Just a rough guess, as you and everyone else in this thread (you summing it all up for the most part) have given me a consolidated description of what I need to do to achieve my goals , to what you think I could get out of it?
 
Here's a quote from another site in reference to the HTA version of both turbos;
I talked to Fp today, and I asked about an hta version of the 3065, and I was told that the dsm82hta has been dyno tested againts the 3065 and spooled faster, and made much more torque. I was told that in the dsm gt30 housing that I would be looking at about 4-4300rpm for full boost depending on what gear I am in. Also Fp mentioned that if I were to be racing a 3065 car and I had the 3582hta that I would dominate, even at the same boost levels. As of now, I think that Fp talked me into getting the DSM82hta over the DSM76hta. I really look forward to getting this turbo and also at some point swithcing over to e85 to really open the can of worms with the 3582!
 
the fp 3052 flows 52 lbs/min

with that being said its a completely different can of worms

although its said to be a GREAT pump gas turbo
 
With this being said, being well knowledgeable in turbos, what would I be able to get out of the 3065 with pump gas (91-93 octane), and possibly a higher compression ratio (9:1)? Just a rough guess, as you and everyone else in this thread (you summing it all up for the most part) have given me a consolidated description of what I need to do to achieve my goals , to what you think I could get out of it?
The 9.0:1 compression is going to generate a lot of heat because of the combustion energy produced- with pump gas you're going to have a tough time fighting knock unless you look into meth injection. You may run into incurable knock with as little as 22-25psi.

The 30R turbine of the FP3065 is only going to add backpressure, keeping more heat in the manifold and raising the chance of getting knock even more. If you really want to push a high-compression pump gas DSM, you need a turbo with a large turbine wheel to allow the engine to breathe. In steps the 35R variants.
So what about the fp 3052 is that a whole other can of worms?
Off-the shelf GT3076R with FP's DSM bolt-on turbine housing. Quicker spool, less airflow than the 3065.
 
The 9.0:1 compression is going to generate a lot of heat because of the combustion energy produced- with pump gas you're going to have a tough time fighting knock unless you look into meth injection. You may run into incurable knock with as little as 22-25psi.

The 30R turbine of the FP3065 is only going to add backpressure, keeping more heat in the manifold and raising the chance of getting knock even more. If you really want to push a high-compression pump gas DSM, you need a turbo with a large turbine wheel to allow the engine to breathe. In steps the 35R variants.

Off-the shelf GT3076R with FP's DSM bolt-on turbine housing. Quicker spool, less airflow than the 3065.

So stock compression, 8.5:1 (if I'm not mistaken), is the best way to rock this one. Good stuff. Much appreciated.
 
I currently have a 3065 and all I can say is that on gas/meth on modest 25psi on street is plenty to give most a serious ego crush. I havent had the opportunity to drive with race gas at the track but all I can say is that this thing spools instantly and the SOUND is phenomenal. It not only will throw you back into your seat but as I mentioned sounds incredible. Ive been in other bigger set ups but on street almost useless unless you intend to drive around with race gas to and from work. I use meth as a safety net more than anything. Def consider this turbo. You will not regret it.
 
I bet the 3052 would make a very quick spooling 500hp street turbo.

500hp at the crank, sure. My FP3052 setup flows pretty well and it's nowhere near 500whp on pump gas. Of all the 3052 setups i've read about, i've only seen one that made over 500whp on nothing but 93 octane. Realistically you're not going to make 500whp on a 3052 without race gas/E85.
 
OK, i read everything and I am still on a toss up. I am building a street/ strip car with as much power as I can get out of her. Buscher stage 3 block 9:1 Compression. Curt Brown Head, Kelford 272s, Shep stage 4 trans, shep Tcase. JMF drag manifold, 4 bolt rear end dss axles front and rear and driveshafts ETC 2150 Injectors ETC e-85 with buschur tunned.. I want a HTA turbo. Was leaning more towards the 35R, but not so sure now, sorry for jacking the thread. Thoughts. This is my first dsm build
 
OK, i read everything and I am still on a toss up. I am building a street/ strip car with as much power as I can get out of her. Buscher stage 3 block 9:1 Compression. Curt Brown Head, Kelford 272s, Shep stage 4 trans, shep Tcase. JMF drag manifold, 4 bolt rear end dss axles front and rear and driveshafts ETC 2150 Injectors ETC e-85 with buschur tunned.. I want a HTA turbo. Was leaning more towards the 35R, but not so sure now, sorry for jacking the thread. Thoughts. This is my first dsm build

An HTA3582 will work great in your situation. If you want more spool drop down to a HTA3082... Feom the current testing however the new CEA PTE 6262 DBB will out perform either turbo for quite a bit less. Then again you are moving away from a Garrett... The HTAs will cost you roughly $1800 and the PTE around $1500. Many shops run deals so you can see either one for a few bucks less but they are pricey for sure. Sounds like you're just ready to throw money at your build as is so I say go for it. IF you are runnign E85 9:1 is way too low and the 272 Kelfords are too small. Change your build to the 280Kelfords and no less than a 10.5 compression wiseco HD piston along with a nice set of rods with L19 hardware and that is a single digit car all day long, and reliable.

