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Pin Hole in Oil Pan. What to patch with?

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Artago

15+ Year Contributor
2,090
26
Nov 30, 2006
North Vancouver, BC_Canada
Hi all,

I have a tiny pin hole in my oil pan next to my welded -12AN fitting. The hole is around the weld and causing a slow oil leak.

I'd like to sand it down and patch it with something. I was thinking of using JB weld but I wanted to know if anyone knew of a product (that I can find in any local auto parts store) that would be more suited for the repair.

Please advise as to what product you would recommend.

Thanks,

Tom
 
pull the pan and have it welded.

over time the expoies will crack and flake .
 
jb weld or quick steal just clean the area and scuff it up a bit

i've used that quick steal on everything from gas tanks to radiator leaks carburetors etc...
 
pull the pan and have it welded.

over time the expoies will crack and flake .

I've removed and re-installed the oil pan 3 times in the past 3 days (don't ask). Fresh synthetic oil each time. So I'm getting a by tired of doing it. :(

I'll fix the welds next time I take it off. I'm just looking for a quick fix until I can do a proper fix. This is my DD.

Tom
 
i had a crack at the bend where the gasket goes and it went along that bend and a bit down the side of the oil pan.. was about 2inches long.. i used JB Weld! no problem so far!

if you use jb weld MAKE SURE you strip the paint around the crack very well, sand it even better, and scuff it up with some 200 grit or less for the jb weld to have a good place to bond to! Make sure you go well over the edge of the crack but thin the layers out the further you go. let it dry sand it down with some 300 grit or finer! and reapply some if needed! then sand again with fine sand paper spray some primer and paint!! i did mine well over a year ago and have yet to have any issues!

ALTHO your best bet is to just get a new oil pan or weld it but if you dont have a welder the price to weld the oil pan might get up there. BUT welding would be overall better than jb weld if its welded correctly!

good luck

shawn
 
jb weld or quick steal just clean the area and scuff it up a bit

i've used that quick steal on everything from gas tanks to radiator leaks carburetors etc...

Thanks, I'll see if I can find it locally.

Tom

i had a crack at the bend where the gasket goes and it went along that bend and a bit down the side of the oil pan.. was about 2inches long.. i used JB Weld! no problem so far!

if you use jb weld MAKE SURE you strip the paint around the crack very well, sand it even better, and scuff it up with some 200 grit or less for the jb weld to have a good place to bond to! Make sure you go well over the edge of the crack but thin the layers out the further you go. let it dry sand it down with some 300 grit or finer! and reapply some if needed! then sand again with fine sand paper spray some primer and paint!! i did mine well over a year ago and have yet to have any issues!

ALTHO your best bet is to just get a new oil pan or weld it but if you dont have a welder the price to weld the oil pan might get up there. BUT welding would be overall better than jb weld if its welded correctly!

good luck

shawn

Awesome, thanks SHAWN. Good to hear that it's holding. I was reluctant to use JB weld for fear of it not sealing (and wasting my time).

Cheers,

Tom
 
I've ran into the exact same issue on an old pan of mine and I can tell you that JB Weld did not work for me. Unless you can get it immaculantly clean, it wont hold well enough to prevent oil from getting by. I too would recommend correcting it with a welder.

Dang. Not what I wanted to hear :(

Can I weld it with the pan still on the car? Or would that fry some electronics (like the ECU)?

Tom
 
Dang. Not what I wanted to hear :(

Can I weld it with the pan still on the car? Or would that fry some electronics (like the ECU)?

Tom
You might be able to, but you'd have a hard time getting it clean enough to weld to it if it's still on the car and full of oil.
 
you will be safe with the jb weld just make sure you prep it right, its not like its under alot of pressure or anything....
 
How about fixing something like this? Can I just patch it with some scrap metal? Or just find a used OEM? I'm thinking it would just be easier and ease-of-mind to get another one.


http://img40.imageshack.us/img40/3807/1001275n.jpg

That looks like it is easily fixable with a welder. Of course, it would have to come off the car and be throughly cleaned first. If it were me and if it's for a 6-bolt, I'd just replace the pan. 6-bolt pans are a dime-a-dozen. What went through it?
 
Take it to a welding shop and they can put a spot of bronze on it. And they should be able to do that bronzing with the pan on the motor...seen that done before if it's a small pinhole leak as you mentioned...
 
Ok so I took a look at it and the hole is in a tough spot to weld which is made tougher by leaving it on the car.

So I dropped the pan again. To those of you keeping count, this would be the 4th time in a week.

Going to clean it up, grind, sand and prep it. Then I'll take it to a muffler shop because my arc welder sucks the big one.

Once it's welded I'm going to sand it again and JB weld the whole weld all the way around for extra insurance because I don't want to do this a 5th time.

I'll keep you updated and I'll snap some pics when it's done.

Going to mark this thread as resolved. Cheers everyone and thanks for the help.

Tom
 
I feel your pain, Tom. I went through 4 pans in 2 weeks last summer. I got pretty quick at swapping them, but my patience was spent by the time I was finished. And I haven't had to touch it since, so I'm happy.

Good luck getting yours to seal. :thumb:

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^ Thanks Paul. I've lost patience with this as well.

I've gotten oil pan swaps down to an art. Takes me 5 hours to disassemble everything remove the pan and reassemble it all again.

Hey, I got a question for you. Oil pan.... gasket or no gasket?

If gasket, then what type? OEM (cork) or rubber?

Tom
 
No gasket. Black or silver RTV is the only way to go.

I used Black RTV but I have found one flaw to it. It's a bi*** to remove the pan because you have to fillet around the RTV seal to remove the pan.

Is there any trick to getting the pan to un-stick from the block when using RTV?
 
I used Black RTV but I have found one flaw to it. It's a bi*** to remove the pan because you have to fillet around the RTV seal to remove the pan.

Is there any trick to getting the pan to un-stick from the block when using RTV?
Maybe try using silver instead? In retrospect, I've never used anything other than silver RTV on the pan, and I've never struggled too much trying to remove it. I know the black works well with oil, but maybe it also has more of a firm/sticky grip than the silver? I'm not sure there...
 
Maybe try using silver instead? In retrospect, I've never used anything other than silver RTV on the pan, and I've never struggled too much trying to remove it. I know the black works well with oil, but maybe it also has more of a firm/sticky grip than the silver? I'm not sure there...

Black holds like super glue. I takes about 1 hour to fillet about 60% around. Then I had to wedge and pry using all of my body weight (all 205 lbs of it). Sufficed to say, it's a bi***.

I'll give silver a shot.
 
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