The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support Kiggly Racing
Please Support Morrison Fabrication

Ideal Wideband AFR at idle?

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

9!'clipseDOHC

Moderator
4,887
414
Aug 24, 2003
El Paso, Texas
Exactly as the title states. What is the normal or ideal wideband o2 AFR reading when idling at 750 rpms? I searched but got nothing. On my turbo swap, fresh rebuild (profile is current), brand new AEM wideband installed on the downpipe, after the bend, before the flex. Super lean with factory injectors, 14b, no tuning device at idle.

AFPR is set at 37 with the hose off
Timing is 5 BTDC
Idle is 750-800
AFR is 17 to ---

Is this good or bad? When I drive the AFR falls, haven't been WOT or even over 2500 rpms yet. I need the rest of my exhaust before I can take it on the roads.
 
Good. Is the narrowband cycling?

If the wideband isn't tracking it as the ECU dithers the AFR to cause the NB to switch then you might have a leak between the two or drawing fresh air in the unfinished exhaust and throwing the reading off.
 
How would I tell if the narrowband is cycling?

The exhaust ends at the downpipe for the moment, I hadn't thought about that making it read lean. Hmm. I hope to have the rest of the exhaust by the end of the week.
 
do you have the gauge set right there's a little dial on the back of the gauge that they swear the set on lambda before the leave the factory, but i would double check it with your owners manual. If that doesn't work i would check your ignition timing probably advanced to much.
 
With my EMS, I have to keep the idle between 13.4-13.9 AFR. Having the 272's, 14.7 while idling will cause it to surge. So I had to richen it up a pinch and turn the idle up to about 950.

Definately check for exhaust leaks, air could easily be back feeding into your open downpipe giving leaner-than-normal readings.
 
Thanks for all the numbers. I must have an exhaust leak. I got the rest of the exhaust bolted up and i'm still getting --- at idle. Driving everything is good, high 14's/low 15's cruising. High 12's/low 13's boosting (set at factory boost, about 11 psi, while I break the engine in). But when I idle or am off the gas, high 17's and then off the gauge.

I have a 2g o2 housing feeding into a 3" punishment racing downpipe, I think the leak is there because I can't get a socket on the nuts. I'll have to work with it some more.
 
had the same issue and it was exhaust leak at the o2 housing and the downpipe.
 
I had a similar leak there also. I ended up switching the 19mm nuts to 17mm with the same threads inside so I could get a socket on them. They haven't backed off yet.

I was just told the same thing today by the guy who built my block. Good advice! Do you remember the thread size? Also where did you find the nuts?
 
I think the leak is there because I can't get a socket on the nuts. I'll have to work with it some more.

Here's what I did to solve that problem on my car:


You must be logged in to view this image or video.
[/URL][/IMG]


You must be logged in to view this image or video.
[/URL][/IMG]


Did the grinding on the tips of this crowfoot with a bench grinder and cold water for dunking. Those stock 19mm nuts are super quality if they haven't been rounded or rusted.
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top