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Is my 1g ECU done for?

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poundcake

10+ Year Contributor
33
0
Oct 5, 2008
Bossier city, Louisiana
Ok, so yesterday I installed my new boost guage and checked for boost leaks. I got everything hooked up ok and went down the road for a test drive. After making a u-turn I stepped back on the gas, the cel came on, and noticed it running very rough than right before I made the u-turn. So i stopped turned the car off and checked some connections and got back in the car and started it up again as it started fine and drove back to my house just perfectly and no check engine light. Later on that day I took it out again and the same exact thing happened. This time i didnt turn it off and let it run really sluggishly for about a minute until the cel went off and drove perfectly home. So today i pulled the ECU and i do have some cap leakage. My questions are would the capacitor leakage be the cause of my problem and is this fixable? Will I need to buy a whole new ecu or can I just replace the caps?

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=102598&stc=1&d=1257609056
 

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OOOOOhhh. That looks pretty bad... I'd send it to someone like Steve or Jeff O. at keydiver to fix it. If they can... I'd start looking for a replacement regardless.
 
Use some solvent and/or electronics cleaner and clean up the board. Check for broken traces, solder in the new capacitors and test it out. It's not hard and it will probably solve your problem.
 
Hey thanks for all of your replies. I think im just going to order me a new ecu. the one i got now does look like someone has tampered with it before and i want to know that that isnt a problem anymore.
 
Clearly that isn't for the car in your profile.

This is what passes for "Professional" rebuilding. That 90 ECU had the capacitors leak wound up in the repair pile at one of the repair farms when the model is how quickly can I make it work well enough to ship it out. They don't worry about failures and returns because they have a stack of them just as good to send out when and if they get a warranty claim. Their little stickers keep prying eyes from seeing the hack job they did to make it work.

It's hard to say from that snippit of the board if this is an EPROM ECU but it would still be questionable as to if it was worth bringing it back to life vs throwing on the parts pile. I can see that the corrosion has also extended to the CPU area so it's likely in need to a complete stripping and rebuild. I've restored worse but the challenge isn't as motivating as it once was.

What car is this for?
 
Clearly that isn't for the car in your profile.

This is what passes for "Professional" rebuilding. That 90 ECU had the capacitors leak wound up in the repair pile at one of the repair farms when the model is how quickly can I make it work well enough to ship it out. They don't worry about failures and returns because they have a stack of them just as good to send out when and if they get a warranty claim. Their little stickers keep prying eyes from seeing the hack job they did to make it work.

It's hard to say from that snippit of the board if this is an EPROM ECU but it would still be questionable as to if it was worth bringing it back to life vs throwing on the parts pile. I can see that the corrosion has also extended to the CPU area so it's likely in need to a complete stripping and rebuild. I've restored worse but the challenge isn't as motivating as it once was.

What car is this for?

sorry for not posting it but its for a 1990 eclipse gsx 5 speed. i dont know how to tell if it is an eprom but the case does have a remanufactured sticker on it.
 
So that would have been in the car originally would have been a MD145903 ECU unless it was a California car in which case it would have been a MD145902.

On the white edge connector there should have been a four digit number printed but many rebuilders wipe it off to mask when the board came out of. For a MD145903 the connector would have said 4478 or 4478A

This is a 90 AWD non-EPROM ECU (ignoring the missing caps in the middle)

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This is a 90 AWD EPROM ECU. Note the 28 pin chip in the top left, that is the EPROM where the software is stored.

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ok i dont think mines an eprom and it also doesnt have the numbers on the white connector as you were mentioning. i was going to order a remanuafactured off of ebay for $200 but they emailed me today and said for the certain model I had to pay $375 which i dont think im going to do. so i dont know what to do now LOL. heres a pic of the whole board
 

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