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Valve Stem seals OR Turbo Seals!?

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sTYLEZTA

Probationary Member
11
0
Mar 22, 2011
Bucks County, Pennsylvania
Just bought my first dsm. its a 1995 eagle Talon tsi AWD. Has a 6 bolt bottom end with a 2g top end. If you need to know more about the mods let me know! I can provide a complete list.

my problem: I start the car up. NO SMOKE. idle for 30 seconds it starts to smoke. Has a SLIGHT bluish hue. let it warm up. hold revs at 3g's. let off. It will start to smoke further and even more blue.

I am wondering valve seals or turbo seals? I am personally thinking turbo seals but want some other input! Thanks!
 
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Had any shaft play at all? Does it change if the car is warmed up or not?
 
performed a compression check. all cylinders are 140-150. Seems slightly low but nothing to horrible. turbo has minimal shaft play. Ill add more info about the car:

6 bolt bottom end
2g top end
evo3 big 16g turbo
extreme psi feed line kit and return
greddy timing belt
HKS 272's
ferrera exhaust and intake valves
Brian crower springs and lifters
ARP head studs
cometic HG
680cc injectors
fuel lab AFPR kit
fidanza flywheel
act street/strip clutch
4 spider tranny rebuild

i have a receipt for valve stem seals as well. i assume they where put in but i can't be 100% sure. i bought this car as is. It is running off a keydiver ecu with a safc neo for fine tuning.

I will be performing a leakdown test monday. What you all think so far?
 
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I would lean towards the turbo but could be bad piston rings to. Valve seals will usely only smoke on intital startup after a cold soak.

+1

bad valve stems seals will usually smoke at startup especially when the vehicle has been sitting - for example over night.

I am leaning towards the turbo seals, does it smoke more when the car goes into boost?
 
i do not notice the smoke while driving in boost honestly. it just seems to be more of an idle thing. the smoke will get worse say if i drive it down the street then come back and let it idle then it was previously to driving it. I am thinking its turbo as well.
 
My 92 was smoking at idle, turbo had horrible play. Still puffed at idle after replacing with a good one. I had oil seeping out of the exhaust gasket also. Changed the seals and no more smoke at idle. Wish it had been the turbo LOL.
 
Its most likely the turbo since you wont see the smoke as much when your driving. 2nd if it is the valves you would see them on initial startup and no load( non driving just reving) .
 
I'm having a similar problem. when i start it up oil pressure is where it should be and no smoke. after it warms up the oil pressure drops and it smokes at idle and under acceleration. I've been bouncing back and forth between valve seals and turbo. But which one would cause the loss of oil pressure and blue smoke when warm?
 
Valve seals smoke usually at cold start up and slightly under boost. After a cold start, theres a 10 sec pause until the oil gets up there and it starts smoking. My car was spitting clouds and clouds of oil and when it warmed it would stop. It would still burn oil while driving, but it was unnoticeable. It had 250k on the engine at the time.
 
Do a boost leak test from the turbo inlet and if there's lots of air coming out of the crankcase breather (which it sounds like there will be) then move the boost leak tester up to the throttle body elbow. If there's still the same amount of air coming out of the crankcase breather then it's your valve seals, if there's no air coming out when you test from the TB then it's your turbo.
 
+1

bad valve stems seals will usually smoke at startup especially when the vehicle has been sitting - for example over night.

I am leaning towards the turbo seals, does it smoke more when the car goes into boost?

x2...
 
UPDATED!!!!!

So i took off the exhaust manifold and looked down into the turbo. Bone dry. Took off the j pipe. its clean. Took off the intake, dry. Hmm.... so i did some investigating and decided to just take the head off it and inspect the valves and guides... yea.. Took the head to Lorenzo Fast Flow Cylinder Heads in pendal, PA. pretty much every exhaust valve had play which was causing the seals to leak, along with possible poorer compression and crappy leakdown results. You could visually look in the exhaust ports and see the oil in them LOL. Had the head cut for straightness, complete valve job and bronze valve guides put in it along with hot tanked. Picked up a new fel pro head gasket using the head studs already on the engine, torqued 30-60-90 in the appropriate procedure.

Get it all back together, start it up, and it INSTANTLY shuts off. Timing is dead on. The car will keep starting over and over but just keeps instantly shutting off. I have a p1300 code. Pulled a plug, they are soaked. Im assuming something is cutting spark. i know i have CAS installed properly (its ON the intake cam). Im leaning towards the ecu just taking a crap on me or a bad CAS. Really hoping cas.

Sorry for wall of text, What you all think!?

anyone???
 
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