Either way it goes, you'll bee shopping for a new transmission shortly. LOL

When I see street/strip then I prefer to see a stroker motor being considered. The 2.0 will take you farther at the track a majority of the time but on the street a stroker is wonderful. Going to a 2.3 also changes your turbo options. I believe one of the ultimate setups would be a HTA3586 BUT the new PTE6266 dbbhas also proven it will wipe the floor with that turbo as well.

There are lots of options but until you have a definite goal then you're just throwing money around.
 
So stock compression, 8.5:1 (if I'm not mistaken), is the best way to rock this one. Good stuff. Much appreciated.
You have to consider that the 3065 was designed around getting big performance from a stock block platform, just as many of the best-performing turbos in a certain size housing are designed to work with stock engines and bolt-ons. Forced Performance is not likely to design and fab a turbo strictly for 9.0:1+ compression or 2.3/2.4 strokers only simply because they're cutting out the majority of their customer base.

Now obviously once you reach a certain turbo size that all goes out the window because you're going to need a built engine just to get them to work properly....for example, you wouldn't throw a 3794 on a stock-block 1G and expect magical things to happen at just 20psi.

I think if you're staying with a 2.0 at stock compression ratios you'll love what the 3065 will do for you.

I bet the 3052 would make a very quick spooling 500hp street turbo.
This seems like it would work well on paper (52 lb/min = around 520hp), but as some have said above this post the results just aren't there on pump gas. Could be the compressor design as we know the turbine and turbine housing combo from this turbo work great on the 3065.


OK, i read everything and I am still on a toss up. I am building a street/ strip car with as much power as I can get out of her. Buscher stage 3 block 9:1 Compression. Curt Brown Head, Kelford 272s, Shep stage 4 trans, shep Tcase. JMF drag manifold, 4 bolt rear end dss axles front and rear and driveshafts ETC 2150 Injectors ETC e-85 with buschur tunned.. I want a HTA turbo. Was leaning more towards the 35R, but not so sure now, sorry for jacking the thread. Thoughts. This is my first dsm build
Your head build and intake manifold are going to favor an engine that revs....and in order to keep the horsepower numbers up all the way to 9K rpms you'll want the 35R's larger turbine. Turbine housing choice will depend on what manifold you're looking to run, but I say you'll want a 3582 or 3586 over the 3065.
 
The motor is already built and in the car. I am just shopping for turbo selection now. If I had to put a goal out there I would like to see 700HP I have the L19 hardware on everything. As for exhaust manifold goes, I was looking at the shearer fabrications manifold. with a tial MVR wastegate. The 35R turbo was what I was thinking but I will look into the pte 6262 as well.
 
You have to consider that the 3065 was designed around getting big performance from a stock block platform, just as many of the best-performing turbos in a certain size housing are designed to work with stock engines and bolt-ons. Forced Performance is not likely to design and fab a turbo strictly for 9.0:1+ compression or 2.3/2.4 strokers only simply because they're cutting out the majority of their customer base.

Now obviously once you reach a certain turbo size that all goes out the window because you're going to need a built engine just to get them to work properly....for example, you wouldn't throw a 3794 on a stock-block 1G and expect magical things to happen at just 20psi.

I think if you're staying with a 2.0 at stock compression ratios you'll love what the 3065 will do for you.

Now with that being said, although it may seem obvious but just for confirmation, it'd still be best to upgrade or at least replace and rebuild the internals for them to run efficiently with the 3065 yes? Possibly forged internals to be on the safe side of things?
 
Now with that being said, although it may seem obvious but just for confirmation, it'd still be best to upgrade or at least replace and rebuild the internals for them to run efficiently with the 3065 yes? Possibly forged internals to be on the safe side of things?


Its always going to be safer but even so on pump I would say that on a 6bolt you'd be absolutely fine.. 7 bolt and the thinner rods however will be reaching their limits but all in all you can definitely still have fun with that bad boy while you save up.:thumb:
 
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