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Whats Wrong with my car? VIDEO

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DSMnOOb00

15+ Year Contributor
903
4
Apr 29, 2006
FRESNO, California
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first it has a tough time getting started and gives out a LOUD squeek before it fires up, and if i rev too high it dies...

help! :confused:
 
WOW, seriously sorry for calling it a serp belt its clearly a v-belt if you want to get technical...Alot of people refer to them as serp belts though as you will see if you start reading more. tenn-gsx I completely agree with you, crankwalk gets thrown out there way to much, there are very few actual cases compared to the number of 7 bolts and 6 bolts for that matter.

Dsm4lyfe12 you might want to check your numbers. $50-100 for a boost leak tester from boostpro.net, psh try $12-20.
The muffler may be annoying but there is no possible way that it is a cause of your dying problems.
 
There are no sepentines in these motors. Its a bronze starter sleve bushing, or another worn belt that makes the noise. As i brought up the problem of the "ticking" it sounds like the good rod knock on a 7 bolt, as i said before check the crank for "play", oil levels, filters ect. Worse comes to worse if you dont know what your doing(not in a rude way) just have a trusted mechanic look it at so they dont get you putting parts in your car that you dont need. Also, to those who think its a lifter tick, ill send you a video of a lifter and a rod knock or a bearing . This most definitely sounds a little bit louder then a lifter or even a exaust leak wouldnt make that loud of a clicking that far in the back..

Dsmnoob- The exaust leak in your car could be making your car dieing. My old car has a hole in the headers and would die if rev'd to high, on a turbo car that runs off of exaust fumes might be more dependant on a closed exaust.
1. Boost leak check.
50-100-$http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...-boost-leak-test-how-boostpro-net-tester.html
5-10 at home depo-http://www.vfaq.com/mods/ICtester.html
2. Check all belts for cracks, tears, or the looseness of the belts(except the timing which is dependant on where the motor sits)
http://home.comcast.net/~tnunley/plenum_gasket/cracked belt.jpg
3.Replace the muffler(Get done for cheap at a shop)
4.Maintenance (Oil filter, fuel filter, oil, belts if needed, plugs, and wires)
5.Get your motor, compression tested(for free) and as i said before a good mechanic to check for crank walk and the ticking noise so people on here can get some peice of mind.

Hope that helps! Best of luck
Dan

perhaps i could be rod knocking, but on the other side , when my rods where knocking the ticking sound was alot faster
 
I dont understand why my starter is going out again, it was just replaced.. I'm starting to concider doing the 3g lifters and springs to the head besides the belts... any thoughts on this?

dude, check your spark wires
IF ITS IN THE CORRECT POSISTION TOO.

I hope im right :D

Good luck !


im sure they are in the correct position but I might have it wrong, anyone got any pics or can tell me the right position for spark wires?

WOW, seriously sorry for calling it a serp belt its clearly a v-belt if you want to get technical...Alot of people refer to them as serp belts though as you will see if you start reading more. tenn-gsx I completely agree with you, crankwalk gets thrown out there way to much, there are very few actual cases compared to the number of 7 bolts and 6 bolts for that matter.

Dsm4lyfe12 you might want to check your numbers. $50-100 for a boost leak tester from boostpro.net, psh try $12-20.
The muffler may be annoying but there is no possible way that it is a cause of your dying problems.


I went to boostpro.net, looks great but witch option would work best for me? send me the link and I'm buy it asap!! thanks
 
If you have an aftermarket boost gauge either will work, the gauge is a little more convenient but it will read the same as your aftermarket boost gauge will. If you just have the stock boost gauge your going to want to buy the one with the gauge. Good luck, let us know how it goes!:D
 
I dont understand why my starter is going out again, it was just replaced.. I'm starting to concider doing the 3g lifters and springs to the head besides the belts... any thoughts on this?




im sure they are in the correct position but I might have it wrong, anyone got any pics or can tell me the right position for spark wires?




I went to boostpro.net, looks great but witch option would work best for me? send me the link and I'm buy it asap!! thanks

The order is at the botton of the ignition coil

its 4 - 1 - 2 - 3 :D

hope it helps
 
So I just decided to replace all my cuplers and clamps with tclamps and silicone cuplers... I have the Dejon tool jpip with the dejon tool upper and lower piping to my stock smic with greddy bov.

what size cuplers do i need as well as clamps?

my cars at home and I want to order right now LOL

thanks guys
 
nice car looks like mine LOL. My car would die when i would rev it up like that, Fixed that by plugging off all the vacuum leaks. But that's no lifter ticking, I swear i think your motor is knocking.
 
I did check for slack in the timing belt, I couldn't turn the gears when I pulled it but there was give when I pushed down on the belt inbetween the gears... Is that slack normal?

And now I'm having questions about my spark plug order... Someone said it was 4123 but is that from left to right going to the valve cover? I got mine 1342
 
On the valve cover I'm going 1432 to the coil pack

1234 - coil pack
1432 - valve cover

I'm using the order from the coil pack above the fuel rail as the order refreance.
so the first spark plug on the cover is going to the first position on the coil pack
and the last spark plug wire is going to the 2nd position on the coil pack


Idk if that makes sense?
 
Got it, car fires up! Thanks, I was checking to make sure the order was right...
But the car still has that squeek and idle issue. I think I'm just going to get my mechanic buddy to stop by.. Some people say it's the lifters, others say its eaither rod knock or crankwalk... I was hoping it was just the plugs LOL
 
Dont think crankwalk man, trust me, if you dont get you a nice stiff bar stick it on the crank pulley and try to move that bad boy :)
also and i beg you please get back with the results on what it is, because mine is making the same exact sound literally and i havent gotten the chance to look at it and my lifters come in monday. It'd be nice to know what yours is doing, but good luck bud have fun.
 
I was looking at my air filter and decided to wash it because its crazy filthy, I found the BCS under it, its still connected to the cable altho the lines have been removed and rerouted for the BCS mod.. would this cause any idle issues?

also If I replace my lifters with 3g lifters is there anything else I should replace while I'm doing the lifters?
 
I would do a commpression test to see if there is any blowby or anything which can point to any damage in the bottom end and also will diagnose valves. if it only has low compression on one cylinder the problem is probly only with that one like bad spring or bad ring or something lifter etc. but if its low accross the board i would start looking at timing and see if it threw timing off a hair check your plugs damag and stuff. there is no spell check on here huh? LOL but ya in my opion engine is most important thing. do engine tests first, these issues are most expensive and can be a deciding factor in keeping a car. good luck
 
thats lifter tick, its about 7 times a second, if it were rod knock your idle would only be at around 450, so its not that. This is how my lifter tick was.
rod knock hits twice, once on the way up, and then down, it also has a way more violent clunky reverberated sound through the car. You can just bleed your lifter one at a time, and figure out why your oil gauge wont rise, thats bad.
 
well I don't know if this has been said .. I didn't read all the replies .. but Even though I'm sure you are recircing ... I seriously swear I hear some narly ass compressor surging
 
well I don't know if this has been said .. I didn't read all the replies .. but Even though I'm sure you are recircing ... I seriously swear I hear some narly ass compressor surging

I was surging before, when I installed the 3" down pipe with 3" cat and a slow boy ported manifold I kept getting surge so I had the o2 housing and the turbo flapper/outlet ported because I was running the 16g turbo... so that not only cured my boost creep but got rid of Any surgeing...
 
thats lifter tick, its about 7 times a second, if it were rod knock your idle would only be at around 450, so its not that. This is how my lifter tick was.
rod knock hits twice, once on the way up, and then down, it also has a way more violent clunky reverberated sound through the car. You can just bleed your lifter one at a time, and figure out why your oil gauge wont rise, thats bad.

I keep hearing that my oil gauge not moving is a scary thing, what should I Check? Should I get an aftermarket oil gauge?
 
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